non-ho flat tappet cam in 95?

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by 95FakeSnake, Dec 6, 2015.

  1. 95FakeSnake

    95FakeSnake New Member

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    I'm not entirely sure what happened with the junk I got, before I got it... upon teardown I discovered it has a flat tappet non-HO/non roller cam & It was wired for a non-HO firing order. It ran like shit- is this why? it bogged, sputtered, but idled great... I got too excited and tore down the motor to the shortblock before I ever got it running decent. (bought it not running) it is a 95 Auto W4HO EEC-IV. (someone swaped in the 5.0, it is a ex v6 car according to VIN)

    If so could I swap in a 351W (non-roller) cam since it has the same firing order as an H.O.?
    I'd really like to just drop a used 5.0 explorer motor in, but having the car moving as inexpensively and easily as possible is the priority. Pushing it in & out of the garage is getting old fast!

    The cost to convert it into a roller/H.O. (need cam/lifters/spider...valve springs, ect) V.S. a used Explorer 5.0 with better GT-40 P heads and Cobra style intake, to me is a wash, just more work to swap motors, but also more HP. (I'd eventually swap the cam in Explorer motor too...)
     
  2. cameron57

    cameron57 Active Member

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    As long as cam firing order is same as block you should be good. Doesnt matter if its roller, or flat tappet as long as you have correct lifters. Roller will be much easier to break in flat tappet not so much.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
     
  3. 95FakeSnake

    95FakeSnake New Member

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    Is it obvious then that is why it was running like shit? I don't know much about how EFI controls work but I've been told that 5.0's are batch fire, and that is why it idled good. My suspicions are that this was a bunch of spare parts thrown together to make a GT clone and throw on craigslist as a GT that needs a tune-up or minor work...I don't care since I got it way cheap.

    Also, couldn't I just swap over the roller cam stuff to this block (it's taped for spider). (If i picked up a used explorer motor)

    I suspect that it is a 90's shortblock from an F-150 or a van...
     
  4. evilcw311

    evilcw311 Most Evil Mod! Staff Member Staff

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    The blocks would be the same. You can switch all gt equipment over to it with no issue.


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  5. 95FakeSnake

    95FakeSnake New Member

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    Basically what I have is a late 80's/90's Longblock from a F-150 or Eseries van with Stock 95 GT intake/mass air/wiring harness & W4HO ECU.
    It was wired for a non-ho firing order because of the flat tappet non-HO cam
    It ran like shit, but idled fine & reved ok when not under load. driving it bogged, sputtered and back fired as I said.
    So the ECU was firing the injectors correct but the cam is the wrong firing order, thus ran like shit. Like I said craigslist special..Lol.

    Does this seem right? (Am I correct)
     
  6. evilcw311

    evilcw311 Most Evil Mod! Staff Member Staff

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    I think it sounds right. Where's adder at........he'd know this better!!!!


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  7. Z06killinsbf

    Z06killinsbf Active Member

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    Yes, so either rewire the injector harness or swap cams
     
  8. 95FakeSnake

    95FakeSnake New Member

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    Thinking about summit cam kit since they are cheap. (35W1 cam for correct firing order...) My car still has the 7.5 rear and stock AODE, so something real tame.

    That cam kit (or similar), gaskets and fluids & some wrench time is the cheapest way to get this thing moving again...

    If & when I swap in a explorer motor I'll swap cams again.
     
  9. kb1982

    kb1982 Active Member

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    As for the batch fire info, that was wrong. They are fully sequeintial. Im running a megasquirt pnp2 standalone ecu in my car which only has two injector driver circuts, so it can only be ran as batch fire. The stock ecm runs the injectors in full sequiential, which makes injector timing more important.
     
  10. 95FakeSnake

    95FakeSnake New Member

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    That makes sense, but why then did my car idle so good? Because of no load?