Ok, so I have been fighting an ongoing issue with my 97 GT since last year. It started at Mustang Week where it would break up and start missing at WOT/above 4500RPM. Lately it has been taking longer to crank, sometimes to the point to where it drains the battery if it's weak from sitting. I just happened to think about the cam/crank sensors a minute ago so I pulled the cam sensor and found oil all in the connector. Pics are included. Could this be the possible cause of my issues? Also I'd like to add that I dropped the tank and inspected the fuel pump, replaced the fuel filter, and replaced the plugs in an attempt to rid the car of this issue and nothing helped. Also, when it cuts out, it doesn't go lean which is why I really don't think it's the fuel pump itself.
Most makes and models will run with cam position. It won't run perfect but should run. Crank now that will keep a car from running. Also look at your injectors I had a set that would leak down after sitting and then the car would have a extended crank I would have to put the throttle to the floor to cut the injectors on start ups.
Guess I'll check the crank sensor tomorrow then. I just remembered that after doing the wire tuck that I forgot to plug the cam sensor in and still was able to crank the car and drive it. Guess I'll cross the cam sensor off the list . If the crank sensor is fine, guess I'll swap in my spare 42# injectors and buy another Aeromotive 340. Thanks for the help!
It's not the 340. I was having issues with mine also I switched it out for a aem 320 ethanol pump and no change. It was my regulator which was a used aeromotive unit. I rebuilt it and all was good. I'm assuming your using the factory rails and regulator. I would look at the injectors. You can pull the rails zip tie the injectors in and key on/off the car to build pressure, no fuel should drip or come out.
Yes the rails/regulator are all stock. No stored codes or anything. But I guess I should add that when I dropped the tank, the strainer had somehow fell off into the tank so the pump was left to filter for itself, so it could have gotten strained.
The timing sprokets are known to crack causing exactly what youre describing. I have yet to experience it myself, but explains why ford moved to a stamped steel version. Although the stamp steel version does exactly the opposite what the cast version does and thats miss shape, wobble/distort, but it dont crack. Cracks lead to failure so get that puppy checked out dood.
I had a similar issue with my car as well, turned out to be an electrical issue. As stated above clean the cam and crank sensors with contact cleaner. Then if you haven't done so already, check your plug and wire connections, mine were dry, added some dielectric grease and all was good. Hope you figure it out soon, these types of problems suck.:thumbsup:
Well I finally got a fuel pressure gauge on the car today. I couldn't believe what I saw. It would build about 15psi when the key was turned, then within three seconds of the key being turned on the pressure would be zero. I really don't see how this car ran for an entire year like this. At idle the psi was 35 which baffled me. So I swapped the injectors out first and nothing changed. Then I said screw it and dropped the tank and swapped out the 340 for another 340 that I bought. Problem solved! It holds 35psi when the key is turned and doesn't leak down. Finally, I can hit boost after a year of procrastinating.
Crap like this kills me! We expect new purchased parts to perform as should only to find(lots of head scratching a year later) they dont. Pisses me off Im glad you figured it out mang!
That's about how long mine lasted. I would say it barely made it through an oil change, maybe 3500 miles.
