Oil pan gasket replacement

[Daryl]

Next up: try to figure out where leak/seeping is coming from.
even after changing the oil and filter and wiping the vicinity down thoroughly, I noticed a bit of seepage of oil along the sides of the oil pan and back a bit. After reviewing “how to” videos online, I purchased a Fel-pro oil pan gasket and feel good about replacing it. My one key question after looking is the little brace that attaches across the rear of the K member. It would appear that taking one side bolt out and rotating the brace out of the way will give just enough room to R&R the gasket(which is how I saw it done on a couple videos). I will of course clean the entire bottom end of the engine to spot any remaining leaks (hopefully NONE!), replace the oil to full and check for leaks after first drive, 100 miles later and of course at the next oil change interval (5k). Oh, anyone know the proper torque specs for the oil pan bolts off the top of their head?

wish me luck!

oh, might have found it. Can anyone confirm/deny the following:
110-144 inch lbs, or 1st step: 7-9 ft lbs, 2nd step: 10-13 ft lbs.

 

[evilcw311]

Next up: try to figure out where leak/seeping is coming from.
even after changing the oil and filter and wiping the vicinity down thoroughly, I noticed a bit of seepage of oil along the sides of the oil pan and back a bit. After reviewing “how to” videos online, I purchased a Fel-pro oil pan gasket and feel good about replacing it. My one key question after looking is the little brace that attaches across the rear of the K member. It would appear that taking one side bolt out and rotating the brace out of the way will give just enough room to R&R the gasket(which is how I saw it done on a couple videos). I will of course clean the entire bottom end of the engine to spot any remaining leaks (hopefully NONE!), replace the oil to full and check for leaks after first drive, 100 miles later and of course at the next oil change interval (5k). Oh, anyone know the proper torque specs for the oil pan bolts off the top of their head?

wish me luck!

I haven’t tried that on the 5.0 with it in the car. I know it’s possible with the aftermarket tubular k’s but not sure how easy it will be with the big bulky factory K.

Take pics as you go if you can.


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[Daryl]

I guess there’s only one way for me to find out!....(fingers crossed)

 

[evilcw311]

I guess there’s only one way for me to find out!....(fingers crossed)

Good luck my friend!!!!! Your gonna need it!!!

[emoji1696]


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[Chip66]

I did it on an '89 5.0 many years ago. Same challenge.

I was changing the motor mounts at the same time so I lifted the motor slightly and pulled the pan completely out the backside.

The Felpro gasket comes with 4 plastic dowel pins to guide the gasket and pan on. They also hold the pan in place while putting the other bolts in. It makes easy work of the install.

It's also a good time to inspect cylinder walls and bearing condition.

 

[Adfalenski]

Use lots of brake cleaner spray to clean surfaces before reassembly. After reassembly, use more brake cleaner spray to remove any residual oil from the pan and block surfaces. This will make it easier in the future to spot where any oil leaks are starting.

there is also a UV dye available that mixes with oil that can be added to the engine crankcase oil. If you develop an oil leak, you can shine a UV flashlight on the engine and easily trace where the oil leak is coming from.

 

[Daryl]

Great info everyone, thanks! After watching the “how to” video I found and confirming same gasket, I’m going to give it a try if I can get an extra set of hands to help. Preferably a friend with SOME mechanical skills and small hands!!

And yes, I intend to blast the snot out of the pan and adjacent area with brake cleaner. Want that clean as a whistle, dry and a flat oil pan surface

 

[DKblue98GT]

Good luck! I had to drop the K member on my 97 Cobra. Not sure if the is room on the 5.0 or not.

 

[waynenorcross]

Next up: try to figure out where leak/seeping is coming from.
even after changing the oil and filter and wiping the vicinity down thoroughly, I noticed a bit of seepage of oil along the sides of the oil pan and back a bit. After reviewing “how to” videos online, I purchased a Fel-pro oil pan gasket and feel good about replacing it. My one key question after looking is the little brace that attaches across the rear of the K member. It would appear that taking one side bolt out and rotating the brace out of the way will give just enough room to R&R the gasket(which is how I saw it done on a couple videos). I will of course clean the entire bottom end of the engine to spot any remaining leaks (hopefully NONE!), replace the oil to full and check for leaks after first drive, 100 miles later and of course at the next oil change interval (5k). Oh, anyone know the proper torque specs for the oil pan bolts off the top of their head?

wish me luck!

oh, might have found it. Can anyone confirm/deny the following:
110-144 inch lbs, or 1st step: 7-9 ft lbs, 2nd step: 10-13 ft lbs.

Why not try the oil additive and uv light inspection first? Did you notice any leaking before? Make sure you didn't cross thread the oil drain plug or tear the rubber o-ring around it.

 

[Daryl]

Hi Wayne,
Any specific oil additive you’d recommend? And do I just add it or do I drain a quart then add it?

 

[waynenorcross]

Hi Wayne,
Any specific oil additive you’d recommend? And do I just add it or do I drain a quart then add it?

Just an additive. You don't us much. We sold it at Autozone and rented the UV light. That was a good 15 years ago so best to ask if still the same.

 

[Adfalenski]

Nowadays it might even be a free tool loan secured with a deposit to ensure the UV light is returned to the auto parts store.

Also, you have to run the car for a few hours/days before using the UV light to let the additive blend with the oil and leak if it is going to.

 

[Daryl]

Ok, got it. My local AutoZone guys know me, or the car rather. They’re stoked about a ‘95 Cobra