So, I was wondering, and I know there's a reason,or maybe not?? I've seen on Chrysler and Dodge cars that have larger engines (hemi's... 440's) installed with the engine, tranny, front suspension and k-member all as one assembly from the bottom of the car, and then bolted in.. I do realize that this also usually entails having a lift for the car to set it down on the k assembly, but my question is this... Is there a reason why this couldn't be done on one of our cars with a k-member front clip? It just seems like it would make it easier to install something like a coyote,which by the way is the is the widest V-8 used in a mustang besides a sohc 427, or installing a big block, which I know the tranny bolts are a pain to get to on that install.. I mean it would really simplify the installation of either one or even a 4.6 dohc w headers would make that install a lot easier if it could be done.. I mean I've not tried it so I don't know what the stumbling blocks are, but I'm just tossing it out to see if anyone thinks it could be done.. Anyhoooo cheers!!
Ok this may sound stupid, but I was wondering...
- Thread starter Werecow
- Start date
A large majority of the mod guys do drop the k and everything. You can do it with pushrods but they come out from the top just as easily so that is what most do. It’s really a preference at that point, and having either a lift or pulley system to lift the body.
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RAU03MACH
Legend
I hate dropping a k member
But if I had to i would just replace it with a tubular type
I have been lucky on my mach and cobra
4.6 dohc engine coming out from the top
On my 460 in my 92 fox body
I still dropped it in the top with c6 transmission and full headers
But if I had to i would just replace it with a tubular type
I have been lucky on my mach and cobra
4.6 dohc engine coming out from the top
On my 460 in my 92 fox body
I still dropped it in the top with c6 transmission and full headers
Dropping the k member makes it a breeze. That’s my go to method now. I used to pull them all through the top (coyote will go through the top also), after pulling the k member a couple times, if I need to change the oil I’m pulling the k member lol.
ttocs
Post Whore
yea its funny the first time you see it done with a cherry picker as it looks a little crazy with it holding the front of the car up but then when you think about it you feel a little silly doing it the other way.
apsmith49921
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I really wish I would have thought about this. I tried to cram my dohc with long tubes and 4r70w through the top. Long story short... bench pressed the trans lol
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RAU03MACH
Legend
Forget bench pressing the transmission
I have when I was younger
Now nope no way not going to do it
I have when I was younger
Now nope no way not going to do it
This is the way.
PinkieT
Well-Known Member
Got a PI intake and head swap plus shorty header install planned for this winter. Looks like that might be the best way to do it - take the motor and K frame out, do it in the work, then stab it back in.
Just mark the k-member and the subframe so you can put it exactly where it was before.
Do as MM says and drill a 1/8” hole on each side up in to the frame. Then you can align the k member with two 1/8” punches and it’ll be set just like it was prior to the work.
RAU03MACH
Legend
Or like this
OP
OP
Werecow
Well-Known Member
Aight... I'm getting some good info here.... I'm gnna be replacing my k-member anyhoo, so, I'm thinking my best route would be drop/pull old mess out when I get ready for all this... Put in new k-member, align it, mark it/drill holes to make sure it goes back in true, pull it back out, assemble front suspension, engine, headers, tranny on k-member.. Then drop body back down on assembly since I'll already have my alignment marks there? Sound about right??
RAU03MACH
Legend
Ya if your doing a swap i would chang it
Make it look clean
OP
OP
Werecow
Well-Known Member
Idk if you've seen the state of my k-member right now...
And from the back side...
So yeh, it's not just a matter of cleaning it up for a swap.. I feel at this point it's kinda a safety thing... I mean it may be perfectly fine, but a heavy as this engine is, that's a lot of weight on a k-member that's been cut in like this.. I'll get it running and start working on the rest of it in preparation for an upgrade, but I don't think I'm gnna be spending anything on what's under the hood other than having it running for ease of working on it..
And from the back side...
So yeh, it's not just a matter of cleaning it up for a swap.. I feel at this point it's kinda a safety thing... I mean it may be perfectly fine, but a heavy as this engine is, that's a lot of weight on a k-member that's been cut in like this.. I'll get it running and start working on the rest of it in preparation for an upgrade, but I don't think I'm gnna be spending anything on what's under the hood other than having it running for ease of working on it..
RAU03MACH
Legend
Time to change it
RAU03MACH
Legend
Sometimes things get over looked and you miss it
Connie
Member
In the picture, that looked easy. Was it tough disconnecting the Transmission Bellhousing from below? And hard getting to the Top Starter Bolt? I never had to change out the Starter on either one of our Mustangs. But, I hear the top bolt is a bear. I still do have some specialty tools, elbows and extensions, and Swivel Ratchet. That might make it easier to get to.
Connie
Member
OOOHHH, what a job!! We have some Brave, and Smart souls on this forum. Guess I'm facing getting older. EEHH. And I noticed your guy's work areas a pretty clean, not SLOPPY.
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