Iron block? = cast crank, coyote rods, probe pistons,...cant get any cheaper
P.I. Heads vs. Aftermarket heads
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torch318
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Is there any difference between the coyote rods and the boss rods because some people recommend the boss rods?
D3VST8R96GT
Well-Known Member
Probe or dss pistons, coyote rods, and used cobra crank. If you don't plan on going over 600 reuse the stock.
Cost to benefit for a stroker isn't worth it to me on modulars.
ARP rod bolts (2000s are over kill) ARP main and side bolts
Cost to benefit for a stroker isn't worth it to me on modulars.
ARP rod bolts (2000s are over kill) ARP main and side bolts
D3VST8R96GT
Well-Known Member
No they are the same part number...
Do you guys know any sites that sell the coyote rods?
D3VST8R96GT
Well-Known Member
2013 Boss rods
Cheap, and effective. I don't know the price on the rods D3V just gave you but I find these boss rods very reasonable.
Cheap, and effective. I don't know the price on the rods D3V just gave you but I find these boss rods very reasonable.
I have 2013 boss rods in my 98 block with cast crank and srp flat top pistons. The rods are great and hold up to pretty good power.
Those rods also come with wrist pin bushings already installed and they have 12 point bolts that are very similar to ARP rod bolts.
D3VST8R96GT
Well-Known Member
yes boss rods are 5.933(or5.993 cant recall off my head) just like our rods
I was thinking of buying a set and stash them for a future build. Eventually they will be discontinued and prices will skyrocket like all of our SN parts.
My Manley H beams were over $500 and I would be almost as confident running the Boss rods at 1/3 the price.
My Manley H beams were over $500 and I would be almost as confident running the Boss rods at 1/3 the price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Forged-4-6-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e94ee1e40&vxp=mtr
Is that the kind of cobra crank I want? Or does it need to be a 98 crank?
I have yet to hear of any crank failure out of a cast iron block. I totally understand why the desire for a forged crankshaft, but unless your using an aluminum block forged is overrated for your hp goals. Save your money.
D3VST8R96GT
Well-Known Member
That's expensive for a crank needing work. I'm about to sell a spare crank for that price and its fresh from the machine shop.
Its almost just for piece of mind more than anything I only want to tear it down once, I don't want to have to do it again you know what I mean?
Ok but that is what I'm looking for though right. I'm just trying to make a plan now and figure out all the places where the parts I want are sold.
D3VST8R96GT
Well-Known Member
Yes the key is the center needs to have counter weights ....if there are no counter wieghts in the middle and its from ford its a cast crank.
I totally understand! We both car guys pursuing hp and we want whats best. Dont take me wrong here, im only helping you understand the reasoning of the cast crank and not arguing. To go forged in a cast iron block, one might as well opt for H-beam rods instead of 700hp stock powdermetal coyote rods. The logic doesnt make sense...lol. The blocks are so well built, the crankshafts are bullet proof. You will have more worry with a stock style powdermetal gear rotor oil pump, then breaking a cast crankshaft.
BUT, this is just me rambling on...lol We are here when you have more questions!
So basically what your telling me is that I will be totally cool just with the regular cast crank, the boss rods and then the top end stuff and for my HP goals there will be no issues? If that's the case then F**k I might as well take your advice and save myself close to a grand essentially. I think ill listen to you. Now what's this you say about the powermetal gear rotor oil pump? Is there an aftermarket one you would recommend?
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