Parking brake getting loose?

Clutch Cargo

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As I replaced my carpet in my good 'ol 94 Vert, I worked on popping out my center console exposing the handbrake. A very tight fit getting the console out but I saw in a YouTube vid on loosing the two bolts holding the handbrake down... which I did. I loosened them but did not remove, plus the back bolt has a metal plate over the bolt so completely removing is not possible. Just to get your bearings, the back end of the console screws into that plate which is hidden by the storage compartment.

Anywho, I started to re-tighten the two bolts. The one under the plate no problem but the forward bolt (closest to the stick-shift), will no longer tighten. I can't tell if it is striped or if there is a nut underneath is that is now lose? Can't imagine it would be a nut but that's why I am here asking. Plus, how would one even check as it is right over the drive train? Now, the hand brake wiggles and releasing the brake to its flat position is no longer a smooth action.

Anybody seen this/had this experience? Suggestions?
 

ttocs

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I have never heard of loosening the bolts on the hand brake for the console removal. It is a bit of a pain but I always got mine out with out loosening anything on the hand brake.
 

Notthenow

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The metal can fatigue around the mounts. Mine cracked and I made metal backing plates and welded them in from underneath.
 

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Notthenow

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Actually strike that, from on top, the spot welded nuts underneath were fine, but thet could break loose as the welds can be shitty. I refinished underneath as rhe welding burned the paint and I didnt want any rust to begin.
 

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tinnocker

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Does the bolt go thru the new carpet? If so, it may not be reaching the threads to screw in.
 

Clutch Cargo

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tinnocker: no, when I laid the new carpet I cut out the area similar to the original.

Notthenow: those are very clear shots from underneath - appreciate that. Curious, is there any type of cover over that area you worked on? Otherwise the cable seems very exposed to the ground. Looking at your photo it appears maybe one of those retainer clips broke off or loosened.

My issue may be a little more than just the loose bolt. That black rubber boot (or is it called a seal?) appears to have been pulled through and is wrapped under the brake spring mechanism. I'll need take a second look now that I see how it is supposed to look like.

I have no way to raise my vehicle so this looks like its time for a new brake cable. Will have to call around some shops to get some pricing. I read anywhere from $200-500 bucks. Ah, looks like the money I saved putting in my own carpet will now need to go into the cable, ha!
 

Notthenow

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Hey Clutch, there is no cover underneath. It is way up in the tunnel and very little get slung up there. The boot can slide up and down the short cable. Have someone pull the e- brake and see if the levers move on the caliper. You should be able to get a view without the car up. Cheap ramps from Walmart may give you enough space to see the area under the handle if you aren't barrel chested. The cable is cheap, $250 -$500 to change is a bs number in my opinion.
 

Notthenow

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Also, I did mine about 2 years ago so my memory is a little foggy, but there is a a pawl on the teeth of the spring mechanism that doesn't have a lock out on your year. It may be you released the spring and lost the tightness of the cable. Ill look to see if I can find the site I found the info on.
 

Clutch Cargo

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Thanks for all the input guys. So I opened the console back up and here in the snapshots you can clearly see where the rubber seal has got "squished" under the cable mechanism.



DSCN7493.JPG

The tightness of the cable makes it impossible to move so I need to release the tension, pull the cable knob from its seat and then I think I can either push the seal back into place or if it is too chewed up I can purchase a replacement. I see they do sell the seals separately so I take one should be able to slide it over the end knob?

So I am watching YouTubes about the e-brake/cable but so far I have not seen a vid actually showing how to release the cable tension (of course!). They talk about inserting a bolt or releasing the tension spring (not the coil), but I am a bit hesitant. Anybody, actually done this here? In the meantime, I will keep searching videos.

FYI - Being a '94 my stang did not come with the e-brake repair bracket (it's shown on the lower video image link that Notthenow posted just above this post. Guess I missed that recall. Not sure if I need to get one? Does not seem to be related to my issue?

Also, I did find a mechanic that would charge me $95 (one hour labor) to tighten that loose bolt. In my situation I live in an apartment with underground garage so no way I can get ramps and lift the vehicle. I am now thinking about one of those mobile mechanics and see what they would charge.

One other question - Is there some sort of glue that would work to keep that nut from loosening or are we talkin' it needs to be welded back?
 
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Clutch Cargo

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Thx, Notthenow. Yea, I was just reading that article and it was very good. It does say you need the vehicle raised and have two people in order to get slack to the cable for removal. But I have seen/heard where it can be done by one.

I may have come across some good news. Through my research, I discovered about the recall on the parking brake. (recall# 00S37). I contacted a Ford dealership and they said it was still valid (ha, 27 years), so they will inspect and repair for free... maybe they would fix the bolt and seal as well thinking it is/was all one issue. Setting up an appointment as we speak... :p
 

Notthenow

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Wow, that's cool. Hard to believe they will do it, but good option. I've had all that apart and adjusted it without help, but it does take some planning.
Good luck!
 

ttocs

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do ya have a buddy with a garage that you could use for 2 hours? Maybe bring some beer and pizza?
 

Notthenow

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Best option if possible because dealer will get expensive quick if parts are needed. I mean Domino's and Miller is cheap, choke, puke.
 

OpalFrostGT

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I have never heard of loosening the bolts on the hand brake for the console removal. It is a bit of a pain but I always got mine out with out loosening anything on the hand brake.
Ttocs...please take this as humor!
"Well, golly! NOW you tell him...AFTER he took them out!"
I do apologize for my sick humor.
 

Clutch Cargo

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Ha, no problem. In the past I was able to remove the console without loosening the bolts. Just thought it would make it easier.

As an update to this thread as it appears not to be dead, I brought the car into the dealership for the recall. They had it three full days and still could not finish it. I'm sure I was last on their list for priority. They did, however tighten the bolt for me. They said the car was already open and required no additional labor so why not. Ha, I think they new they couldn't leave the whole brake mechanism loose after the repair. So it only took them 3 days to tighten a bolt! o_O

Dropped the car off again this morning in which they promise to have it done this time around. We'll see, but then again it's all free so no complaints.
 

ttocs

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they had it 3 days and did what? The last time I had a place treat me like that it was because I made the mistake of telling them that I was not in a hurry. DO NOT EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER tell a repair place that.........
 

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