Passenger side window quit

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Daryl

Daryl

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Got ‘um drilled out, but can’t get the regulator out. Window keeps coming down with it. Tried taping the window up in place; didn’t hold. Seems like the door jamb end of the wingless is stuck in the regulator channel and doesn’t want to let go. Also bought the wrong pitch nuts/bolts but that’s easily remedied.

Any suggestions? Maybe suction cups on a string to hold the window up? But how should I separate the one end of the glass from the regulator channel?

… learning’ as I go, people. Learning’ as I go!!
 

ttocs

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ya might need a untrained helper to hold the window. I thought I was able to keep it up with tape but it has been a few years.
 
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Daryl

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ya might need a untrained helper to hold the window. I thought I was able to keep it up with tape but it has been a few years.
In the 1A auto video, the guy used 2 sets the suction cups on a string. It definitely works, but where the hell doyou find them?!

on edit: total brain-fart on my part. Hello? Can just use shower suction cups. No string really necessary. Doh!
Harbor Freight on clearance $1.50 - $3.00 ea! Cheaper than a pack of 4 shower suction cups. Go figure!
 
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Finally was able to use a set of pliers to turn up the crimped (by design) rail ends and, thanks to the video, was able to muscle the aft end up then out by manually rolling the regulator “up and over” til I could then simply slide it out the forward end. Definitely not textbook and certainly a hack job, but the rat bastard is out!

M6x1 turns out to be the magic number for the replacement power window regulator. Woo-hoo…. one step closer!
 
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Daryl

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Wires on the new part are too short. Can I splice in the old wires (yellow & red) onto the new(blue & red)? If so which goes to which? Butt-end wire connectors or just strip/twist/electrical tape??

IMG_2409.jpeg
 

ttocs

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realistically if you wire it backwards it is just going to run backwards. It will not blow up or anything and if you do notice at that point then just swap the wires. Do the harnesses not match up?
 
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Daryl

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The harnesses appear that they will hook up, but the new one is too short (won’t reach the male connector) and it doesn’t have the locator plug either.
 

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ttocs

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just cut yourself two pieces of 12" of wire the same length, color does not matter. Cut one wire, then insert one of your wires and if I were you in there I would solder/shrink for connections. Do both ends, then move to the next wire and cut it and insert your new wire. No need to worry about the ends getting mixed up if you only cut one at a time and if they are both the same length it is not messy.
 

lwarrior1016

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I kind of like the idea of using the old motor wires spliced on to the new motor wires. That way it’s only two connections instead of 4.

Solder and heat shrink, or heat shrink butt connectors are the only way I’d connect them.
 
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Daryl

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I kind of like the idea of using the old motor wires spliced on to the new motor wires. That way it’s only two connections instead of 4.

Solder and heat shrink, or heat shrink butt connectors are the only way I’d connect them.
Butt-end connectors did the trick and it works! Just have to return to the glass shop Monday at 1:00 do they can install the long track piece.
 

ttocs

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that spot gets wet is why I said solder/shrink would be better. The barrel crimps when they get wet will start to corrode the wire. They will last for a little bit, next time it gives you issues check that connection first
 
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Daryl

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I think I still have some shrink. If not… VatoZone. If that fails: wrap each wire individually with electrical tape then both together with the tape. (Doubling-up). I don’t have a heat gun, so it’s Old School lighter or matches for me. :-(
 

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I think I still have some shrink. If not… VatoZone. If that fails: wrap each wire individually with electrical tape then both together with the tape. (Doubling-up). I don’t have a heat gun, so it’s Old School lighter or matches for me. :-(

If you already crimped the butt connectors, it's too late to slide the heat shrink on there.
You'll have to use tape. Not a fan though.
 
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Daryl

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If you already crimped the butt connectors, it's too late to slide the heat shrink on there.
You'll have to use tape. Not a fan though.
Can’t I just slice open the shrink tube lengthwise and melt it down over them? Overlapping of course.
 

lwarrior1016

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Can’t I just slice open the shrink tube lengthwise and melt it down over them? Overlapping of course.
I’ve thought about doing that, quite a bit actually. But I don’t think the heat shrink will seal to itself like that. I believe when you shrink it, it will pull the overlap pieces apart.

You can definitely try, and report results. I don’t think it’ll work though.
 

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No you can't just cut it. There is also a self vulcanizing electrical tape that could work, realistically it should last for a while I would not worry till it fails next time
 
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Daryl

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Ok, good info gents, I appreciate it. I’ll look for “self-vulcanizing electrical tape”. If no luck there, it’s down to regular old electrical tape and the door’s water barrier and hope for the best.
I should be fine with that come to think of it since it’ll be parked in the shop and inside a full-zip car capsule very soon.
 
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Daryl

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Done deal! Installer finished it up yesterday. Unit works well. A tad sluggish, but I’m just glad to be able to roll it up all the way. The switch is backwards, but again I don’t care! I’ll see if I can reverse the switch or just get used to it. And will button it all back up today.
 

ttocs

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don't think you can swap the switch. You could swap the wires in the drivers door panel if you knew the colors but otherwise just wait till you are in there again and can swap them.
 

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