PATS system

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Bdenmark73

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Have done that and all the fuses are good... its getting power to the scanner even tried a second scanner to make sure it wasn't the brand or a bad scanner... that is what is getting me confused only other thing that I can possibly think of is the ecu went bad
 

ttocs

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when you say "all" do you mean all the fuses the manual said could be related, or literally EVERY fuse in the car? I mean to pull/inspect every single fuse under the dash and hood and don't even bother with the manual. It amazing how often a blown fuse with nothing to do with the problem at hand can cause problems.
 
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Bdenmark73

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Every fuse in both fuse boxes under dash and under hood that I have... don't have a manual for the car so I normally check everything in a situation like this
 

lwarrior1016

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What year is your car? HP Tuners will only do 99 and up. Hp tuners can turn it off, but only if it’s in the compatible vehicle list. Aside from that, if the fuses are good but the handheld won’t read the computer, it very well might be a bad ecu. You could find someone that can program the ecu on the bench. There is a guy in Kenner, La that can do it. I’ll try to find the web link if you need it.
 
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Bdenmark73

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Well it is a 1998 but the local tuner says they should have software to do it but hp tuners is the main one they use but I mentioned sct and they said they might have to... but please send the info for the guy from La. Any help is appreciated
 

lwarrior1016

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Well it is a 1998 but the local tuner says they should have software to do it but hp tuners is the main one they use but I mentioned sct and they said they might have to... but please send the info for the guy from La. Any help is appreciated
This guy has helped some friends of mine, and he knows his stuff.

 
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Bdenmark73

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All fuses are good and leaning towards either a bad ccrm or bad ecu was testing the harness to ecu and from the research I should have had power at pin #55 but no power there but pins 1 27 and 79 all had key on power... does anyone know if those are the correct pins for having power? Or is it pin 55 thst should have the power going for the ecu?
 

lwarrior1016

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Pin 55 should have battery power from a 20amp fuse in the engine fuse box. 1, 27, and 79 are all transmission related circuits. Pin 71 should have keyed power from the ccrm. 97 should also have keyed power from the ccrm.
 
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Bdenmark73

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Well checked the proper pins again and no power at any of them so took the volt ohm meter and started to pull fuses and test them... found the 20 Amp maxi fuse wasn't reading across the ends and if looking extremely close you can see a hairline blow line across the internal fuse... replaced that and still no power at the pins but the car fires right up now and no longer has any issue... thanks to all that read and helped with this problem it was much appreciated
 

ttocs

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the way I prefer to check fuses is with a test light. With the key on, short of the lights most circuits will have power so I turn the key on and then touch the small metal portion of the fuse on either end of the number and ensure there is power on them both. Visual inspection can miss things like you describe. I like to do it this way because you don't have to pull them out and it will still tell you for sure if the fuse is good.
 
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Bdenmark73

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I did that to begin with and started pulling them out as well just to make sure
 

lwarrior1016

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So glad you finally got it! I bet the scanner will read now lol.

Side bar, I used to run an Allison transmission dealership and I cannot tell you how many freightliner trucks would come in with a no start or failing to gear condition. Turns out the vibration in the fuse box would create a hairline crack on the fuse for the transmission computer. Test light would show good, bolt meter would show good. Until you pushed around on the fuse. You would have to pull the fuse out and pull the legs away from each other to see the break.
 

Makoto

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im honestly considering just ripping all my pats stuff out and using an aftermarket key fob since the ecu has it shut off. seems like the ability to program a remote is tightly coupled to the PATS being enabled.
 
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Bdenmark73

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Well so far my ecu is still talking to rest of car and think I figured out part of the other problems was having with it not shifting at WOT... having a tps sensor low voltage problem along with front and rear o2 sensors and the oil purge line problem but none of the codes are kicking on the CEL... so time to check connections and possibly put on the old tps sensor from the factory throttle body
 
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Bdenmark73

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Already know how actually but the clip is broken now on my connector... old brittle plastic and getting the one I know is good just in case this one turns out bad
 

ttocs

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Already know how actually but the clip is broken now on my connector... old brittle plastic and getting the one I know is good just in case this one turns out bad
REPLACE THE HARNESS!!!! Those clips are important to hold it nice and tight and the problem you will find is that when it gets warm it expands, makes less contact and will effect how the sensor is reading.
 
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Bdenmark73

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Already planning on it ttocs I noticed they was cracked the other day when working on the ecu... replace that and have a back up tps ready just in case it still throws the same code and thinking it is a good place to start before looking at the other codes... because if it isn't running right it can cause other things to throw codes as well
 

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