Paul's Fox Body Restoration Build (Updated 11.29.14 - We Have Fuel Pressure)

[Paul]

Well, this build has been going since November 2007 but the old thread was lost when we switched hosts. I'm going to do my best to re-host all the pictures and get this very long thread back up a piece at a time. Bear with me.

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Here's my thread for the build of my small block Ford 306 engine for my 1989 Mustang coupe. It is a budget build with relatively simple and not-that-expensive parts in it. This is the first time I've built an engine completely from scratch, so I'm excited to do and I'm sure I will learn a lot along the way. This build has been going since December, and the first post should put everyone up-to-date.

The bottom-half components are as follows:

Production 5.0 (302) block, borded .030", align honed
OEM Crank, ground .010, polished, oil holes chamfered, balanced rotating assembly
Probe forged I-beam rods
Probe forged pistons, 4.030"
Clevite 77 main and rod bearings
Sealed Power gapless moly piston rings, 4.030"
ARP main and head studs
ARP harmonic balancer bolt
OEM harmonic balancer, 50 oz imbalance
Centerforce Billet Steel flywheel, 50 oz imbalance
Double roller timing chain
Trick Flow Stage 1 camshaft (.499"/.510" lift, 221/225 degrees duration @ .050" lift, 112* Lobe Separation Angle)

The top end consists of:
TFS Street Heat Intake
TFS Twisted Wedge Heads
TFS 1.6 Roller Rockers
Accufab 70mm Throttle Body and EGR Delete
FRPP Stainless Shorty Headers

Well, I stayed up late last night mocking up the entire rotating assembly with a buddy of mine and checking tolerances on the main and rod caps with plastigage. I also checked crankshaft endplay. My tolerances so far are as follows:

Main cap oil clearances:
Cap 1: .0015"
Cap 2: .0015"
Cap 3: .0015"
Cap 4: .0015"
Cap 5: .0015"

Crankshaft endplay:
.0038" (a little tight, spec is .004" - .008", but I will live with it. It should open up immediately upon startup and the first time I push the clutch)

Rod cap oil clearances:
#1 - .0015"
#2 - .0015"
#3 - .0018"
#4 - .0018"
#5 - .0013"
#6 - .0015"
#7 - .0018"
#8 - .0013"


Here's the block after I masked it all off and painted it cast iron grey.

This motor had OEM main cap bolts, so I replaced them with these ARP main studs for a little extra strength.

This is my friend Mike (he's a CNC machinist by trade) chasing threads on the block while I was cleaning the crankshaft out.

Here's the crankshaft (OEM) and Trick Flow Stage 1 cam.

Here's the pistons, rods, flywheel, and balancer. In that picture you can also see my oil pan and headers that I blasted with steel shot. Those will get powdercoated later.

This is a picturing of the plastigage measurement on one of the main caps.

Here's me torquing down the main caps to 70 ft. lbs. for the last of many times.

Here we are setting up the dial indicator to measure crankshaft endplay. When I did this the second time, I used my magnetic base instead of the clamp - it was easier.

To measure endplay, you set up the dial indicator, zero it, then move the crankshaft forward and backward with a prybar. Endplay should be .004" to .008" - the reason I took this motor apart was because endplay was .131" ... seriously. The crank moved so far forward when I pushed the clutch that the flywheel would actually hit the inspection plate on the bellhousing.

Next, I checked the ring gap, here's what I came up with:

Piston #1
Top Ring: .016"
Second Ring: .016"

Piston #2
Top Ring: .016"
Second Ring: .016"

Piston #3
Top Ring: .018"
Second Ring: .016"

Piston #4
Top Ring: .018"
Second Ring: .016"

Piston #5
Top Ring: .018"
Second Ring: .017"

Piston #6
Top Ring: .018"
Second Ring: .016"

Piston #7
Top Ring: .016"
Second Ring: .014" (was .016" down in the bore)

Piston #1
Top Ring: .020" (was .018" down in the bore)
Second Ring: .016"

So this is basically what I did:


First, remember these important words of wisdom... For safer engines, always use a condom.

And since I'm a bit paranoid, I always double bag it.

The first thing you need to do if you want to make this easy on yourself is buy a piston ring installer. This little tool makes it really easy to pop the rings in the grooves without scratching the crap out of the side of your ring lands. I picked this one up from Pep Boys for six bucks.

Then you need to figure out which rings go where, and how they're oriented. The ones with the shiny edge are going to be your top ones. Here is a crummy picture of the edge of my top ring.

Next, you have to keep in mind that there is an "up" and "down" side of the ring. You'll notice in this picture below that there's a tiny white circle on the ring. That circle means "this side up." On the second ring it's not as easy to see. Mine looked like a dent more than a dot.

Once you got that figured out, you can measure ring gap. This is actually really easy. All you need is a set of feeler gauges and one of your pistons. First, squeeze the ring into the bore. Be careful to not scratch the hell out of your bores with any sharp edges.

Then, take your feeler gauges and see what the largest one that you can squeeze in the gap is.

Then, using your piston to square up the ring to the bore, push the ring down a couple inches into the bore so you can take another measurement with your feeler gauges.

If you're satisfied with your ring gap, then you can install them on the pistons. Make sure to install the rings "180 apart", meaning that if the gap is on one side of the piston for the top ring, put the gap for the second ring on the other side. Also, when installing your oil rings, make sure that the ends are butted up against eachother, not overlapped. My rings came with painted ends to help you make sure they're seated appropriately.

So, that's really all there is to it. In the next installment, I'll post some pics of installing the pistons in the block. This is pretty simple though, you just need a ring compressor and a plastic hammer. You can see my one-piece 4.030" ring compressor in this picture - it is quite a bit easier than the weird ratcheting ones you can rent at the parts store. So, with that - here's a picture of all of my pistons with the rings installed and the tools I needed to do it.

At this point, the entire longblock is built, the cam is degreed and installed, and the valvetrain is completely assembled. Sorry, I don't have pics of that part of the build.

Today, I began bolting up the timing cover up.

Here's my timing cover that I powdercoated.

I used a seal installer to put the front seal in without messing it up.

Then I carefully trimmed the timing cover gasket so it wouldn't show too much once it was installed, and applied a thin bead of RTV.

Once that had "set up" a bit, I installed it on the block.

Then I put another thin bead of RTV on the timing cover and installed it on the block.

I also put some JB Weld in one coolant passage on the timing cover because it was pretty badly pitted.

I put a thin bead of RTV on the water pump gasket, and squished it on the timing cover.

Then I attached the water pump. This thing is a behemoth - it weighs TEN POUNDS.

The stupid studs are ugly and a pain in the ass. I had to run a die over all the threads and a tap through the flange nuts to make them thread easily.


Anyway, then I flipped the motor over and installed the oil pump. Always remember to take cover off the oil pump, and inspect the gerotor and casting for any nicks or burrs. The last one I got had a huge nick in it and I returned it. Then I installed the oil pickup, and re-used my one-piece oil pan gasket. I hope this damn thing seals. I put a dab of RTV in the corners for good measure.

The I put the pan on - this was the one I powdercoated a while back in flat black. I love the way the finish turned out. I tightened down the bolts in two torque sequences, 9 and 15 ft. lbs., starting from the center and working my way out.

Later on I realized that I forgot to put anti-seize on ALL the oil pan bolts, so I have to take it back off and re-do it all over again. Dammit.


So, I began trying to figure out how the hell the damn fox bracketry goes together - I've been workong on SN95 5.0s for so long that I forgot. I eventually figured it out and started measuring bolt pitch and length. I obviously don't have all the correct fasteners here either, so I'll be ordering them as well.

You can also see in this picture how much I had to cut up the factory steel bracket to make it clear the Meziere water pump.

Here's from the top of the driver's side.

Paul.

 

[97vertstang]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

great work i will be watching ur thread closely :headbang:

 

[Steven]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

looks great paul. What heads are those?

 

[justinschmidt1]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

Nice work....whats this motor being built for?

You gonna boost it or anything?

 

[Paul]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

looks great paul. What heads are those?

Trick Flow Twisted Wedge. The combination is listed at the top of the thread.

Nice work....whats this motor being built for?

You gonna boost it or anything?

It's for my '89 notch. Just a fun weekend car that will occasionally get raced. No immediate plans to boost it - I just want to drive it and enjoy it.

Paul.

 

[Steven]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

You actually don't have the heads listed Just the bottom end.

 

[Steven]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

Oh and those are the older TW's obviously correct? I forgot the difference between those and the later style. I have a set here at the house.

 

[Paul]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

You actually don't have the heads listed Just the bottom end.

Doh! I'll add it. Thanks.

Oh and those are the older TW's obviously correct? I forgot the difference between those and the later style. I have a set here at the house.

I have no idea??? They came with the car. I didn't even know there was a difference - care to elaborate?

Paul.

 

[Steven]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

The fact it lacks the "Trickflow" script on the front of the heads and most likely has the "Tfs-SBF1" marking in the valley of the rockers says they are the pre-03 heads, or more commonly the old style. Supposedly these castings lacked something or had a flaw in the valve guides I was told however most of them were fixed. They are basically the same heads, just old casting. Mine look and work fine, so I'm not worried about it, just know that those are 5-10 year old heads.

 

[5.Woahhh]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

This build is EPIC.

 

[94darkhorse]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

Great build thread. Something to refer to when it comes time for me.

 

[Dalamar]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

Show us how its done man!

 

[Paul]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 11/30

I spent three hours in the garage sanding and smoothing my accessory brackets down so that the finish will be nicer when I powdercoat them.

I bead blasted the accessory brackets that I previously smoothed out. They're not perfect, but it's the best I could do with a somewhat pitted Ford casting and limited tools.

Then I spent about two hours powdercoating everything. It's gunmetal gray just like the timing cover. Here's the finished product.

Also, while I waiting for some parts to pre-heat in the oven, I saw my throttle body sitting on the shelf. You know that weird brass tube that sticks out of the top? Well, as I've done on previous cars, I deleted it. This is ultra simple and takes about ten minutes.

First, grap a 1/8" NPT tap, and clamp the TB in a vice. Then tap the threads carefully, making sure to use some WD40. Don't He-Man the thing. Go slowly and use some compressed air to clean out the shavings every couple turns to ensure you don't gall up the threads with crap.

Here's what it looks like when you're done. Good enough for the girls we go with.

Then grab a 1/8" NPT pipe plug and screw it in. You're done.

I got all my accessories mocked up to see how well I can measure bolts.

It appears my skills aren't too bad. Aside from one bolt missing that they forgot to send me, everything so far is just right. I mocked up all my accessories and they all fit perfect. Now I need to go back and powdercoat the two steel A/C brackets, the alternator housing, my spare A/C compressor which I intend to get rebuilt, the tensioner, and the heads of the large tensioner bolts. (ARP doesn't make bolts that size, otherwise they'd match everything else)

I also picked up a spare T-5 transmission case from a friend, which I intend to blast and powdercoat, then I will swap the internals from my existing tranny into it, along with a few key upgrades designed to increase the torque capacity of the transmission.

Anyway, here are the pics of tonight's mock-up.

I eventually got the brackets coated.

These are the steel brackets that hold the A/C in place, as well as the washer for the tensioner pulley, the two tensioner bolts. (because they aren't available from ARP)

I got my lower intake prepped and ready for powdercoating.

There is still a little bit of residue from the old powder, but the new stuff will lay right over it and you won't even know it was there. I taped off all the machined surfaces with hi-temp tape, razored it to the contours of the manifold, and plugged all the holes with silicone plugs. I bought a HUGE plug kit because what came with my "intro kit" wasn't even close to enough.

Anyway, here's the pictures of the prepped manifold:

I thought it might be interesting for you guys to see what it looks like covered in powder before it goes in the oven.

Then this is fresh out of the oven. It takes quite a while for a big part like this to cool down because all that aluminum retains a lot of heat.

Then this is the finished product. All the masking tape has been removed, the silicone plugs have been removed, and my ARP bolts are waiting for some fuel rails.

 

[Dalamar]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 12/01

that's that intake you spend a few hours sanding right......
how many was it?

 

[Paul]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 12/01

The intake was a total of about 14 hours of sanding. It's the only way to make them look halfway decent - the casting flash is really bad on TFS stuff.




I still need to do the upper intake manifold, the alternator housing, and the A/C compressor housing. I ordered some pulleys today too - overdrive alternator, and standard power steering and idler.

I'm refining my skills a little bit with each piece I coat. Right now I'm blasting my transmission case. I'll post before/after pics when I'm done.

Here's the main transmission case before:

Here it is blasted:

I spent about seven hours beadblasting and powdercoating. With the exception of the top plate, my T-5 case is completely powdercoated in light grey metallic.

Here are some pictures of the main transmission case prepped and ready for powder, and then powdered right before I put it in the oven.

Here's the inspection plate prepped and ready for powder, and the final product.

And here's what I worked all day to get.

I'm going to swap the guts from my existing T-5 in this case, and I'm going to try a few key upgrades to make it a little more durable too. It has about 130,000 miles on it so I'm sure it could use a refresh at this point.

I started prepping my upper intake for powdercoat. All that work brought back nightmares of when I did this for my other motor. My hands were literally numb from the vibrating sander and all of the various implements of destruction used in this process.

So, everybody knows (or at least I do) that TFS intakes look like ****. The '80s logo and shitty casting quality and finish of their stuff is an atrocity. Ford accessory brackets have nicer castings that TFS junk. With that in mind, I do my very best to make the TFS manifolds (yes, plural) that I have on my cars look a little better.

Here's what my upper intake looked like this morning:

Then after grinding and sanding for literally EIGHT HOURS this is how far I've gotten.

Here is the epic mess left over after such an adventure. I decimate sandpaper. By the way, clamp-n-sand sandpaper... as opposed to stick-n-sand... is the dumbest idea since Ford gave up pushrods.

I still have a lot of the intake to smooth out with 100 grit. Then I'll move to 150, then 220 before it's ready to be beadblasted and powdercoated. I'm trying to come up with some type of color scheme or something to do with the upper. I'd prefer not to do the whole thing in one color - I just don't know what to do with it yet.

After another 6 hours of prep in addition to the 8 hours I've already spent on it, my upper intake is FINALLY ready to be powdercoated.

I finished sanding the intake smooth. This is a LONG process starting with 40 grit sandpaper, then 60, 100, 150, and finally 220. I have four pneumatic die grinders, an electric angle grinder, and an electric vibrating sander. (which does most of the work) I do large sections with the vibrating sander, smaller ones with various die grinders, and tight spots with a sanpaper roll on the end of a die grinder. Although this is a ridiculous amount of work, I've done it before once and it turns out incredible when it's done. Plus, I don't have to worry about seeing it on someone else's car because most folks don't have the tools are just aren't willing to spend this much time to do it.

Here's the pictures after it was sanded down:

Once that was all done, it was off to the blast cabinet to even out the finish and take off any remaining original powdercoat. I had to up the pressure to 140 psi to get the powdercoat out from the little groove on the top of the manifold. I had to be really careful when blasting it because just dragging it across the floor of the blast cabinet could scratch the finish.

Here's the final pics of the manifold before powdercoat.

Of course, after it came out of the cabinet I spent about half an hour with a garden hose and a pressure fitting running about 50 gallons of water through it to get out all the glass. Then I followed that up with another 20 minutes with the air hose. Glass will wreck a motor in a hurry.

 

[wldtang]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 12/01

amazing detail.

How do you do your own powdercoating?

 

[Steven]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 12/01

looks great man. Be interesting to see how it comes out.

 

[Paul]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 12/01

How do you do your own powdercoating?

You just need a basic powdercoating kit, compressor, blast cabinet, and an oven. I have a How-To article here on what you need to get started, but the pictures were lost when we switched servers. I'll get them back up when I can. It's super easy. If you can do an '03 Cobra swap, you can definitely handle powdercoating. LOL



I'm going to do a custom powdercoat job on this. Probably a two-tone deal with a pinstripe. I've never tried multi-colored powdercoating, but I think I can do it. It should look really neat when it's finished.

I bolted down my lower intake manifold. I also mocked up my new water neck, but I'll bolt it on for real later on. I like the way it looks though...

Anyway, here's some pictures:

I forgot to blast and powdercoat my coolant hardlines so I can bolt them down.

Paul.

 

[Venom351R]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 12/01

looks really good paul, do you have a completion date for the project?

 

[Paul]

Re: Paul's '89 Notch Build - Updated 12/01

No, not really. It'll get done when it's done. I'm hoping it runs sometimes 1Q 2008. I still have lots of stuff left to do even after I get the motor and tranny in.

Once it runs, I'm going to focus my attention on re-doing the whole interior. I'm changing it to black and doing some nice custom touches to it. It should be a really nice car when I'm done.

I'd like to mini-tub the rear and get some 18x13 wheels for it, but I need to talk to my fabricator more about it to see what's involved and how much it would cost.

Paul.