People who have an auto with a stall..... come in

jfor441

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justinschmidt1 said:
my96gtstang said:
i will end up getting a trans cooler and a new radiator just to get them newer and running things cooler. my car randomly seems like it's hotter than it should. i will prolly get a 180 stat as well

Dont the 96s have a radiator problem?
Yes they do! There was supposedly a recall sometime in 97 for an upgraded radiator. Ford changed the radiator design because of the 96 issues.

My car was never fixed by Ford and it was to late for them to do the radiator upgrade.
 

jfor441

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my96gtstang said:
So just got with that mitlkasjdkfj one?

I been happy with mine. Been running it since June last year and not had a single problem with it.
 

voidfinger

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J.R. said:
voidfinger said:
J.R. said:
That's what everyone thinks, although I'm not the only trans guy that will tell you that.

well if i would have known it when i did it and had the extra money which i didn't i would have done it...

would you say that the little that was in there would mess it up?

Honestly, it's hard to say, but probably not, but you are going to change the fluid and filter when you should, most people won't. They think it's a money making scheme or something, go 130k, then it finally starts to slip, they drive it getting worse and worse, then flush the thing. Then they say flushing the trans killed it :hammer:

In the end, some of that crap is in there anyway, no way around it, that's what the magnet is for. BTW, you can put a bigger magnet in there if you want to catch more junk.

lol mine went 170k before it died and it was b/c of a dyno roller... didn't know but when i took the trans to the shop guys before he opened it up... he asked... have you been to a dyno recently... i was like yea like a month ago... he said the front pump would be eat up and when he pulled it... it was... he said that when the dyno brakes come on it forces the fluid to reverse kinda and it will warp the turbine in the pumps and cause it to either fail or eat the casing in which mine did till it just died. So dyno warning everyone... tell them to let the car slow down with its brakes and not thedyno brakes... save your trans.

O and i didn't see a magnet... where is it... maybe i overlooked it.
 

Jrgunn5150

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Bottom of the pan. Never heard of the dyno thing, doesn't seem any different than normal brakes. Of course I have seen dyno operators do goofy thing's like cut the ignition immediately after redline and whatnot too.
 

voidfinger

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J.R. said:
Bottom of the pan. Never heard of the dyno thing, doesn't seem any different than normal brakes. Of course I have seen dyno operators do goofy thing's like cut the ignition immediately after redline and whatnot too.

its just that when the brakes stop on the roller it freezes the movement and the pumps are still trying to pump... he really went into detail that i can't remember now.. but he did pull the pump and show me... all eat up... so it was gonna be cheaper to buy another one lol.
 

Jrgunn5150

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Yeah, it seems kinda feasible, but that would be if they just locked the rollers, and even then it would only happen for a split second. There are bypass ports in there to prevent pressure spikes. I dunno, I need to think about it more.
 
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Brian95SVT

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what was that link for the 3500 stall again?!?!
i'm trying to find one with a price so I can make this list...

unless you can send me to like summit and find one but i didn't...
 

voidfinger

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J.R. said:
Yeah, it seems kinda feasible, but that would be if they just locked the rollers, and even then it would only happen for a split second. There are bypass ports in there to prevent pressure spikes. I dunno, I need to think about it more.

please don't forget that the trans had 170k on it also.
 

voidfinger

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my96gtstang said:
what was that link for the 3500 stall again?!?!
i'm trying to find one with a price so I can make this list...

unless you can send me to like summit and find one but i didn't...

also in my t/c thread that guy snakedmark8 makes t/c and he said was making one that was around 550 bucks that stalled up to 3500. Think thats the way i'm going .
 

Jrgunn5150

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Not bad, you could do better, but it will be sufficient. Always always get the biggest one you can fit, go look at the car first, with a tape measurer and kind of plan out where you want it, how you want it, and what you can fit max, then find the cooler that is closest.
 

Jrgunn5150

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I never linked one, get teh biggest best one you can is all I ever said about it. Something is better than nothing, but this is a case where bigger IS better, and money does buy quality. Everyone with an auto should run a external cooler, heat and a lack of maintenance are the causes of failure in every single trans I see.
 
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Brian95SVT

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oh you posted that B&W Stacked transcooler that one time or someoen did and then you posted a thing for canton *spell check* external cooler or something...
i think you did....
 

Jrgunn5150

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I would use something like this, http://store.summitracing.com/partd...792788+4294782796+4294782770+115&autoview=sku

Or even better, but most people opt to go a cheaper route with the B&M and other copper tube and fin coolers. They work fine, adequetly at least, but it's the type of thing you can't have too much of. I really can't emphasize it enough, change your fluid and keep it cool and the thing will last for damn near ever.
 

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