PI swap and nitrous

96mod289

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if i ran with a PI swap and a 100 shot what would i have to use for octane?
also would it be safe to run a 100 and PI on stock motor?
can i do the PI swap with out pulling out the motor?
 

Dalamar

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Yes you can do the PI headswap in the motor.
edit: in the car, not in the motor :hammer:

I've heard tell of guys running 100 shot's on the stock setup, so long as it's tuned right, you should be fine.

probably premium fuel, I'd ask the nitrous company you go with about the fuel.
It will need more fuel to go with the extra Oxide - wet or dry shot, there's different ways.
 

96mod289

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well i wasnt sure if the swap was possible with out pulling the motor. i plan on doing the swap this winter. then we will see about the nitrous. do think that this setup will give me enough power to get into the mid 13's
 

Dalamar

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ya, good tracktion and some practice! ;)


Here's a pic of mine, done in the car...

1head-on.jpg
 

1996mustangGT

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yeah the high compression ratio with
the PI swap will be helpful if you run nitrous;
nitrous likes high compression
 

Robuilt

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1996mustangGT said:
yeah the high compression ratio with
the PI swap will be helpful if you run nitrous;
nitrous likes high compression

exactly what i was going to mention.

PLUS, if you think about it, when you run nitrous you are most likely going to need a custom tune, say for example by SCT, which most likely will be tuned for 93 octane fuel.

so in short, yes to premium fuel.

....or were you asking about fuel with a higher rating than 93 octane?
 
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WODY281

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I had the P.I. swap plus 125 shot on my old motor and it ran fine. I always used 93, except when I was on the bottle. Then I would add some octain boost. But I would most DEFINATLEY take it to a dyno and get it tuned. Get a flip chip from SCT and someone to tune it on the dyno. That way you can just flip a switch and run nitrous mode, the flip again and be NA mode. :pimp2:
 

96mod289

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hey wody 281, what did you run for times with this setup? also what would it cost to get it tuned?
 
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WODY281

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You know I never ran it on the bottle at the track, so i'm really not sure. But just on the motor my best was an 8.8 at the 8th mile. I could have probably ran alot better, but my tires sucked ass, so I had a lil traction issues thru 1'st and mid 2nd. Not sure about the 1/4th mile times, theres no 1/4th mile track near me. But hell with an 8.8 I was happy, what ya'll think it would run on the bottle???(125shot) Oh-yeah, and the tune cost like $300.00 or so from JMS chips. But I would never go back with them. They took probably 2 months to tune my chip, and customer service was shit. I would def recomned goining to a dyno and getting someone to tune it. Like an sct or diablo person. Def. can't go wrong there!!! Bamachips.com is a good source also!
 

96mod289

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ok well i found a dyno that charges 500 for 3 hours and chip. and i guess i will have to get my heads swaped and slap a 125 shot on and take it to the track. i will let you guy know how it goes.
 

96mod289

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i hope so.. :dancing6: :noes: :banana: now for traction issues what would be more benifical drag springs or full sub frames. any ideas of brands or other items would be good.
 

Dalamar

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Dunno about the drag springs, stronger LCA's would help, and on the subs, definately do them!

MM's XL subs are far better than others, and pretty dam good price.
Less chassis flex and axle deflection will both be a big help.
 

smokinya9

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i just completed the pi head swap in my automatic without a tune and a 50 shot ran 13.7 at 102mph the tune will make a big differance so spraying a 125 or 150 with a good tune should get in low 13s midto high 12s with gears
 

1996mustangGT

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were you having traction isuues at all or were you
hooking up pretty well?
 

98armygt

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i have the full PI swap and 125 dry shot on my car. when it was running i ran a 13.1 @ 107 but had traction issues through first and some of 2nd. i was running on street tires. my 1/8 was an 8.5. if you have a well preped track, like there was at bowling green, you should be alright. but some DR's would be most beneficial. ive crossed at 109 before but it was like a 13.2. the guy i bought the car from ran a 12.5 on slicks. i think i can get better times if i had DR's or slicks on the car.
 

96mod289

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well its is a good thing that i bought some dr's then. but my other queation is what elce becides dr's could i do to help with traction?
 

Dalamar

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96mod289 said:
well its is a good thing that i bought some dr's then. but my other queation is what elce becides dr's could i do to help with traction?

Dalamar said:
Dunno about the drag springs, stronger LCA's would help, and on the subs, definately do them!

MM's XL subs are far better than others, and pretty dam good price.
Less chassis flex and axle deflection will both be a big help.
 

96mod289

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well you see i kinda want to lower it and i want to help my traction, but if the springs dont help that much i might go with full sub frames.
 

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