Please help - Exhaust

Hicks

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Okay, so ill be the BEST detail i can. I have had my stang for about 7 months now. I got it from some dude who needed money and i basicly had to fix the whole car. So its running great and my Check engine light is on. So i wondered why i asked around. And i have an off road H-pipe with mac 2 chamber *2 intch all the way back* so i figure out thats why the light is on. So i ordered a simulator to get rid of the Check engine light and to hopefully gain some hp from the car being in limp mode. Okay, so NOW... i got another problem. The Light is off now and i only have 1 simulator on the left secondary. The light comes on every now and then but goes back off. But see now the car seems to be lagging... now i got an automatic so when im in first *manualy* and i floor it it'll hold back... i can feel it dragging... i mean i dont understand why???? I personaly dont know whats going on.... the car sounds alittle diffrent. and it drives fine but it just seems it will hold back in first or second... with or without doing it myself... ill give it throttle and it wont equal to the power the engine is putting out... but then it will go... its weird.

If i disconnect my secondary o2's what will happen? do i need to just get another simulator for the other side??? and then it will run fine? or should i just remove the thing and let the light be on?? Somone... help... its driving me nuts and a foxbody almost ran off from me when i shouldof owned him liek most of them...
 
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Hicks

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o yea... eny eny ASAP help would be nice... i cant stand my babygirl not being her best
 

ryclef331

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I'm hoping that is your car in you avatar. You do have a 94-95 right? If so, even though you have an offroad pipe, you DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT, need O2 simulators. You ONLY HAVE 2 oxygen sensors and you need both of them. IF you CEL (Check Engine Light) is on and your performance is suffering, you really need to have the codes pulled and find out EXACTLY what code the computer is throwing. You can't just shoot in the dark and guess what it is like that. It will cost you alot of money and frustrations. TRUST me. I've been there. If you don't have access to a scanner, you can STILL pull them yourself. Do yourself a huge favor and pick up a haynes or chiltons manual. In there it will tell you how to jump out the diagnostic port (under the hood). This will make the CEL flash and put out the codes (kinda like morris code). Its VERY hard to trouble shoot a car without knowing exactly what code its throwing. It could be ANYTHING. 9 times out of 10, its a cheap fix. Just get ahold of the tools to help diagnose the problem. Reply back here when you get the code and I'll be happy to help you.
 
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Hicks

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okay well i gues this is where i kick myself in the butt lol... i listened to some of my buddies and put one on...
and now my car is running worse... its lagging and stuff... so i gues ima take it off here tonight. i mean i heard if the Check engine light is on it would make the car go into limp mode...???? but it ran stronger before than now..

So... i gues ill just taske the simulator off
but i wouldnt midn un-hooking my o2 sensors either but you said i need them so ill take your advice seeing as like... im a retard

Yes its a 5.0
i gues im better off with the check engine light on?? lol...
and why do i need the o2 sensors??? if you dont mind me asking
 
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Hicks

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they should call me magic man... i already got the thing off... and fixing the wires that i had to cut
 

ryclef331

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I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that the car was sluggish up until a certain RPM and you had your foot to the floor? When you go to WOT, you car goes in to what is call "Closed Loop Mode." The computer has certain settings that it follows for this and it ignores all sensors (unless one is just completely fucked) and gives the motor all its got. In this mode, it ignores the O2 sensors...BUT when you're cruising around, the car is in Open Loop Mode. It uses the O2 sensors to tell exactly what the Air/Fuel ratio is. IF the A/F ratio is off according to the O2's, the car will compensate. Having proper working O2's is key to good driveability AND good efficiency. I've seen people unhook the O2's completely which causes the car to run in Closed loop all the time...this is a bullshit bandaid fix.

Put the car back the way it should be, if the light is still on, read in the chiltons on how to pull the codes. Its kind of confusing the way they word it but once you do it, it will make a bit of sense. Get the codes, and that will help you figure out what is wrong.
 
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Hicks

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well i spliced my wires and im telling you she is back to normal... she jumps outof the hole again... i wanna hug you but thats kindof gay and all... so ill go find my girlfriend. thank you so much... ill return the sim. and get my 25 bucks back

the light still hasnt came back on... but im sure it will. so explain to me all you know about the whole 5.0 exhaust thing so i can understand it better... i got a BBK o/r h-pipe if that helps.

but i cant thank you enough for kicking me in the balls and saying that wasnt smart.... i gues my car was running normal haha... i thought it was running off and i could get more outof it but im wrong. what made me want a simulator tho... is b/c my buddies told me i wasnt getting my h-pipe eny use with the check engine light on...
but i mean ive replaced everything simple on the car... the o2's might just be the reason... but i mean, if you get new o2's... its going to do the same thing right?? the light wont go off.. b/c i dont got cats right??? or??? o2's?????? certain kind. your knowledge please sir
 

ryclef331

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Your buddies are thinking of (more than likely) 4.6L cars. They have 4 O2 sensors. 2 Before the first set of cats and 2 after. The first two read the exhaust coming right out of the motor. The second set read the exhaust gasses AFTER the gases pass through the first cats. They do this simply to make sure the Cats are functioning properly and the car is good to go emissions wise.

94-95 Mustangs only have 2 (TWO) O2 sensors....just down stream of the headers and BEFORE ANY catilytic converters. There are NO sensors installed after the factory cats AT ALL. SO by removing the cats, yeah, you're polluting a bit more but the car has NO clue at all. Your car has NO IDEA that you ditched the cats....Thats why you're friends are misinformed. Happy to help.
 
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Hicks

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dang dude where can i order one of you?? lol... thats cool man... i cant thank you enough for helping. i had to go back and fix my wires and stuff i spliced them back so no gay redneck stuff was involved... car is back strong... now i wanna go find that dern foxbody again... sigh...
 

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