joe65
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i was thinking i might do the conversion on our Ranger project to the explorer ignition setup.
Project Cherry Bomb: 90 LX
- Thread starter Werecow
- Start date
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Werecow
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Oh I've already got a plan for the ignition.. I know ist based on "the other guys" buy I got it at a steal, and with the shape of some of the wiring on this unit it'll be a lot easier to use and will help out a lot in cleaning up under the hood!!
Got it for $89, and since I needed to change wires with it that gave me the excuse for new wires. I forgot to snap a pic of them but they're moroso cut to fit. Which after making my first set is the only way for me to get wires from now on!!
Got it for $89, and since I needed to change wires with it that gave me the excuse for new wires. I forgot to snap a pic of them but they're moroso cut to fit. Which after making my first set is the only way for me to get wires from now on!!
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Werecow
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Allllllllrighty.... This will tie in with why I had to go see the vampires earlier in the week. I had to have some blood work done prior to going in the hospital. My timing has gotten off just a lil bit and I needed a new distributor to keep my ticker in time. Long story behind it but to make it short, I had to have a pacemaker installed on Friday.
Other than the attached bill (which I'll warn you that you may need to call 911 if you look at it) I'll be knocked out of doing almost anything with my left arm for 6 weeks. I won't be able to lift my left arm over my head for at least 2 weeks, and I won't be able to lift anything over 10 lbs for 4 or 5 weeks. I will still be active here on the forums, and I may have some help on the Cherry Bomb from my ex-wife, her bf and son. I'll post anything that gets done on it. I'll prolly be picking some brains here as I'm still planning out a lot of thing for it. I really do appreciate all the support that I have received since I have joined up here. It's really encouraging seeing how all of you are progressing on your builds as well!! Hats off to you all!!!
Other than the attached bill (which I'll warn you that you may need to call 911 if you look at it) I'll be knocked out of doing almost anything with my left arm for 6 weeks. I won't be able to lift my left arm over my head for at least 2 weeks, and I won't be able to lift anything over 10 lbs for 4 or 5 weeks. I will still be active here on the forums, and I may have some help on the Cherry Bomb from my ex-wife, her bf and son. I'll post anything that gets done on it. I'll prolly be picking some brains here as I'm still planning out a lot of thing for it. I really do appreciate all the support that I have received since I have joined up here. It's really encouraging seeing how all of you are progressing on your builds as well!! Hats off to you all!!!
ttocs
Post Whore
I just paid $100 for an ER visit so it seems like your getting a better deal
Holy hell thats a deal!!!!! Take it easy old man. No point in doing damage to yourself. The car will be there when your ready.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Werecow
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Very cool!! Right now I've been emailing D&D on their shorty 351C headers, which I think may fit, even with the increased deck height. I've done some of the maths and with a set of aluminum heads, intake, and water pump, it gets it down into Windsor territory! Of course I'd like to do all of that along with a k-member and relocate the battery to try and help to balance of the car as well.. Just gnna take time and $$$$ I'd like to go big block some day (pipe dream) and since it's already got a C6 tranny with a 429-460 bell housing I'm halfway there on that! (Yeh I know a stocker won't handle it but neither will my 7.5 rear end!) Btw, it's not always horsepower that wins on the street, you gotta have torque!!! (Yeh I know I've prolly stepped in it there...)
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Werecow
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Update time!!!! Sooo I had to spend almost a week in hospital as a result of pneumonia that I got as a result of the surgery to put in the frakkin pacemaker!!!!! I was released on 6/1 and have been trying to recuperate as best as I can from that mess and the new meds they put me on... (That's a whole different rant). So today the X-wifey came out to help me out with a lil bit of tinkering around on Cherry Bomb. We got the new gas tank out and did an inspection on it, quick tip! If you're not gonna be installing a gas tank for a while at least put something in the holes so stuff doesn't fall in the tank till you do install it!!! 
After inspection of the tank we did decide that we may as well go ahead and put the tank in Cherry Bomb since I was feeling ok at the moment and she was game for it as well...
LoL!!! Well it's the best place that I have for it right now, unless I try to put it in the backseat of my Sport-trac... I also took off the passenger side valve cover in preparation to clean everything up underneath it since it's been so long ago that it was cranked up. Sry I didn't get any pics, I will ASAP, but everything under it was popcorn dry!!! I have some assembly line and new valve cover gaskets on order. I'm also gnna check to make sure all the pushrods are still true and not goobered up to make sure we get lube to the top!! And yes I do plan on fresh oil and prelubing it when I swap out the distributor as well. All total I was outside maybe 2 hours then she had to help me back inside.. I'ma gnna try an do what I can when I can on it.. it's driving me nuts just wanting to hear it crank up!!!
After inspection of the tank we did decide that we may as well go ahead and put the tank in Cherry Bomb since I was feeling ok at the moment and she was game for it as well...
LoL!!! Well it's the best place that I have for it right now, unless I try to put it in the backseat of my Sport-trac... I also took off the passenger side valve cover in preparation to clean everything up underneath it since it's been so long ago that it was cranked up. Sry I didn't get any pics, I will ASAP, but everything under it was popcorn dry!!! I have some assembly line and new valve cover gaskets on order. I'm also gnna check to make sure all the pushrods are still true and not goobered up to make sure we get lube to the top!! And yes I do plan on fresh oil and prelubing it when I swap out the distributor as well. All total I was outside maybe 2 hours then she had to help me back inside.. I'ma gnna try an do what I can when I can on it.. it's driving me nuts just wanting to hear it crank up!!!
great looking tank!
My cousin's truck only sat for two years and it's pump (which was brand new when we moved it last) was toast. Sitting cars are always a danger. Luckily a tank+pump isnt too big of a deal.
So, what is the difference between 351M and 351C (or W)?
My cousin's truck only sat for two years and it's pump (which was brand new when we moved it last) was toast. Sitting cars are always a danger. Luckily a tank+pump isnt too big of a deal.
So, what is the difference between 351M and 351C (or W)?
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Werecow
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351M has the canted valves just like the Cleveland and the 429/460. It also shares the big block bellhousing pattern so the C6 that I have will fit a big block if I decide to go that route later on. Unfortunately it also has a large open combustion chamber which dropped the combination down to like 8:1.The good thing is it will take Cleveland heads as a direct bolt on! So you can use Edelbrock or Trick Flow aluminum heads to bump up the compression and get better valves along with better flow on em as well!! The M series also has a deck height about 1 inch taller than the Cleveland, this allowed for them to use longer rods and a better rod/stroke ratio especially on the 400, which had a 4in bore and a 4in stroke, the longest stroke on any stock Ford V8 engine. If you're really interested in the Cleveland and M series engines you outta check out Tim Myers racing engines.. he specializes in these and even has a 435 drop in stroker kit for em and has several different sets of heads for em!!! Richard Holder did a YouTube build up on a junkyard 400M and got over 500Hp and over 500 FP of torque out of it!! They will make power, they're sorta like a tall deck Cleveland...
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Ah, nice info. Thanks for the run-down
Sounds like a fairly flexible power plant. I'm confident you can make something fun outta this bad-boy.
Glad you are doing well, I'm sure the EOB that came with that made you smile also. Nice to have good insurance these days!
Do the 335 series motors have the mounts in the same place as the Windsor? Or is there some fab work, or different motor plates required to get it to drop in?
Do the 335 series motors have the mounts in the same place as the Windsor? Or is there some fab work, or different motor plates required to get it to drop in?
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Werecow
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Not really sure how to answer that one, I do know that they mount on the block differently than any other family of Ford engine but from what I can tell there wasn't any kind of fab work done to make it fit in mine. I've only got one 1/2 way decent pic of the motor mounts as it is in mine, I'll try to get some more the next time able to get back outside. Bear in mind that this was originally a 4cyl car as well and I'm not sure if there's anything different there also..btw this is on the passenger side if you can't tell...
Boostr1
Active Member
I don't know, looks there is some shoddy bird dropping welds where the motor mount bracket is welded to the K member. So it might of been modified. Then again you did say it was a 4 cylinder originally, and if they held this long I wouldn't worry about it.
joe65
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Good to hear you're still kicking and thinking about Mustangs. Sounds like a challenging month for you. I'm needing to buy a new fuel tank for mine. The back end of my car is pretty rusty underneath also.
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Werecow
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Oh if you're looking for a good deal on a tank I can point you to the site on eBay where I got mine. Yeh I know taking a chance there, it I got it for $33 less that everywhere else, and you've seen the pics of mine... Btw.... Off topic question... Do any of you know or have an old crank pulley you can measure to see the distance between the center of the bolts? Mine is 3.3 in and has 4 bolts, and I'm trying to figure out a way to convert this thing over to a serpentine belt without spending $$$$ to do it... I've also got some questions regarding my fuel system I need to toss out there somewhere but I don't have it all in my head yet how I need to try and set it up.. still gnna be using a carb for quite a while on it.. so I really don't need a $400 fuel system after the fuel tank..
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Werecow
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Update time!!!!! Yesterday I actually had a good day!! Had a visit to the ER in Friday, they got me straightened out on my meds, long story but I'm feeling a lot better now.. so I went outside and tackled the driver's side valve cover. It was no small feat let me tell you. The back bottom bolt was right under the brake booster and the top back bolt was right against the firewall!! Had to be fun!! Soooo pics!!! First batch will be the passenger side as promised!!
The last one has the casting number on it for those who are into that kinda thing, I already looked it up, and these heads have 2.04 intake valves and 1.66 exaust valves with a 74.5 cc chamber. As best as I can find out this gives me an 8.7 to 1 compression ratio?? That's as best as I can find out.. Back when this one came off the assembly line it was rated at 156 HP @ 4000 rpmsarpms 262 FP of torque @ 2000 rpms. Now before y'all start to laugh... Take a look at the numbers that the foxbody's put out during the 80's especially the torque numbers and see how low the torque number comes in on this one. Yeh I plan on trying out some go fast goodies on it as $$ will allow, but... The driver's side... Here ya go...
Now y'all see what I mean about snug on the backside of this one!
I've also found a pic online that shows what the combustion chamber of these heads look like so you can see that as well..
Here you can see how the canted valves affect the combustion chamber and from under the valve covers the intake valves lean towards the intake manifold and the exaust valves lean to the exaust manifold each giving the moving air a straighter shot to where it's going and thus better flow than traditional inline valves.. That was the thinking back when the Cleveland first came about. The problem was with the Boss engines that used this same basic layout but with much larger valves and larger intake and exhaust ports they were laggy at street rpms and really didn't start to come alive till over about 3500 rpms. The 400 and M series used this same basic layout but engineered it towards low rpm torque hence the low rpm flat high torque numbers that this family makes. Any of you that had a truck with one of these engines can attest to the torque that these engines make. When I was growing up we had a 1980 Ford dually we took to the horse shows each weekend with a 400 and a 4 speed in it. We pulled a 6 horse gooseneck trailer yes with 6 horses and tack for all 6 horses. With a stock 400 with only the addition of dual exhaust on it. Oh I also ordered some goodies!! Pics of those to come when they come in!!! (Excited!!!)
The last one has the casting number on it for those who are into that kinda thing, I already looked it up, and these heads have 2.04 intake valves and 1.66 exaust valves with a 74.5 cc chamber. As best as I can find out this gives me an 8.7 to 1 compression ratio?? That's as best as I can find out.. Back when this one came off the assembly line it was rated at 156 HP @ 4000 rpmsarpms 262 FP of torque @ 2000 rpms. Now before y'all start to laugh... Take a look at the numbers that the foxbody's put out during the 80's especially the torque numbers and see how low the torque number comes in on this one. Yeh I plan on trying out some go fast goodies on it as $$ will allow, but... The driver's side... Here ya go...
Now y'all see what I mean about snug on the backside of this one!
I've also found a pic online that shows what the combustion chamber of these heads look like so you can see that as well..
Here you can see how the canted valves affect the combustion chamber and from under the valve covers the intake valves lean towards the intake manifold and the exaust valves lean to the exaust manifold each giving the moving air a straighter shot to where it's going and thus better flow than traditional inline valves.. That was the thinking back when the Cleveland first came about. The problem was with the Boss engines that used this same basic layout but with much larger valves and larger intake and exhaust ports they were laggy at street rpms and really didn't start to come alive till over about 3500 rpms. The 400 and M series used this same basic layout but engineered it towards low rpm torque hence the low rpm flat high torque numbers that this family makes. Any of you that had a truck with one of these engines can attest to the torque that these engines make. When I was growing up we had a 1980 Ford dually we took to the horse shows each weekend with a 400 and a 4 speed in it. We pulled a 6 horse gooseneck trailer yes with 6 horses and tack for all 6 horses. With a stock 400 with only the addition of dual exhaust on it. Oh I also ordered some goodies!! Pics of those to come when they come in!!! (Excited!!!)
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Werecow
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Did stuff 2 days in a row!!! Look at me go!!!! Sooooo today I tackled the huge job of removing the alternator.. Not a fun job as the long bolt was stuck in the case and I had a booger of a time working it out!! There was a reason why I had to remove it but that'll come later.. sooo pic!!
Yeh yeh I know.. it's a brand X but that's what came on it.. idk about upgrading it or anything like that yet.. but I've got a pic for Scott here too!!
There's the numbers I was able to find on it, as best as I can tell it's only a 78 amp alternator. But now the reason for pulling it out...
Yup.. that's an extension cord... That what was run from the alternator over to the battery lead.. I saw that and decided "Oh hell no!!" That just had to go.. soooo pulled the alternator and gnna get some more suitable wiring for it. I saw a 4 guage kit at ottozone that I may try on it, overwiring can't hurt right?? And the other part that I found, I've been moving the upper radiator hose out of the way because it's not hook up to the engine. Sooo I noticed this...
Yup took it off to prevent any more crud from possible getting on the radiator. I do plan on flushing it out and the engine as well before cranking.. As it stands it's gnna be quite a while before cranking as I wanna have everything right before starting it up to try and minimize any surprises..
Yeh yeh I know.. it's a brand X but that's what came on it.. idk about upgrading it or anything like that yet.. but I've got a pic for Scott here too!!
There's the numbers I was able to find on it, as best as I can tell it's only a 78 amp alternator. But now the reason for pulling it out...
Yup.. that's an extension cord... That what was run from the alternator over to the battery lead.. I saw that and decided "Oh hell no!!" That just had to go.. soooo pulled the alternator and gnna get some more suitable wiring for it. I saw a 4 guage kit at ottozone that I may try on it, overwiring can't hurt right?? And the other part that I found, I've been moving the upper radiator hose out of the way because it's not hook up to the engine. Sooo I noticed this...
Yup took it off to prevent any more crud from possible getting on the radiator. I do plan on flushing it out and the engine as well before cranking.. As it stands it's gnna be quite a while before cranking as I wanna have everything right before starting it up to try and minimize any surprises..
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Boostr1
Active Member
Are those cukaracha eggs?
