Project Planning - need advice

[iamtheshaner]

My 95 was modified by a PO with an old V1 S trim. It still uses the OE inlet, FMU, T-rex pump, spark retard, etc. I recently installed BBK longtubes, an O/R x pipe and flow dumps. Hate they way they sound BTW, probably going back to H pipe....

I also removed the air pump and installed a fancy billet idler in it's place and capped the ports in the back of the heads by flipping the flanges side to side. Of course that fancy air pump idler is a POS, it doesn't align correctly and my belt chirps like crazy so I need help figuring what idler and tensioner pulley sizes I need to bypass the smog while retaining A/C....

Also on the list this spring was all new headlight & corner assemblies, 99 envoy fog lamp conversion and 96 tails with the Raxiom sequentials. Fresh paint on front bumper, licence plate holes filled, 95 R hood, some touch ups, PDR work and a nice buff/glaze. I have the exterior and interior pretty sorted for now...

But... it looks like garbage because it's sitting on stock springs and wheels. The right rear sits low I'm guessing from the old school aftermarket control arms and a few too many drag launches. Future plans are brembo 4 pistons, coil overs, tubular K and 5 link or T/A with panhard...


Here's my issue... The underhood looks like crap and the driveability isn't the greatest under WOT with the FMU and such. Before I tackle my chassis I want to get it running in proper order. I have a little $ to tackle this project and my MAIN GOAL is to do things only once (if possible). My eventual goals are a steel block 408 turbo and t56. Unfortunately, I don't have the $ to do that powertrain AND do the chassis. Which leaves me with a semi-temporary budget vortech 302/t5 build and balls-to-the-wall chassis.

So.. I have a buddy with the same exact setup; same 3.33 upper pulley and 7.5 lower. He went with a new fuel system and tune and at 15psi made like 460 to the tire. He lifted the heads, though and has been struggling to keep coolant off the ground since. Naturally, I realize this will likely happen to me.

Now it looks as though I need:

Fuel System
A 340lph pump. Will the baffle system in my stock tank keep up with 500hp?
Rails and regulator
New lines
60-80# injectors (room to grow)
Tune (Have a friend who is SCT diety)

Intake
Power pipe
Meth??

At this point I will be struggling with the obligatory belt slip and power severely limited with stock top end (not to mention I'm almost guaranteed to lift the heads).

So lets say I do an HCI....

Can I get a top end kit with a blower cam?
I have to pull the motor to clean up the wiring and inner fenders, re-do my ignition with a mallory unit instead of the crappy 6AL in there now and make the HCI much easier....plus I can paint stuff and generally improve the way things look. Plus, I may as well do a tubular K and just be done with the car from the firewall forward....

So now I'm sitting on an HCI + pullied vortech stock bottom-end 302 which will put me in the danger zone for the bottom end and completely destroy the mickey mouse T5.

Do I go 351w?
With the exception of my distributor, cam and headers... will the heads and intake swap from the 302 to the 351?

Right now the car looks like crap, rides like crap and runs like crap. I'd really like to drive it next year but realistically I can't tie up the shop for 6 months while I tackle a motor R&R, HCI install, fuel system install, tune, tubular K, control arms, brakes, coil-overs, etc at once.


How would you proceed?

Thanks for reading my book, thanks for your advice and sorry for *****ing about stuff people figured out decades ago.

 

[RichV]

I'd make the car run and drive well. Maybe not all out on each item, just enough so you can enjoy it.

#42 lb injectors, big MAF, and tune

Springs, shocks, subframes, LCAs, and some fresh bushings should freshen up the ride.

Drive the crap out of it, then decide what to make perfect.

 

[Addermk2]

Ask your tuner.

 

[DavidBoren]

Personally, I would get what is there running straight. Probably start with the fuel and spark.

To answer your question, yes the in tank baffles will support enough horsepower to split your Windsor block in half. New fuel pump, new lines and rails, and new injectors with room to grow (like you said). Get a kick@ss ignition system in there, and have your tuner friend work his magic.

I can't help you with what belt you need to run a Vortech and bypass the smog pump. Sorry.

Once you get your car running with the new fuel and spark, focus on your botched suspension. You might want to check out MM grip boxes, they probably have something to suit your needs. But poly bushings, subframe connectors/chassis braces, lower control arms (you said yours were old or bad), and a panhard bar should all be at the top of your list.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

[DavidBoren]

Oh yeah, go back to the H-pipe. And for the love of Zeus and all that is holy, please lower it. Get some 2" drop springs from Eibach or H&R, and install them without the isolators. You don't need C/C plates, your stock plates can be drilled to match the 2" drop adjustment.

 

[DavidBoren]

I should have just edited my first response. Sorry. But also, don't waste your money on a h/c/i unless you are going to get the top end you plan on using with your steel block 408.

If you want to freshen up your motor, you can throw some new springs and some 1.7 rockers on your stock heads and install some ARP (main and rod) bolts and (head) studs.

That's all anyone should do to a stock block. Save your money for your 4-bolt block 400ci engine and the T56 tranny to go with it.