Pulling the engine dude! I know its an absolute headache to think of, but long story short, youll be pulling it anyhow. We all here to coach you on when their are questions or challenges but honestly youll save more time by just doing it right
Ptv issue question.
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99GreenStang
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PREACH!! Exactly what I'm saying! Do it right the first time! No builder or mfg can tell you if your gonna have sufficient PTV clearance it's impossible for them to say so without seeing it and measuring it firsthand. It's like setting the timing every engine is different and the same principle follows with PTV clearance every engine is different! You always want to measure twice and install once because it is so much work to have to go back and redo things you rushed through just to get it done when in reality your setting yourself up for failure by rushing and costing yourself even more time in the future!
Tear her back down bro and get her figured out so you don't spend money guessing and possibly ruin your engine in the process! if you need any help at all were all here to answer your questions and help walk you through anything you may need help with or have questions about! Good luck on her bro and take care!!!
I understand what you guys are saying, and I was just going to buy the bore scope to look in at the cylinders to confirm I had ptv contact.
But I did a leak down test, twice actually because I didn't believe it at first lol. None of the cylinders lost any compression at all, which is a good sign.
I was also doing some research and I am being told that comp grinds these cams already with a 5 degree advance, can someone explain this to me? And why they would do this in the first place?
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99GreenStang
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By using special timing sets, you can change the angle of the cam relative to the crankshaft. Spinning the cam forward so that the valve opening events happen sooner is called advancing the cam. Retarding the cam is just the opposite. Most camshaft manufacturers grind in around 4 degrees of advance into their cams so that it is automatic when you install your cam with the zero marks on the timing set. This is very common with street cams but varies with different race cams. Make sure you know what you have.
"Typically, engines respond better with a few degrees advance," Godbold explains. "This is likely due to the importance of the intake closing point on performance. Earlier intake closing leads to increased cylinder pressure and better responsiveness." As a general rule of thumb, advancing the cam will help low-end torque, but if your engine is dying by the flag stand, retarding the cam a few degrees should help extend high-rpm power a bit.
Read more: http://www.circletrack.com/techarti...n_science/printer_friendly.html#ixzz3ACHGYAbl
By the way the 270H and other Comp Cams grinds are manufactured with 4 degrees of advance.
Hope this helps you friend!
"Typically, engines respond better with a few degrees advance," Godbold explains. "This is likely due to the importance of the intake closing point on performance. Earlier intake closing leads to increased cylinder pressure and better responsiveness." As a general rule of thumb, advancing the cam will help low-end torque, but if your engine is dying by the flag stand, retarding the cam a few degrees should help extend high-rpm power a bit.
Read more: http://www.circletrack.com/techarti...n_science/printer_friendly.html#ixzz3ACHGYAbl
By the way the 270H and other Comp Cams grinds are manufactured with 4 degrees of advance.
Hope this helps you friend!
Awesome thanks! Exactly what I was looking for. I talked to a few people who have just recently installed these cams and they all said that they degreed it according to the cam card, so I will try that tomorrow and check for ptv. Fingers crossed lol :05.18-flustered:
99GreenStang
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Your very welcome! Glad that helped you out friend!
Yes , the cam card that comes with your camshaft gives you all the information you need in order to degree the camshaft properly. Although you don't "have" to degree your camshaft for things to work I didn't degree mine and I know a lot of people don't and haven't that have built countless motors. But hey if you got the camshaft degree tool and the cam card and want to do it then I say go for it.
If you have any other questions friend don't hesitate to ask.
Are you going to use the Plato method to check the piston to valve clearance?
Good luck and take care friend,
Yes , the cam card that comes with your camshaft gives you all the information you need in order to degree the camshaft properly. Although you don't "have" to degree your camshaft for things to work I didn't degree mine and I know a lot of people don't and haven't that have built countless motors. But hey if you got the camshaft degree tool and the cam card and want to do it then I say go for it.
If you have any other questions friend don't hesitate to ask.
Are you going to use the Plato method to check the piston to valve clearance?
Good luck and take care friend,
Yeah I know that haha. And I used the method with the dial indicator I found on MHS. But I have heard A LOT of misinformation on these cams. And it almost cost me an engine. Learned my lesson on that one. Some say you need to retard them. Some say they don't fit at all unless you notch the pistons. And some say that you just degree them according to the cam card and there is plenty of clearance. So far I have set the driver side to 109ICL and it seems that I have plenty of clearance. Seems to me that they just need to be degreed properly.
I've realized forums can be super helpful, but not to rely on them lol. Always check it yourself if your not sure.
99GreenStang
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Yeah well can't go off of what other people say about the same camshaft with their engine cause all engines are different!
Some can't be used with dome pistons because they are taller and you lose clearance and some require pistons to be notched or flycut. Some like trickflow twisted wedge heads recommend using the trickflow pistons with them cause of the heads swirl design how the valve works in them
but most of the time unless the camshaft is really "beefy" you don't need to worry about notching pistons or flycutting them etc. You can get by with about anything using Flat Top pistons as well!
You can't go wrong by degreeing the camshaft to the cam card specs! Unless if your cams power band " RPM where it starts making power and quits" is like 4000rpm-7000rpm then you can adjust the camshaft so that the power band will start quicker than 4000RPM or you can adjust it so it doesn't start making power until later! That's the only time you need to not go by what the cam card says to do!
You can install them without degreeing them as well as long as your using the right parts in your engine meaning that as long as your not trying something too crazy. Like trying to run a low combustion chamber head with a dome piston and a large camshaft for instance then I would degree it and check clearance because you could be giving the camshaft more lift than what you think causing the PTV to be even closer than you think in that situation I would do it no matter what. But if your setup is flat tops and a set of cast iron heads with a letter cam wouldn't even bother with degreeing it or checking PTV clearance if it was me. But that's just my 2 cents!!
Take care bro
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Some can't be used with dome pistons because they are taller and you lose clearance and some require pistons to be notched or flycut. Some like trickflow twisted wedge heads recommend using the trickflow pistons with them cause of the heads swirl design how the valve works in them
but most of the time unless the camshaft is really "beefy" you don't need to worry about notching pistons or flycutting them etc. You can get by with about anything using Flat Top pistons as well!
You can't go wrong by degreeing the camshaft to the cam card specs! Unless if your cams power band " RPM where it starts making power and quits" is like 4000rpm-7000rpm then you can adjust the camshaft so that the power band will start quicker than 4000RPM or you can adjust it so it doesn't start making power until later! That's the only time you need to not go by what the cam card says to do!
You can install them without degreeing them as well as long as your using the right parts in your engine meaning that as long as your not trying something too crazy. Like trying to run a low combustion chamber head with a dome piston and a large camshaft for instance then I would degree it and check clearance because you could be giving the camshaft more lift than what you think causing the PTV to be even closer than you think in that situation I would do it no matter what. But if your setup is flat tops and a set of cast iron heads with a letter cam wouldn't even bother with degreeing it or checking PTV clearance if it was me. But that's just my 2 cents!!
Take care bro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
