Question about BOV or bypass

Discussion in 'Forced Induction & Tuning' started by Witzy0070, Apr 4, 2016.

  1. Witzy0070

    Witzy0070 Active Member

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    Hey guys, last summer I upgraded from 9psi to about 13psi. I was reading at about 12psi with a vortech v1 it's time for a pressure relief system.

    With my 13psi on my vortech v1 I was wondering if you guys think it's necessary for a bov or bypass valve, if so what would you recommend? I just started looking into them so my knowledge is limited. Thank you.
     
  2. Rob04Mach1

    Rob04Mach1 New Member

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    Do you not have a Bypass Valve on there now ? Or do you have a std Bypass Valve and your thinking of going to a Blow Off Valve ? If you don't have anything then YES YOU NEED ONE especially if you stepped up to 13 PSI

    I can only tell you on a Procharger System a Bypass valve is standard on all their kits (even on low boost applications). The Std little Plastic Vortex Bypass valve I've found is to small for 8lb to 10lb of Boost. Had lots of trouble on my Procharged 99GT with that set up and I had to go to a larger Bypass Valve.

    This is Vortex's Std Bypass Valve which I tried on my Procharger Kit on my 99 and immediately took off because it's too small for 8-10 lbs of Boost. They claim it to be good for 6-10lbs but NFG at 10lbs for me
    [​IMG]

    I switched to a Procharger ProFlo Bypass Surge Valve and never had another issue (plus you can adjust it or change the spring)
    [​IMG]

    This is also the exact valve I have on the 10LB Stage 2 Procharger System I have on my current 04 Mach 1
    This Valve is good to @750 HP and should be all you'll ever need.

    At 13psi I guess you could go to a Blow Off Valve instead, (which would dump boost to atmosphere instead of bypassing it).

    [​IMG]

    Personally I'm not into "The dumping Boost WOOSH" every time I take me foot off the pedal, I found it got old very quick on my last Turbo Performance Vehicle.

    Bottom line is if your question is.....
    I have nothing and do I need something at 13Lbs of Boost, the answer is clearly YES you need at least a good Bypass Valve at that Boost Level.
     
  3. Mustanger

    Mustanger Well-Known Member

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    I learned something here....thanks for posting the question AND the response!
     
  4. mcglsr2

    mcglsr2 Well-Known Member SN95 Supporter

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    For a supercharged car (edit: that is using a supercharger in front of the throttle body, not after), I would think one would always want to run a by-pass valve (a turbo car is a different story). I would also suggest a by-pass valve( BPV) rather a blow-off valve (BOV) since your air is metered - you should put it back into the system. If you were running a speed density system, then BOV to your heart's content. For MAF-equiped cars BPVs tend to work better, though you can tune around a BOV if you really wanted to.
     
  5. Witzy0070

    Witzy0070 Active Member

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    Currently I have nothing installed. I don't want to mess with that cheap looking plastic crap.

    After doing some reading I don't want to do anymore tuning, so not interested in a BOV. However, do bypass valves make noise like a BOV? Additionally, I was looking on Vortech's site and I can't tell if I'd need to run the Mondo http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=30024 or the "Race" model http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=30025. I don't understand how the CFM rates translate into what's appropriate for me... Or is there a better option?

    Either way, thank you for the post, very helpful!
     
  6. Witzy0070

    Witzy0070 Active Member

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    I've really had enough dyno time for the Cobra, let alone my other project... Think I'll stick with a bypass.
     
  7. Rob04Mach1

    Rob04Mach1 New Member

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    Bypass is the way to go and the normal ones like the Bosch or the Procharger ProFlo Bypass you will only hear when you go foot to the floor and build a lot of Boost and then quickly get off the pedal. To be honest that's when you want to hear it because otherwise all that boost hits a dead end gets turned around and exits through the compressor, (compressor surge is very harmful). I've only had to hear that twice in the last year of driving mine when I suddenly had to get off it at WOT, otherwise you shouldn't even know it's there....

    I know the racing Valves can be noisy and I'm not sure about the Mondo Bypass Valve but wow it is a beauty and it would serve your purpose. You do have a lot of Boost and that is a big ass valve so I cant say when and what you'll hear, but if you just want a Hose to Hose Bypass their are plenty of choices out there.

    All you want to do is cut in after the boost exits the outlet of the SC, and simply sent it back into the inlet with the Valve somewhere in between. This way if you build boost and then suddenly shut the door, the Valve will open and take that Boost and sent it back in the inlet of the SC (instead of it trying to go backwards through the outlet of the SC).

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Witzy0070

    Witzy0070 Active Member

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    Ok, when I get the car back from the shop I will do some poking around under the hood. I think I am going with the "race" bypass
     
  9. rz5.0

    rz5.0 Legend

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    I used a turbo smart bov. Just had to use the lightest spring for SC application

    Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
     
  10. 95opal

    95opal Well-Known Member

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    Unless your converting to blow through youll want a bpv. Im running the vortech mondo but its set up as a BOV and im using a blow through sct slot style MAF.