Questions re: URCA, LRCA and Panhard bar kits?

Daryl

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I have the Eibach Pro-Plus suspension front and rear on my ‘95 Cobra solid rear axle. Because I just can’t seem to stop myself and have rapidly become a Mustang addict, I was tooling around MM website checking out upper and lower rear control arms and their Panhard bar kit. I’m interested in all 3 because I actually have noticed a bit of “rear steer”, ie keeping her going in a straight line (yes, the alignments bang on): Hence, the interest in the Panhard bar kit.
The lower control arm with height adjustment also interests me to close the gap between the 40-series tire and the wheel well. And, paying heed to suggestions herein, I will ask FTK to double check the springs are setting down in the perches properly and not adding unwanted height. Or, I guess I could just go back to 50-series rear tires, cram in some new bushings in the stock LRCA’s and call it done. That would also close the gap.

The upper control arms are an afterthought of the lowers. If doing one, why not do it’s counterpart for the same reasons?
 
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Jakespeeds

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Daryl,

I have the https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-adjustable-lower-control-arms-555-4410.html in the lowers & and the https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustang-adjustable-upper-control-arms-555-4100.html in the uppers on my car. I normally have the https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Panhard-Bar-1979-98-Mustang-P480.aspx in the back of the car. But as you noticed the last time you saw the car I have it out right now. Keep in mind that if you do all of this the car will drive way more harsh on the road. But the MMR will take the under-steer or over-steer out of the car. And items like the Steeda units will give you control over the ride height a bit. Make sure the shocks in the rear are not causing you lowering issues. If the rear is lowered down enough with stock length shocks then they might be at the bottom of the compression stroke. That could cause a little issue as well.

Jake
 

Warhorse Racing

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Can you give a better explanation of your "rear steer" issue, please? Do you mean that the car keeps going straight when you're trying to turn, sliding the front tires (understeer)? Or, that the rear end goes sideways when you're trying to turn (oversteer)? Or, is the car weaving when you're driving in a straight line?

Is this happening during performance driving or just normal driving?

Knowing those answers will help us offer up solutions.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Can you give a better explanation of your "rear steer" issue, please? Do you mean that the car keeps going straight when you're trying to turn, sliding the front tires (understeer)? Or, that the rear end goes sideways when you're trying to turn (oversteer)? Or, is the car weaving when you're driving in a straight line?

Is this happening during performance driving or just normal driving?

Knowing those answers will help us offer up solutions.
Warhorse,
Straight ahead driving; normal conditions and speeds. I know FIR CERTAIN the front end alignment is good to go but I still have to correct the steering wheel to keep her straight
 

Jakespeeds

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On a flat-ish road. One with very little to no crown. Going straight. Does it wander in the lane really lazy like? Or does it dart around sharply?

Jake
 

Warhorse Racing

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Warhorse,
Straight ahead driving; normal conditions and speeds. I know FIR CERTAIN the front end alignment is good to go but I still have to correct the steering wheel to keep her straight

Daryl,

If you are certain your alignment is correct (and your frame is straight), then there are some other things to check before upgrading your suspension parts. Check every rubber bushing on the car. Remember, rubber bushings can look good, but be bad. If your bushings have been on the car since new, they are probably bad. Don't forget to check the steering rack bushings and upper strut mount bushings. Also, check your ball joints and tie rods for play.

Check every nut and bolt on the suspension to make sure it's tightened correctly.

If you have recently installed wider tires (like 275s) your car could be tramlining. My 315 square setup often makes the car feel like the front wheels are trying to go in two different directions when there's a crown in the road. That's a common issue when putting wider tires on our cars.

Check your air pressure, and check your tires for uneven wear.

The parts you're considering will make the most difference when the car is cornering, not when it's going straight. A side-effect of upgrading those components is that they will come with new bushings. So, if your bushings were bad, it would seem like the new UCAs/LCAs made a difference when going straight at normal speeds, but, the reality is the new bushings are what solved your problem.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Excellent advice. And I will definitely go through each iteration before doing anything else to the suspension. FWIW, all 4 tires are brand new and at proper psi.

I suspect, as you mentioned, bushings (suspension and steering) are the likely culprits.

I get the car back from FTK in couple days. No motor, but that’ll give me the opportunity to weed through the front end and inspect those bushings up closet and personal.
 

Kevin Phelan

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Is the weaving by chance related to throttle input? In other words, does it steer a bit when you are on and off the throttle? And does the car have a posi?

Another thought, do you have the alignment specs from when they aligned your car? Wondering about the caster split.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Is the weaving by chance related to throttle input? In other words, does it steer a bit when you are on and off the throttle? And does the car have a posi?

Another thought, do you have the alignment specs from when they aligned your car? Wondering about the caster split.
Kevin,
No, not related to throttle input (acceleration or deceleration).

Had the MM camber kit installed so my alignment guy could dial it in perfectly. Not sure the number, sorry.
 

Wmac

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Daryl: What exactly is your goal?

Seems that you are all over the map, worried about emissions compliance, yet going stroker with big heads and camshaft. That may not work out.

Want blazing traction from a stoplight with big power, but also want fuel economy? Not likely to have both.

Not going to go back over all your posts, but what exactly are you trying to accomplish?

Have not seen this asked before, but do you have subframe connectors on the cobra?

And is the rear chassis braced? If not, better put that on your list.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Daryl: What exactly is your goal?

Seems that you are all over the map, worried about emissions compliance, yet going stroker with big heads and camshaft. That may not work out.

Want blazing traction from a stoplight with big power, but also want fuel economy? Not likely to have both.

Not going to go back over all your posts, but what exactly are you trying to accomplish?

Have not seen this asked before, but do you have subframe connectors on the cobra?

And is the rear chassis braced? If not, better put that on your list.
Wmac,
I know, I know. I am “all over the place “! I get spooled up and anxious to get things done on the car and before I know it, I’m off in 3 different directions!
But to answer your questions...
Yes, the 347 stroker will be build with CARB compliant AFR heads. The car still has all 4 catalytic converters abs strict conversation with the builder that it must: (1) pass smog; and (2) have A/C. It will. On both accounts!

Yes, I have subframe connectors.

I’ve given way on mpg for performance.

My overall goal? Solid engine and driving performance. I’m not heavy on the go-fast pedal, but I do get my ya-ya’s getting on the freeway; going around or by some idiot who’s driving like one; and putting the car through it’s paces in the twisters of the local canyons and roads. Basically stated... for my own edification!

And fwiw, your collective observation was bang on. I was/am “all over the place”! But I’ve always been a multi-tasker on projects of any kind, be it automotive or business.
Cheers!!
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Addendum:
I’m bringing the car, sans engine, back home tomorrow. The engine compartment will essentially be “gutted” for the 4-6 weeks while the motor gets rebuilt. I intend to use the time redoing the A/C system best I can!
 

Wmac

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You will have a lot of power on tap, so be careful. It could be a handful.

Talk to MM about your needs. They don't usually recommend much other than stock for UCA's, maybe change the axle side bushings.

Thanks for sharing your quest, enjoy the addiction.
 

joe65

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Man i say read the hell out of the MM website and download the product catalog. I found the catalog offers lots more information about each part they make and the research/track testing they did. The thing about mustangs is that they are not perfectly built cars so things can be off from the factory just a bit and as things wear it gets exacerbated. Something can be almost perfect on one car and way off on another.

also, I 2nd the rubber parts check!
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Man i say read the hell out of the MM website and download the product catalog. I found the catalog offers lots more information about each part they make and the research/track testing they did. The thing about mustangs is that they are not perfectly built cars so things can be off from the factory just a bit and as things wear it gets exacerbated. Something can be almost perfect on one car and way off on another.

also, I 2nd the rubber parts check!
Joe65,
I’m completely on board with everything you said. Including the rubber run through! I’m actually getting the car ( no motor) back in about an hour, so I’ll give it a look over tomorrow
 
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There is WAY too much to read, but i will leave you with this information...

Our cars are 20+ years old. The frame design is arguably 35 or so years old. Ford production tolerances were pretty laid back in the 90s. Even if your alignment is spot on, there could be inconsistencies with how things are made on your car. Your k member can be off, your rear end can be off, the body can be slightly tweaked. All comes with age. My best advice to you would be getting upgraded rear lower arms, a phb and leaving the uppers as they are. If money also isnt an issue i would recommend taking your car to a performance shop to have the k member realigned and having the phb aligned as well

And here is some personal experience. I have a 97 with 300k miles on the body with original upper control arms, hd rear lowers and a phb and thr car not only was aligned perfectly fine, but drives extremely predictably
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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On a flat-ish road. One with very little to no crown. Going straight. Does it wander in the lane really lazy like? Or does it dart around sharply?

Jake
Lazy like
 

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