Radiator support questions.

FlyingPapaya

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So I'm looking at two options for the radiator support. Either paying someone to replace the whole thing that's spot welded in. Currently waiting on some quotes. Or lopping off the bottom half and going with a tubular lower. Getting some tabs welded into it for condenser and two brackets for the rods for coolant reservoir and front hood latch bracket. Possibly add bracket for abs lines if necessary. This isn't going to be a track car anytime soon just trying to find out the best approach. I'm honestly expecting quotes over 1k which means I'll prob go lower tubular.

Would like to hear people's experiences with both. Costs for core replacement and those who went with lower tubular. Which one did you use etc

Mines a little mangled at the bottom and has caused some minor issues that I would like to correct.
Radiator is also developed a slight leak at plastic end cap so I will be doing that as well. Been looking up a good replacement.
 

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95opal

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The easiest way is to go tubular lower.Team Z seals a nice lower.
 
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FlyingPapaya

FlyingPapaya

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I was looking at this one. https://mafracing.com/products/99-0...12547&pr_ref_pid=8595379159331&pr_seq=uniform

I assume you can get access lower radiator support from taking bumper cover and bumper off and just suspennding radiator and condenser. I don't have a garage or access to power for someone to come weld after I cut and install so I might just have to take it to someone and pay them to install it and weld tabs in at same time.

I can do a lot of shit in apt parking spot but no access to power and I doubt Mobile welding service wants to do it there. I wonder if I can wing it, install it and tie up condensoe with some heavy duty cables and drive it to them just to weld tabs.

I'll be doing front rear shocks springs In spot lol

Not having a garage sucks
 
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lwarrior1016

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I was looking at this one. https://mafracing.com/products/99-0...12547&pr_ref_pid=8595379159331&pr_seq=uniform

I assume you can get access lower radiator support from taking bumper cover and bumper off and just suspennding radiator and condenser. I don't have a garage or access to power for someone to come weld after I cut and install so I might just have to take it to someone and pay them to install it and weld tabs in at same time.

I can do a lot of shit in apt parking spot but no access to power and I doubt Mobile welding service wants to do it there. I wonder if I can wing it, install it and tie up condensoe with some heavy duty cables and drive it to them just to weld tabs.

I'll be doing front rear shocks springs In spot lol

Not having a garage sucks
Just get the bolt in version from MAF. Then if you choose, have it welded in afterward.
 
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FlyingPapaya

FlyingPapaya

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Just get the bolt in version from MAF. Then if you choose, have it welded in afterward.
yessir :) just wanted a little confirmation before.
another possibly dumb question. i know i can have them welded in but i can do that as well later with these.

id like to have easier jack points. i know from what ive read ill need weld in subframe connectors at some point, helps with stiffness and letting the suspension doing its job better.. which ill do. little by little.
 

ttocs

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any subframe connectors will make it easy to jack one side up at a time, at least any good brand. Now the stock core support as shown above is not a good spot to use, not sure if the aftermarket versions recommend it or not.
 

Warhorse Racing

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I have Stifflers jacking rails on my SN95 autocross cars (along with the rest of the FIT System). I put my autocross tires on for each event (and take them off after). Jacking rails make changing tires much easier.
 

95opal

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yessir :) just wanted a little confirmation before.
another possibly dumb question. i know i can have them welded in but i can do that as well later with these.

id like to have easier jack points. i know from what ive read ill need weld in subframe connectors at some point, helps with stiffness and letting the suspension doing its job better.. which ill do. little by little.

You'd be better off with subframe connectors and then adding the stifflers fit system to it. It will not only give you a good jacking point but it will stiffen the car up tremendously. After I added the system to my vert I could jack it up and get 3 wheels in the air.
 

shurur

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I have Stifflers jacking rails on my SN95 autocross cars (along with the rest of the FIT System). I put my autocross tires on for each event (and take them off after). Jacking rails make changing tires much easier.
Yup..before stifflers, it was the complete GW subframe.

GW is still another good choice.
 
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