Rear seat delete

Daryl

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Mine is in great shape, but I don’t anticipate the rear seat EVER being used.
1. too hard for friends/family my age and size to get in and out of; and
2. I don’t even know anyone small enough to fit back there, let alone comfortably!

So, why haul the extra weight around? I’m seriously considering the Shrader rear seat delete from LMR. Anyone done this and using same kit? Any other kits out there to consider? I see American Muscle (puke!) has a SpeedForm kit for $80 less. Can anyone speak to the quality of either or both? Or to any other kits out there that I’m not aware of??

Will my rear strut tower brace be in the way? I wouldn’t think so, but thought I’d ask.

Thanks everyone! Cheers!
 
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ttocs

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I would make your own. Get some cardboard to make a pattern out of and then transfer it to wood, then wrap with carpet. Its also not hard to add something custom like some letters under the carpet or a trim line but I loved getting rid of my back seat honestly.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Regrettably, I have little to ZERO carpentry skills, but it does sound like it could be a fun little project. Hmmmm… food for thought!

However, if I do stick with Plan A, I’m also wondering if speakers can be properly and solidly mounted on the ABS platform? Anyone??
 

joemomma

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I've been considering this myself. I was thinking the DIY method, as I can't see spending nearly $200 for some carpet and plywood (although with the price of lumber now, might not be a bad choice!). No one will ever be back there. My only concern is that I like having one side of the seat down so I can hear my sub better. I suppose I could put some grill cloth over a cutover of the vertical section to allow sound to pass through maybe. That might be tough to make look decent though. How good does carpet pass sound? I could just cover the cutouts with carpet and call it good....
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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Not sure carpet passes sound very well, but I’m certainly no audio expert. For me, the cost of having a kit that fits, is designed well and can add a bit of functionality (like adding stereo components to it) outweighs the extra expense. I’m figuring in time, materials, etc versus just a straight, easy swap. But also keep in mind that I am no where near as talented as many of the members here, so I typically have to buy things that are pre-made or come in a kit because I can do so little of that stuff myself. Sad, but true. I wish I had the opportunity to take Shop classes, learned to weld, etc, but those weren’t options growing up.
ok, end of pity party!! You get the picture!
 

ttocs

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The carpentry skills needed for this could not be more basic. You will need to cut along a line. gluing down the carpet is just a shot of glue and some staples but I understand some people do not have a saw or a place to work.
 

Makoto

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Not sure carpet passes sound very well, but I’m certainly no audio expert. For me, the cost of having a kit that fits, is designed well and can add a bit of functionality (like adding stereo components to it) outweighs the extra expense. I’m figuring in time, materials, etc versus just a straight, easy swap. But also keep in mind that I am no where near as talented as many of the members here, so I typically have to buy things that are pre-made or come in a kit because I can do so little of that stuff myself. Sad, but true. I wish I had the opportunity to take Shop classes, learned to weld, etc, but those weren’t options growing up.
ok, end of pity party!! You get the picture!

don't give so much credit to the aftermarket. half the time seems like parts don't fit the way you think they might. i've spent a lot of time making "bolt on parts" fit to my standards.

do it yourself. its cheaper and you get to keep all the tools you bought for future stuff. people wonder why i have so many tools, that's why. its a couple boards and some carpet. don't overthink it.

i'll be fabbing my own, probably, just because i want it to be a certain way (battery compartment on one side and storage on the other).
 

ttocs

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if tony ever pops his head back in he had a guy that put a nice little window in his so that his amps could be seen below it. Now that I think if of it I still have my old one in my basement that I could easily copy and modify but as mentioned the price of wood and then shipping on top I am not sure it would be worth it.
 

95opal

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don't give so much credit to the aftermarket. half the time seems like parts don't fit the way you think they might. i've spent a lot of time making "bolt on parts" fit to my standards.

do it yourself. its cheaper and you get to keep all the tools you bought for future stuff. people wonder why i have so many tools, that's why. its a couple boards and some carpet. don't overthink it.

i'll be fabbing my own, probably, just because i want it to be a certain way (battery compartment on one side and storage on the other).
I couldnt agree more.
 
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Daryl

Daryl

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I don’t want wood. Too heavy; defeats the purpose (shed weight) and I don’t have a press or dye to form the part(s).
I do have all the tools that’d be necessary. So, adding to my tool collection isn’t a motivator at all.
I’m not completely inept with tools. I reconstructed a hillside staircase to my hen houses and vegetable gardens plus built my motorcycle/tool shed(8’x12’x8’) inside my shop. Oh, and I am on my 3rd project vehicle. So yes, I can cut along a line!!
 

ttocs

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don't give so much credit to the aftermarket. half the time seems like parts don't fit the way you think they might. i've spent a lot of time making "bolt on parts" fit to my standards.

do it yourself. its cheaper and you get to keep all the tools you bought for future stuff. people wonder why i have so many tools, that's why. its a couple boards and some carpet. don't overthink it.

i'll be fabbing my own, probably, just because i want it to be a certain way (battery compartment on one side and storage on the other).
make sure that its a sealed battery your going with.
 

joemomma

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You could probably use something like plexiglass or acrylic if weight is an issue, although to get a rigid "plastic" you'd need to go fairly thick, and that stuff gets heavy quickly. As long as you're not going to expect it to support a lot of weight, 1/4" plywood would work. It's much lighter than standard 5/8" or 3/4".
 

TrickVert

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Has anyone weighed the back seat components. I don't recall them being very heavy when I had them out, and the only reason I would consider a delete kit would be for removing *every* bit of weight for drag racing. EDIT: Or maybe to install a competition/show audio system. On a regular street car? Nah.
 

ttocs

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take it out because it sucks to put people back there. You cram them in the back and then get to hear them complain about it as if your sitting in the lap of luxury with you knees eating the dash....
 

RAU03MACH

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Has anyone weighed the back seat components. I don't recall them being very heavy when I had them out, and the only reason I would consider a delete kit would be for removing *every* bit of weight for drag racing. EDIT: Or maybe to install a competition/show audio system. On a regular street car? Nah.
If I'm drag racing I'll remove the seat s completely
Leaving them at home
And go to the track like that
 

RAU03MACH

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take it out because it sucks to put people back there. You cram them in the back and then get to hear them complain about it as if your sitting in the lap of luxury with you knees eating the dash....
Don't use it as uber
No complaints
 

GTR

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Mine is in great shape, but I don’t anticipate the rear seat EVER being used.
1. too hard for friends/family my age and size to get in and out of; and
2. I don’t even know anyone small enough to fit back there, let alone comfortably!

So, why haul the extra weight around? I’m seriously considering the Shrader rear seat delete from LMR. Anyone done this and using same kit? Any other kits out there to consider? I see American Muscle (puke!) has a SpeedForm kit for $80 less. Can anyone speak to the quality of either or both? Or to any other kits out there that I’m not aware of??

Will my rear strut tower brace be in the way? I wouldn’t think so, but thought I’d ask.

Thanks everyone! Cheers!
I know this post is going on a month old but if you haven’t decided I’ll chime in. Scharder was the owner of the yellow mustang registry. Has/had a shop in NC. His rear seat delete kits have been around several years. I have yet to hear any complaints. The construction is ABS plastic, he claims lighter than all competitors. When I finally get mine up and running a Scharder kit is what I’ll get. As far as the rear strut brace, it should be no issue.
 

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