Rear Window Electrical Issue 95 Convertible

[HiddenCityIronworks]

Hey All, quick question. I am having an issue with the passenger side rear window. It will go UP just fine, but not go down. In fact, it seems to trip some safety breaker that kills power to all the windows. If I pull the battery cable for a minute or two, power is restored to all the windows again. I have a spare brand new Ford power window motor, but hat didn't change anything. In fact, It'll trip the system even with the window motor unplugged. No other window has an issue at this point. Any help would be great. As you guys know, I have a youtube channel, so I might go make a video of this to demonstrate if this sounds nutty.

 

[Flade]

You might have a short in the switch. Try swapping the switches between right and left.

 

[ttocs]

sounds like the bushings might be going out on it.

 

[HiddenCityIronworks]

I'll add a little more context to the issue and what I have eliminated so far. The window motor has been removed from the regulator and it still shorts out on the "window down" operation of the switch. I ruled out the motor itself with a new OEM Ford replacement motor, it acts in the same manner. The switch looks to be original to the car, so I'm hoping by replacing the switch does the trick. what seems to be confusing me is that all the windows will quit working completely, and the only way to get them all back online is to power the car off, pull the battery cable for a few minutes, then try again. No fuses blown. Crazy. I know it's a 95 mustang, but I didn't think it was a Windows 95 Mustang.

 

[Ronnied]

If I remember correctly there is a breaker in the fuse box. Spot 14 I think. I had a 94 and 95 and luckily never had this issue just the bad bushings. I only remember because I changed the dash in the 94. Also someone mentioned it being a worn motor. That would be a issue going up, creating a heavier amp load. Down normally doesn't draw as bad.

 

[HiddenCityIronworks]

If I remember correctly there is a breaker in the fuse box. Spot 14 I think. I had a 94 and 95 and luckily never had this issue just the bad bushings. I only remember because I changed the dash in the 94. Also someone mentioned it being a worn motor. That would be a issue going up, creating a heavier amp load. Down normally doesn't draw as bad.

I'll take a look at that fuse location thanks! The regulator tracks seem to be in really good condition, as the motor function fails completely disconnected from the regulator, just laying on the floor pan, then shorts out the system. I have a switch coming today, hopefully that's the problem. considering how much wiring butchery has been performed on this car, my fear is I have a cut wire somewhere that's not obvious to the naked eye.

 

[Ronnied]

If you have an extra ear, reset the system, have someone operate the window for you and you listen closely to the fuse box it may be possible to hear if the breaker is tripping. Old school but if it works...good luck.
I'm working on a fox body now that someone has been working under the hood so I feel your pain.

 

[HiddenCityIronworks]

Well, I have updates, not good. I replaced the switch, the motor, and even tried the motor pulled from the window regulator, and as soon as you press the window down switch for that rear window, the breaker blows, rendering all the windows dead. At least till it resets magically by itself. I have no idea how this car is wired, and to be honest, this one is kicking me in the plumbs so to speak. Anyone who might be able to throw some ideas at me are very welcomed.

 

[Snorky]

Wonder if you should break out the multimeter and check continuity on the wires going from the switch to the motor

 

[ttocs]

 

[HiddenCityIronworks]

Well, I figured this one out through the process of elimination, and shooting the parts gun at it. I replaced the motor, not it. then replaced the switch, again, not it. then detached the motor from the regulator to eliminate the bind, not it again. then as advised above, I pulled out the multimeter and started buzzing out all the wires, and sure as bird poop on a freshly washed car, I had a dead short to ground. And it's buried somewhere in that maze of wires all stuffed under the dead pedal and the hood release. I think I'm going to run a new wire to the switch and be done with it. I have it working now as I've isolated the short through a series of cuts.

I can't even blame this on the stereo sushi chef, as it appears to be in an area of the harness that ford put together, and was undisturbed as far as I can tell.

Thanks for all the responses as always!

Cars R Fun.