94gt347gt40
New Member
So It's been a long while since I've been on here. My 94 GT has been out of commission for over 2 years after I went the cheap route on my engine build and got 3500 miles out of it before the cam bearings failed and snapped my cam. Anyways the old lady said fix it or get rid of it so I'm in the process of fixing it, the car is at a reputable shop and my engine is at reputable machine shop. I figured I'd come back on here and get some input/opinions. So here is the current setup mind you this was a budget build in the beginning.
Stock block with 347 Eagle Stroker Kit Dished JE Pistons ~8.5:1 CR(Was planning on adding boost)
GT40 Heads Race ported with 1.94int/1.6exh valves
Dual valve springs, comp cam pushrods, 1.6 Scorpion RR's
Trickflow Stage 2 cam
GT40 Intake with lower port matched to the heads (Felpro 1250)
70mm BBK TB, off brand CAI, 70 mm MAF for 24lb inj
JBA shorty headers, Off Road H pipe with spin tech turndowns
Rebuilt WC T5, Ford Racing Aluminum driveline, B&M ripper short shifter
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, bbk Adj. FPR, 24lb injectors
KYB AGX 7 way adjustable shocks
King Cobra Clutch kit, ford racing billet steel flywheel
No A/C,smog, or EGR short belted w/ underdrive pullies except Alt pulley stock
Polyurethane motor and tranny mounts, maximum motorsports strut tower brace
Base tune (J3 chip) from Dirty Dirt Racing (pretty sure he's still on here)
That's about all I can remember off the top of my head. Anyways like I said the engine is in the machine shop and I'm supposed to call him later to find out if the block is all good (fingers crossed). The #2 and # 3 cam bearings failed and caused the camshaft to snap. I was thinking about upgrading the CAI and MAF to an AFM power pipe with a 80mm Pro-M MAF, other than that just getting it runnin is good enough for now. I do need a new camshaft though I'm unsure if I should switch or just get another TF stage 2? If I switched would I need a new Base tune? The same goes for the MAF upgrade would I need a new base tune? I would really appreciate it if anyone knows of any shop up here that can dyno tune this dinosaur without upgrading to a stand alone ecu.
Stock block with 347 Eagle Stroker Kit Dished JE Pistons ~8.5:1 CR(Was planning on adding boost)
GT40 Heads Race ported with 1.94int/1.6exh valves
Dual valve springs, comp cam pushrods, 1.6 Scorpion RR's
Trickflow Stage 2 cam
GT40 Intake with lower port matched to the heads (Felpro 1250)
70mm BBK TB, off brand CAI, 70 mm MAF for 24lb inj
JBA shorty headers, Off Road H pipe with spin tech turndowns
Rebuilt WC T5, Ford Racing Aluminum driveline, B&M ripper short shifter
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, bbk Adj. FPR, 24lb injectors
KYB AGX 7 way adjustable shocks
King Cobra Clutch kit, ford racing billet steel flywheel
No A/C,smog, or EGR short belted w/ underdrive pullies except Alt pulley stock
Polyurethane motor and tranny mounts, maximum motorsports strut tower brace
Base tune (J3 chip) from Dirty Dirt Racing (pretty sure he's still on here)
That's about all I can remember off the top of my head. Anyways like I said the engine is in the machine shop and I'm supposed to call him later to find out if the block is all good (fingers crossed). The #2 and # 3 cam bearings failed and caused the camshaft to snap. I was thinking about upgrading the CAI and MAF to an AFM power pipe with a 80mm Pro-M MAF, other than that just getting it runnin is good enough for now. I do need a new camshaft though I'm unsure if I should switch or just get another TF stage 2? If I switched would I need a new Base tune? The same goes for the MAF upgrade would I need a new base tune? I would really appreciate it if anyone knows of any shop up here that can dyno tune this dinosaur without upgrading to a stand alone ecu.