Replacing the rear seal

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by fixthedoor, Feb 22, 2007.

  1. fixthedoor

    fixthedoor Well-Known Member

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    I need to replace the rear seal on the motor soon as I can't stand to watch her bleed. I read up on it and it seems straight forward: drop exhaust, tranny, take out old, put in new, reinstall everything. Is it really that easy? Is there something that I should be cautious about?
     
  2. should be easy

    but there will be that bolt thats you cant get out
    and the bolt you break
    and the bolt that fucks up your day cause you have to go to NAPA

    basicly the one or two bolts that will make a 2hr job take an entire day

    but yah... it aint hard
     
  3. fixthedoor

    fixthedoor Well-Known Member

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    cool, thankx.
     
  4. Suspect

    Suspect Well-Known Member

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    :rollinglaugh: o man aint that the truth!! :rollinglaugh:
     
  5. tell me about it...

    it took me 3 fucking days to change my clutch...
     
  6. 95KBGT

    95KBGT Legend

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    just make sure when you put the new one in, use some bearing grease and put it around the open end of the seal to keep that metal o ring in place, and when you put it in, find a PVC pipe the same diameter, and gently tap it in place, if it goes in crooked, your pissing in the wind.
     
  7. Downshift

    Downshift Well-Known Member

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    About what greg said thats pretty much the most annoying thing in the universe. And ya you got it pretty good all I can say is goodluck on the top bolts of the bell housing and you will be fine. And if you havnt taken a tranny out of one of these cars yet I would highly recomend picking some wobble extensions because they make the 4 tranny bolts go WAY easier at least for me. Maybe a billet flywheel while your there?? haha goodluck.
     
  8. I may be wrong...

    But I'm pretty sure he's gonna need to drop the mid pipe...

    And if the studs are rusted they will most likely break... then he'll need to pull off the headers/manifolds to replace the studs...

    lol... thats exactly what happened when I changed my clutch...

    broke the studs and had to muscle the remaining studs out of the headers... and the only way to do this was pull the headers

    then when I went to put the headers back on I discovered that the flanges where the heads bolt to the heads had warped from the heat... so I had to muscle around with some flat iron to pry the header tubes so I could slip the bolts into the heads... ha ha... that was FUN!

    Having a peice of flat iron in one hand, a ratchet in the other, the bolt in the other, the header in the other... oh wait a sec, I only have two hands, and they don't fot in the gap between the inner fender and cyl head... yup... that was a blast...

    buts thats what happens when ya work on cars... so expect something to go wrong
     
  9. Downshift

    Downshift Well-Known Member

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    It would make it 100X Easier to drop the Mid. I have pulled 5 Fucking mustang trannys in the last 4 months and taking the mid out was much easier if he is taking the bell housing off Im sure he wouldnt have a choice cant remember.
     
  10. yah... I'm pretty sure he'll need to drop that... lol... good luck... yer just might need it... lol
     
  11. Downshift

    Downshift Well-Known Member

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    Ya the exhuast leaks after are always fun to but im sure he will do fine.
     
  12. fixthedoor

    fixthedoor Well-Known Member

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    Yeah definitely need to drop the mid pipe. A few months ago I pulled the tranny to replace the seals on that and install a shift kit, so I'll be crossing my fingers that everything goes smoothly again. A swivel and a couple of long extensions come in very handy when getting those top bolts. Does anyone have any suggestions about which flex plate I should install? Thanks for all the input guys.