ReplicaR's Time Trial Mustang build *Engine Rebuild*

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ReplicaR

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So, I think I found out why car has been running lean when it's hot. Had the tuner look at the car yesterday when it was 100+ outside. IAT was 150F. I gotta get rid of my metal intake leading into the throttle body. I will be changing the Mark8 aluminum 80mm MAF to Mach1 plastic 80mm MAF, and replacing the tubing with carbon fiber. I'll be posting pictures once it's all done and complete.
 

apsmith49921

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So, I think I found out why car has been running lean when it's hot. Had the tuner look at the car yesterday when it was 100+ outside. IAT was 150F. I gotta get rid of my metal intake leading into the throttle body. I will be changing the Mark8 aluminum 80mm MAF to Mach1 plastic 80mm MAF, and replacing the tubing with carbon fiber. I'll be posting pictures once it's all done and complete.
Good to hear you found it. Do you need an 80mm plastic housing? I have one

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ReplicaR

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Unfortunately I've already ordered it, but thank you for the offer :)
 
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Some progress pictures

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amf201091

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Well guys, here it is, in all of its glory.

A short experience with the Saleen stuff. I decided to buy Saleen original parts, because I figured that I would have the best fitment with it. It's kinda disappointing to find out just how much massaging even the real kit requires to look good. What's even more disappointing is that none of it is up to OEM Ford standards. I guess I forget that in the 90s the body kits weren't well designed. The biggest issue I have with these kits is lack of engineering. They had an opportunity to reverse engineer factory stuff, but chose to cut corners. For example, factory rear bumper wraps around the bracket, which prevents both warping and sagging, where as Saleen just went with good enough approach of screwing it to the bracket. All factory front bumpers have a finished (sealed) underside, Saleen is just open. I'm glad they at least retooled the side skirts to use the OEM mounting points, because the original design that needed to be screwed into the bottom rocker was barbaric. It's stuff you probably wouldn't notice if you were to buy a Saleen car, and maybe that was good enough in the 90s, but I honestly expected more.

Having said that, I'm glad that I spent the pretty penny to get this done. The shop that I took it to, spent about a week trimming, sanding, and reworking the kit until it would fit correctly, and as a result of that, it literally looks like a new car. Some obligatory pictures.

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Where'd you get that hood scoop? I've been looking to DIY a functional vent on my stock hood. Yours looks good.

*Edit* Never mind, found your post of where you got it =)
 
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ReplicaR

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Yeah, it's a GT500 vent. It's good enough for something that's not too crazy, but honestly, I don't think it's too good on track, especially with the positioning of stock radiator, and everything else that comes afterwards. I will most likely cup up another hood soon, and install something much larger.
 
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ReplicaR

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It is particularly toasty today in SoCal (105F), so I figured I'd do some pulls back to back in order to test the intake. By the looks of it, the new composite intake is definitely making a difference, and I don't even have a duct hooked up the filter yet. I've made multiple pulls, and each one was around 12.5 to 12.8 AFR, no pinging observed. I still will seal up the duct a bit more for the radiator, so I'm not losing air anywhere, and add a proper hood vent, but I'm glad to that we are finally solving an issue.

The carbon intake venture was not a cheap one. Between the 45 degree elbow and straight tube ($170), Mach1 plastic MAF ($100), new matching couplers and reducers ($80), this is far more expensive than any "cold air intake" for these cars, but it seems that all of them use metal, so I didn't have much choice really here. Sure I could have made it out of PVC pipe, but that's about the only way to make it cheaper.

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apsmith49921

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Nice set up. The original JLT was a pvc pipe its what I have on mine

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ReplicaR

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Cooling issues: Some more interesting information as an update. Last event I was testing the car, and I noticed that when I was sitting in the pits, the car was getting warmer and warmer, highly irregular considering that the fan was on, and it was 55 F outside. I went for a run anyway, since it was under 200 degrees on coolant temperatures, and when I came back, the car was reading 185... I was flabbergasted. How is it possible that that engine goes and does wide open slow speed autox run, and comes back cooler. But then I had an idea: what if my water pump isn't spinning fast enough at idle, courtesy of my BBK under-drive pulleys? To test that, I raised idle to 1500 rpm, and the car started cooling down immediately. Right there and then I knew, the BBK under-drive pulleys aren't spinning the water pump enough to cool my engine.

Of course 94-95 being all special and stuff, the OEM pulleys are impossible to find, and no one reproduces them. I got fortunate enough that a local pick-your-part salvage yard had a 94 GT which was already pretty thoroughly gone through, and luckily for me, the only pulley that was left was the water pump. I've measured the two pulleys side by side, and got following readings:

BBK Under-Drive Water Pump Pulley: 146mm
OEM Ford 94-95 GT Water Pump Pulley: 123mm

That's a 15% under-drive, which seems pretty harmless, but it wasn't really, and that's even considering that my idle speed is 950 rpm, much higher than OEM settings. The current combination is BBK under-drive crank and alternator pulley, and OEM water pump pulley, which cools the car off really quickly and effectively. I am probably still going to keep the under-drive pulleys on the other two in order to protect the alternator and power steering pump, but going back to OEM water pump pulley is a no-brainer really.

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Smart thinking . I’ve had superchargers on my last couple so haven’t had underdrive pulleys since my 2v back in the day . Time to go back in your thread for suspension ideas
 
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ReplicaR

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Got some more pictures at the track, but not on the track unfortunately. The day went pretty well, except I had issue of fuel pushing past fuel cap again. I thought I have dealt with it by changing both EVAP canister and fuel cap, but apparently not. I will have to check for on the final pieces of puzzle now, which is the check valve that goes into EVAP canister, and the line itself (possibly clogged or damaged), and maybe even go as far as putting heat shields around the exhaust tips to remove some of the heat away from the fuel tank.

On the side note, AutoClub Speedway is being demolished and turned into a .5 mile oval, which leaves the road course section unknown. January will be effectively last time I'll be able to run it, so I want to get the car ready for that too. Anyway, couple of pictures, including a super blurry picture of

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And a blurry picture of CodFod... because digital zoom can only do so much.

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A few updates again: Just got the car back from the shop. Regarding the fuel pushing past the fuel cap, I was able to change two things about it. First thing was a slight damage to the fuel vapor line that goes from fuel tank to the EVAP canister. I remembered not too long ago that the car slipped off the jack 12 years ago, and I damaged some fuel line, but since it didn't leak and the car ran fine, I put some tape around it to protect it, and called it a day (20 year old logic right there lol). I told my mechanic to look into it, and sure enough, the line was slightly damaged. It still flowed pretty well, but I'm sure that some of the pressure generated by this bend added to the situation.

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We also decide to use header wrap, and wrap the tail pipes of the car. Frankly I'm surprised how little heat shielding there is under this car around the fuel tank, but we are talking about 90s American Engineering level, so not that surprising after all. If you look under a contemporary car, there are heat shields absolutely everywhere around the exhaust. I am fairly certain that the excessive heat contributed to this issue as well, because we were sitting in pits for a while, and this car gets really hot underneath. I might actually end up doing more header wrap around the front of the x-pipe to reduce the in-cabin temps some more, but for now the tail pipes are wrapped from the rear tail pipe hanger pretty much to the muffler.

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Another fun development is that the composite Moroso oil catch can has cracked at the bottom, and has been leaking oil all over the headers, which made it look like the car is on fire slightly. I thought that it was blow-by coming from the vent at the top of the can, but further examination has shown a pretty large crack at the bottom, so we went back to PVC style routing.

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More to come soon, as I finally hook up the brake cooling ducts and go back to the actual track days, where this car belongs
 
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Got some more pictures at the track, but not on the track unfortunately. The day went pretty well, except I had issue of fuel pushing past fuel cap again. I thought I have dealt with it by changing both EVAP canister and fuel cap, but apparently not. I will have to check for on the final pieces of puzzle now, which is the check valve that goes into EVAP canister, and the line itself (possibly clogged or damaged), and maybe even go as far as putting heat shields around the exhaust tips to remove some of the heat away from the fuel tank.

On the side note, AutoClub Speedway is being demolished and turned into a .5 mile oval, which leaves the road course section unknown. January will be effectively last time I'll be able to run it, so I want to get the car ready for that too. Anyway, couple of pictures, including a super blurry picture of

acc2Kv6.jpg


And a blurry picture of CodFod... because digital zoom can only do so much.

Tim5Nfs.jpg


tfti
 
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Went autoxing, and as usual, it's a good thing / bad thing type of update. The good thing is, that the changes I made, seemed to pay off as far as the fuel foaming goes. Combination of slightly kinked line, and header wrap around the tail pipes, seems to have resolved it completely. The temperature was a bit warmer outside, and I didn't see any issues at all, no pressure build up in the gas tank at all, after I've removed the cap. The bad news is, even after fixing more oil leaks, and installing the PCV again, the car is still consuming a lot of oil. I will have to check the lower intake manifold gasket, but I'm fairly certain that I will have to rering the motor this summer. This sucks, and it's going to be expensive, but it has to be done.

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