That’s so cool! Great job on the seam. It looks perfect
ReplicaR's Time Trial Mustang build *Engine Rebuild*
- Thread starter ReplicaR
- Start date
Lukewarm update: I've handed off the task of chasing the machine shop builder to my mechanic who pulled the motor. Got an update today that the motor is pretty much ready, just a few bits left. Seems promising, but I'll truly be happy once the motor is back in the car.
Good news: the longblock has been assembled. I've settled the bill earlier yesterday, it will be on its way to installation shop later this week. Probably another couple of weeks before it's running, then break in procedure, tuning, squaring away several small bits here and there, and then hopefully track days again in September.
That’s great news, Dmitry!
Musturd
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That’s the update I was hoping for . Great news can’t wait to see it out again .
Exciting times, glad to see this car moving towards being back on the road/track
Musturd
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Main girdle , very nice
This motor is ridiculously overbuilt, which is why it was able to take 10 years of track days with no major problems. If I had a wideband installed earlier, I would have caught the lean conditions that caused rings to fail, and the motor would have been running just fine. Not like it was wasted either, at the time when it was consuming a lot of oil, it was still making 340 rwhp with good oil pressure and good temps.
The car is back home. Right away I can tell that it's not consuming an alarming amount of oil anymore, most evident by the residue left on the rear bumper. I'll start taking care of small bits and pieces here and there, and there are a few bits that still need attention, such as clutch adjustment with the new hydraulic assist from MDL, making sure that dipstick is leveled correctly, etc. I will also put street brake pads back into it for street driving, primarily to keep the white wheels clean, because race pads cover them in dust almost immediately. And another fix that's been waiting forever, an odometer gear replacement. Turns out mine has been broken for some time, it's good that the parts are so cheap and easy. The whole car just seems to be cheap and easy to work on, which is still a HUGE benefit of it. Fact that it can kinda keep up with modern performance cars is also nice. Kids love having the car back, they climb all over the interior all the time. A pro-tip for those who have small kids, put a cage inside of the car: their own private jungle gym.
Alright, quick question for those who may know: I've replaced the odometer gear in the gauge cluster (large gear only, worm gear seemed fine). The odometer now works, but trim meter doesn't move at all. What do I have to do to fix this?
It’s possible the gears aren’t quite meshing. Been quite a few years since I’ve tackled that particular project.
Some more updates for those who don't follow me on Instagram:
Being able to work on the car when I want has been pretty productive recently. I've taken the same approach to projects as I do for work, and broke things down into small chunks of manageable tasks, so that I can be focused and organized in order to get some stuff actually done. Let's go through some of the recent adventures:
1. Battery replacement: I had to replace the Optima battery. It sat outside of the car for like 1.5 years while motor was being rebuilt, and went completely flat. After that, I've tried to bring it back to life with a tricklecharger, but it never quite reached that full charge status, and on a recent test-drive, it popped a seal while steaming like crazy. I didn't know batteries can do that. New battery went in, and should be all good now.
2. Hydraulic clutch issues: The clutch pedal just doesn't feel right. The release point is super high, and it gets inconsistent as I drive it, so I've spent a lot of time with Modern Driveline on the phone, looked through installation instructions again, measured the travel on pushrods and realized that there is still air in the system. No matter how many times I've tried to use their bleed method, I would just make a giant mess and wouldn't bleed all the air out. I've decided to try Motive Products Power Bleeder, and I think this is finally going to do the trick. This tool is awesome, no spills, no mess, totally seals everywhere, and uses pressure to push the fluid through the system.
3. New steering wheel: This is a personal preference, but I just can't seem to get into the whole suede steering wheel. After a while certain patches get shiny, others stay matte, and it doesn't slip through your hands like a leather steering, which is great for racing, but I want to drive this car on the street more. I've looked around and found a replacement for my current Sparco R383, and that is Sparco Strada. This perforated leather steering wheel has red stitching, so it will match the rest of the red and black interior, and it's also 350mm diameter, which is 20mm bigger than R383.
Coming up next will be interior work, and putting on the mileage for break-in.
Being able to work on the car when I want has been pretty productive recently. I've taken the same approach to projects as I do for work, and broke things down into small chunks of manageable tasks, so that I can be focused and organized in order to get some stuff actually done. Let's go through some of the recent adventures:
1. Battery replacement: I had to replace the Optima battery. It sat outside of the car for like 1.5 years while motor was being rebuilt, and went completely flat. After that, I've tried to bring it back to life with a tricklecharger, but it never quite reached that full charge status, and on a recent test-drive, it popped a seal while steaming like crazy. I didn't know batteries can do that. New battery went in, and should be all good now.
2. Hydraulic clutch issues: The clutch pedal just doesn't feel right. The release point is super high, and it gets inconsistent as I drive it, so I've spent a lot of time with Modern Driveline on the phone, looked through installation instructions again, measured the travel on pushrods and realized that there is still air in the system. No matter how many times I've tried to use their bleed method, I would just make a giant mess and wouldn't bleed all the air out. I've decided to try Motive Products Power Bleeder, and I think this is finally going to do the trick. This tool is awesome, no spills, no mess, totally seals everywhere, and uses pressure to push the fluid through the system.
3. New steering wheel: This is a personal preference, but I just can't seem to get into the whole suede steering wheel. After a while certain patches get shiny, others stay matte, and it doesn't slip through your hands like a leather steering, which is great for racing, but I want to drive this car on the street more. I've looked around and found a replacement for my current Sparco R383, and that is Sparco Strada. This perforated leather steering wheel has red stitching, so it will match the rest of the red and black interior, and it's also 350mm diameter, which is 20mm bigger than R383.
Coming up next will be interior work, and putting on the mileage for break-in.
Finally had a chance to take somewhat decent pictures of the car with new wheels. I got the Saleen white wheels like a week before the motor came out, so it basically sat there, never really having a chance to really shine. Pretty happy with White on White look, although it's definitely high maintenance (wash wheels every time I drive it). These are for street driving only, so I've got the 18x9 square setup, which will allow me to rotate the wheels periodically. To maintain the MAX GRIP status, I've got the Kumho V720 tires, which are fairly new 200 tw tire, and should be grippy enough to give me traction on both straights and corners.
Man. That looks so good. I’ve always been very apprehensive about the white on white look but this quells that notion.
Well done.
Well done.
Thanks man. I am even considering white RPF1s once I step up to 18s, but I don't know if they made them in that color with the right size, and I don't think it will be all that fun to wipe them down after every session. Silver hides a lot of brake dust, white turns gray within a few miles with race pads.
My RS05RR’s are horrible to clean after an event. Too many nooks and crannies to wipe
Some pictures, as I'm racking up the break-in miles. A few more issues resolved, as I found rust where the throwout bearing sits on the transmission input shaft (I don't even know how it got there), and one of the components was installed incorrectly on the hydraulic clutch setup from Modern Driveline, and that caused heavier pedal as well as hardware to come loose. I've also had the fuel tank taken down, replaced the o-rings for sending unit and fuel pump, as well as filler neck, and the rollover check valve. I confirmed that vapor line is not clogged. The fuel tank service was less to do with anything wrong, but more like crossing the T's and dotting the I's, as I prepare to install returnless fuel system on the car, and hopefully that will be the end of fuel foaming issues at the track.
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