ReplicaR's Time Trial Mustang build *Engine Rebuild*
- Thread starter ReplicaR
- Start date
nitroram33
Active Member
Some of us have IRS! With the entire MM catalog thrown at it lol...
MM....drink beer
Some more work was being done in the last few weeks, focusing on reliability, and driver comfort:
1. Tuning and monitoring: During last shakedown, the car started to ping, and I could not clear it up by adding higher octane gas. I’ve decided to add an AEM Wide Band sensor for some visibility, and mounted it on an Autometer steering wheel column gauge pod. Overall a pretty sweet setup, even though it obstructs the vision of the dash a bit, blocking tach after 6000 rpm. This isn’t too much of a problem, since I’m planning on installing a shift light in very near future. During tuning I did discover a couple of issues. One of the issue was that fuel pressure was starting to drop at the fuel rail about 3 psi near redline. While this isn’t the end of the world, it just simply means that I’m reaching the maximum potential of 190 lph Walbro, and it’s time to move up to a bigger pump. The other thing I found out is that left cylinder bank is running leaner (13.2:1) than right cylinder bank (12:5:1). This is the most likely culprit of my detonation issues, and seems that injectors will have to come out for servicing. The only way we caught this is because my wideband was on left tube, and tuner used right tube to read on the dyno. The car is running pretty healthy nonetheless, putting down the repeatable 353 rwhp at 6400 rpm on a Mustang dyno. Seems like the setup is nice and reliable. I also found out that my tach is reading slow near the redline, because data logger was showing 6500, and tach was around 6300. We just simply raised the rev limiter to compensate for that.
2. Driver comfort: In order for me to extract every bit of performance out of the car, I must feel more at one with it. I’ve decided to further focus on that by adjusting my seating position, and addressing the slippery pedals. I’ve been running Momo SuperTurismo pedals forever, because they seem to be the widest of the aftermarket covers, and really bridge the gap between brake and throttle. I decided that I wanted to change it up a bit, so I’ve ordered a set of original Ford Racing Bullitt pedal covers, and had my mechanic cut the brake pedal off the pedestal, and mount it 2 inches closer to the throttle pedal. As a result, I ended up with the gap half the width of my foot, which definitely assisted with heel-toe downshifts, and rubber insert in the pedal give me much better grip than before. The other thing I did was raise myself in the seat. I’ve maxed out the mounting holes on the side mounts of Sparco seat, but I was still sitting a bit too low for my comfort, so I went to an upholstery shop, and asked them to make a cushion for me with stitched in Velcro, that I can slip between the race bucket shell and Sparco cushion. As a result of that, I am now sitting about 2-3 inches taller than I used to, which gives me better visibility, but the seat also became significantly more comfortable on longer trips. It’s a win-win in my book.
1. Tuning and monitoring: During last shakedown, the car started to ping, and I could not clear it up by adding higher octane gas. I’ve decided to add an AEM Wide Band sensor for some visibility, and mounted it on an Autometer steering wheel column gauge pod. Overall a pretty sweet setup, even though it obstructs the vision of the dash a bit, blocking tach after 6000 rpm. This isn’t too much of a problem, since I’m planning on installing a shift light in very near future. During tuning I did discover a couple of issues. One of the issue was that fuel pressure was starting to drop at the fuel rail about 3 psi near redline. While this isn’t the end of the world, it just simply means that I’m reaching the maximum potential of 190 lph Walbro, and it’s time to move up to a bigger pump. The other thing I found out is that left cylinder bank is running leaner (13.2:1) than right cylinder bank (12:5:1). This is the most likely culprit of my detonation issues, and seems that injectors will have to come out for servicing. The only way we caught this is because my wideband was on left tube, and tuner used right tube to read on the dyno. The car is running pretty healthy nonetheless, putting down the repeatable 353 rwhp at 6400 rpm on a Mustang dyno. Seems like the setup is nice and reliable. I also found out that my tach is reading slow near the redline, because data logger was showing 6500, and tach was around 6300. We just simply raised the rev limiter to compensate for that.
2. Driver comfort: In order for me to extract every bit of performance out of the car, I must feel more at one with it. I’ve decided to further focus on that by adjusting my seating position, and addressing the slippery pedals. I’ve been running Momo SuperTurismo pedals forever, because they seem to be the widest of the aftermarket covers, and really bridge the gap between brake and throttle. I decided that I wanted to change it up a bit, so I’ve ordered a set of original Ford Racing Bullitt pedal covers, and had my mechanic cut the brake pedal off the pedestal, and mount it 2 inches closer to the throttle pedal. As a result, I ended up with the gap half the width of my foot, which definitely assisted with heel-toe downshifts, and rubber insert in the pedal give me much better grip than before. The other thing I did was raise myself in the seat. I’ve maxed out the mounting holes on the side mounts of Sparco seat, but I was still sitting a bit too low for my comfort, so I went to an upholstery shop, and asked them to make a cushion for me with stitched in Velcro, that I can slip between the race bucket shell and Sparco cushion. As a result of that, I am now sitting about 2-3 inches taller than I used to, which gives me better visibility, but the seat also became significantly more comfortable on longer trips. It’s a win-win in my book.
Last edited:
Patientzero
Member
Two identical widebands will read at least a few points different than one another. I wouldn't worry about it too much especially if you're tuner is using a different brand of wideband. To test it you could swap your widebands side to side and see if the numbers repeat. My AEM reads about 3/10'th different than my Holley.
I still think it's not a terrible idea to check the injectors, especially if the car pinged. A local place can do it for 20 dollars an injector, with a free flow test prior to any actual work, so that I don't have to do unnecessary stuff. If it would run fine, it probably won't be an issue, I'd verify that I'm not running lean, than blow up a piston because it ran too hot and detonated.
Frank.JD.Perez
Legend
def gonna blow up
Tillerman77
Member
Dmitri,
Did you ever post some night time shots of the new lights?
You know something, it completely slipped my mind. I'm sure I'll have the car out soon, so I'll take really good pictures of actual beam on the ground. I did capture this shot, but that doesn't really tell much. What I can say from personal experience however is that the headlights outperform the OEM equipment in my Infiniti G37S, and they are probably on par with my wife's Acura, which is spectacular.
Tillerman77
Member
Thanks, they look great. When you get the opportunity, I would like to see the beam on the ground as well.
Does the same projector do the high beams as well?
Does the same projector do the high beams as well?
Yep, it's a high/low beam kit, that's fully functional. Kinda interesting you can actual hear and see the shutter being activated by magnetic switch, not the most delicate piece of hardware. Having said that, it does work great.
Hey man I've been out for a while, but I just got all caught up with the things I have missed. You've done some great work and I'm glad you're getting it all shaken down! Really seems like you'll be able to fully enjoy this build very soon! Really happy for you!
Thanks man. Some major aesthetic changes coming in 2020, thanks to @Frank.JD.Perez , I was able to secure some parts I've been eyeing for decades, but never really had the finances or the motivation to actually buy and install.
Also, I meant to say congrats on being able to show some of those "Sports" cars that the Mustang is not the boat everyone accuses it of being! I am excited to see the changes you have in store!
Re: ReplicaR's daily driven road race Mustang build
Rear Coil Overs... I has them!
And this is BTW, how you run MM rear coil over kit on the street. You purchase a Hypercoil helper spring, and a spring spacer from Eibach.
As you can see at full droop shock length is longer than the spring that came with the kit. What the helper does, is keeping the spring in place, by putting a very slight tension on it. When the car is at normal ride height the helper is fully collapsed, and has no effect on how the car handles. Backing out of my very steep driveway, I've had no problems with spring coming loose at all
While I was there I also bumped the front spring rate as well, so the new rates are 350 front and 250 rear. One thing I can tell immediately, is how much smoother the car rides now, even though that the conventionally located MM track springs (415-515 progressive which turns to 188-233 coilover rate) is technically softer than the new 250 coil over spring. Hoping to see some improvements at the track this weekend.
Do you have updated links to the pictures? Thanks!
I'll try to find it, but it might take a while. TinyPic went under last year, took most of the pictures with it, which is fine, I should have most of the stuff on physical storage, just a matter of figuring out where. What do you want to see specifically, maybe I've got fresh images?
I can just diagram the whole thing for you. From top to bottom you have: Coilover top hat, helper spring, helper spring spacer, coilover spring, bottom coilover perch. A helper spring has a very weak rate, and in order to be as responsive as possible you want it on top. Now, onto the actual application. Below is a crude diagram that I just whipped up in MS Paint. On the left you will see an actual part configuration. You will notice that coilover top hat and helper spring spacer have inner sleeve of the same diameter, which doesn't allow the helper spring to fully collapse. This doesn't affect the spring rate at all, because once the perch is resting on the helper spring spacer, it is as good as solid connection, and therefore is out of the spring rate equation. An ideal setup would have been where the inner sleeves would fit into each other and the helper spring itself was thicker once fully compressed, like diagrammed on the right, but unfortunately that's not the case. Having said that, while the scenario isn't ideal, it has been surprisingly reliable. The sleeves are resting on top of each other perfectly, so there isn't a scenario where it wears it unevenly, etc. It's been like this for the past 10 years with no issues, used on both track and street, so I don't see a huge deal with it. Hope this helps.
Honestly, I don't see it that way. I respect all kinds of performance, and I realize that given a lot of money, you can make just about anything fast. it won't necessarily handle well, but it will go around the lap quick AF. For example, I enjoy going to autox events in my G37 much more than Mustang, mostly because it actually feels better, and it's more comfortable, etc. Mustang may be really fast, but some things it will just never do, like be able to put the power down out of the corner like a mid or rear engine car. So you kinda have to pick your battles, figure out what's the strength and work on optimizing that. I've talked to one of those Porsche guys, and they said that they were losing time in slaloms due to engine position, however my car was sublime in that section, totally balanced and composed, very easy to drive. Funny to think of Mustang as a momentum car, but it kind of became that over time.
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