Frank.JD.Perez
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tfti
ReplicaR's Time Trial Mustang build *Engine Rebuild*
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DKblue98GT
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That looks so fun! Love the Saleen kit.
Frank.JD.Perez
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that driver shot should be your one and only photo for every profile you have
Haven't updated this thread in a bit, so here are the big things that happened. For the most part.... nothing. I bought a set of white Saleen SVE wheels, which looks pretty nice, and soon I will be selling my RPF1 17x10s to move up to 18s as well. In the meantime, enjoy some track action and wheel pictures.
Musturd
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Car looks killer . I love rpf1’s how much custom work was needed for 10’s all around
Frank sent me a link yesterday, with MotorTrend doing an online feature about history of SN95, and my car is one of the pictures on there (actually 2 of 20 are my car lol)
www.motortrend.com
What Is an SN95 Mustang?
The fourth-generation SN95 Ford Mustang, produced from 1994-2004, was a radical styling and NVH upgrade over the aging Fox-body platform.
Well boys and girls, it's that time of the year. The engine is out for a refresh. It's been consuming oil like crazy for a while now (pretty much since the beginning) and after chasing my tail for several years, I'm pretty much at a point that I need to take it out and rebuild it. This will be a very basic rebuild, where the bottom end will get balanced, fresh rings (possibly new pistons if the bore needs to increase), new gaskets, seals, bearings etc. Heads will get some attention too with the valve job and cleaning of the surface.
While the motor is out, I will do some more preventative maintenance like taking the transmission to be taken apart and inspected, I will most likely throw in a new clutch as well. After the engine is back, there will be further modifications in either improve the car or make it more drivable. I'll keep this thread updated periodically.
BTW, here is a closer look at my mid-pipe. As you can see the while mid section is pretty much completely custom, to ensure the ground clearance, but the real trick bits are the quarter wave tubes. These reduce the amount of drone pretty significantly at 2000 rpm.
While the motor is out, I will do some more preventative maintenance like taking the transmission to be taken apart and inspected, I will most likely throw in a new clutch as well. After the engine is back, there will be further modifications in either improve the car or make it more drivable. I'll keep this thread updated periodically.
BTW, here is a closer look at my mid-pipe. As you can see the while mid section is pretty much completely custom, to ensure the ground clearance, but the real trick bits are the quarter wave tubes. These reduce the amount of drone pretty significantly at 2000 rpm.
Musturd
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Whoa that’s pretty cool . Not sure I could do that to my Bassani x pipe
Fuel injector service, while the motor is out. A little while back I've noticed that the left bank was reading lower than right back. I've decided to do some injector maintenance. While the injectors weren't that far off each other, there were definitely some differences, particularly in the Pulsed Flow Test. The white lines show some pretty different flow rates. After cleaning, this became much more uniform, as did Static Flow Test, being all over the place before, and within 1 percent now. Also an interesting note, the TrickFlow injectors that were advertised at 36 lbs per hour (380 cc per minute) actually flow around 345 cc per minute max, which is closer to 33 lbs per hour. Good to know for the future. Doesn't really affect the overall tune, as that's dialed in by air to fuel ratio, but if I ever get close to 100% duty cycle, I'll know where the weak link is.
While the motor is out, and the car is down, I have been thinking about next improvements, and one thing that's been on my mind is the switch to 18 inch wheels. I've already bought the Saleen wheels in white, but those are street wheels (and occasional autoX), I wanted something wider and lighter for track. Enter Enkei RPF1, this time in 18x10.5 with 15mm offset. I've done the math on the fitment, and I knew that it would be possible to fit the wheels under stock fenders all around, if I could create more room on the back side. Switching from HyperCoil 450 lbs 10 inch spring to 450 lbs 8 inch spring allowed me to move the coilover perch 2 inches up, and that created a lot of room in the back, even allowing me to remove the 6mm wheel spacer that I was currently using with my 17x10 RPF1s. I am not worried about losing some bump travel, because I crunched the numbers based on measurements and dimensions from HyperCo, and I am only losing 1.1 inches of bump travel from static ride height (from 4.3 to 3.2 inches). At that compression, the wheel would be hitting bodywork, so I'm not worried about it. After everything is said and done, I will only have to worry about 5mm of extra clearance on the outside from the intended 295/30R18 tires. This will be a healthy step up of 20mm on all 4 corners. The tire in the pictures is a 315/30R18, which was slightly easier to find as a test fit part, and as you can see, I can kinda get away with using that tire as well, so I know I've got that in my back pocket at some point. I'm pretty excited about this, it literally worked out exactly as I thought it would, and I won't have to pony up money for wider front fenders or disrupt the clean lines of the car with those JDM fender flares.
ttocs
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if this is what you mean by the JDM fender flares(shinoda still sells them), they do not allow for any wider wheel. They are purely cosmetic and just stick to the fender and leave a little wider area on the bottom that will still rub the tire when the suspension is compressed.
teamshinoda.com
Boss Shinoda Wheel Flares
94-98 Mustang Wheel Flares (fiberglass) a set of 4 two front and two rear. allow 1 week from date of purchase to ship
teamshinoda.com
No, he meant this:
I’m curious how the change from 10” to 8” springs will work out for you. My 18x11 +16 RS05RR slightly contacts the coil over with a 315/30r18 and I probably need a 6mm spacer lol
I’m curious how the change from 10” to 8” springs will work out for you. My 18x11 +16 RS05RR slightly contacts the coil over with a 315/30r18 and I probably need a 6mm spacer lol
joe65
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man i dig the white sn95 cobras. that Saleen looks really good.
I don't anticipate any issues. Here is an image of my car in fully loaded state, you can see that the tire is almost touching the bodywork. Typically, that gap from static ride height is 1.5 inches, so that's most compression stroke I see under normal conditions. I've got almost another two inches after that before the 8 inch spring bottoms out.
Alright, I will try this on mine. I have the Uber fenders to help out.
Transmission service time: motor is out, transmission is out, why not take a look what's inside? Before we go into findings, let me set the background for you: this is a factory stock Tremec T5 World Class that came in my car, and it's got over 250k miles on it. It has to deal with 450 lbs of torque, which is 50% over the limit of the factory rating. What is wrong with it? Nothing... not a single thing. Warms my heart to know that if you don't bash the gears, it will literally last forever. The only possible clue of hard work would be the shine on the teeth of the gear in main input shaft (slide 4), and the speedometer gear is heavily worn, because it's an aftermarket gear to correct speedometer after 3.55 rear end swap.
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