Return style fuel sump

Discussion in '96-04 - 2V Specific' started by lwarrior1016, Jul 27, 2015.

  1. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Ive noticed a couple of you guys are putting sumps on stock fuel tanks. I really like the look first off, but I also like the fact that the pump is external and I can run the pump straight from the megasquirt I am installing and I will not have to bother with the ccrm for my fuel. Anyway, my question is, are any of you guys doing write up with pictures of the install? Are you all buing sumps and welding them to stock tanks or are you buying tanks with the sump already installed. I would really like some insight on this before I do anything drastic lol. Thanks for the replies guys.
     
  2. 97stanger

    97stanger Legend

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    I run a Glenns Sump tank and would highly recommend his products, top notch quality. Let me know if you have any specific questions with how everything is plumbed:

    [​IMG]
     
  3. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    I love the way that sump looks. My fuel system doesn't need to be as stout as yours but I like how versatile the system is. I saw the Glenn doesn't offer just a sump, I would kind of like to do that and build it myself. What kind of pumps are you running and how are they wired? Did you use the stock pump power wires? Also, how does you pump run? I mean is it a constant run when the key is on or does it prime and shut off like stock? lastly, what size lines are you running and how did you connect them to the rails? I take it you have an adjustable regulator too. I know ive asked a lot of questions here but I sure do appreciate the help.
     
  4. 97stanger

    97stanger Legend

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    Glenn doesn't offer just the weld in sump, but you can just purchase his sumped tank i think in the $350 range. Are you specifically looking for a weld on sump that goes to your factory tank? I'm running two external Walbro GSS392 pumps (255's). They feed each rail with a 8an line, and I'm running a 6 return line that goes through a filter. Yes I'm also running Fuel lab regulator. My pumps are wired like stock, they kick on when the car gets put into the accessory position and both are constantly running. His system may be overkill for some, but it really depends what your plans are. Below is an idea of how I have them mounted on the fuel tank cover:

    [​IMG]
     
  5. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Ok, I think im seeing it right. In that picture you have a filter into the Y block and then the pumps. From the pumps you go to the regulator then the rails, then the other sides of the rails come back toward the tank and im guessing hit another Y block and go in to the smaller line in the center of your sump?
     
  6. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    And yes, I was trying to get a weld in sump that goes on the stock tank so I could build it myself.
     
  7. punched281

    punched281 Active Member

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    late model has a sump that I used. I used a dumb flux wire to weld mine in and instantly regret that. This winter I am either redoing it or I am going to just to a damn fuel cell.

    Just make sure you have a big enough return line, I would recommend -8 and just be done with it. If it is not big enough it will cause your fuel pressure to stay high.
     
  8. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Ok, good advise. Why do you regret using the wire welder for your sump?
     
  9. punched281

    punched281 Active Member

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    The flux wire just bubbles up and is really messy. Add that to me not being a great welder and you get a lot of pin holes. This winter I think I'll tig it, or just use a gas mig. And make sure its sealed.
     
  10. EVILSN

    EVILSN Active Member

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    I used a new tank and got a sump from blue oval industries and welded it in.[​IMG][/URL][/IMG]
     
  11. EVILSN

    EVILSN Active Member

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    And I used a gas shielded wire for mine. Tack, move around, tack and grind all the welds down. Your inclusions will show themselves and then re weld.
     
  12. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    do you have any pictures of your install process?
     
  13. EVILSN

    EVILSN Active Member

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    Yeah let me look
     
  14. EVILSN

    EVILSN Active Member

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    From beginning to end, the pump was mounted to a plate in the spare tire well but I quickly welded a tab on the bumper support to bolt the pump to.[​IMG][/URL][/IMG][​IMG][/URL][/IMG][​IMG][/URL][/IMG][​IMG][/URL][/IMG][​IMG][/URL][/IMG][​IMG][/URL][/IMG][​IMG][/URL][/IMG]
     
  15. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Awesome install man! When you were welding that thing, did you put a bunch of tach welds around it first and then put the solid bead? Also, did you notice any warping when you were doing the straight weld?
     
  16. EVILSN

    EVILSN Active Member

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    Yes, tack until the area is covered, then grind everything down and tack back over the areas that were missed. Keep doing that until your finished. No solid welding because then yes it will warp.
     
  17. EVILSN

    EVILSN Active Member

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    You can run short beads but don't get the metal super hot and if you run any beads make sure they overlap. Then water test the tank
     
  18. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    So your welds on there are ALL tach welds? That came out great man. Thanks for the input too, I'll probably be doing this in the near future.
     
  19. EVILSN

    EVILSN Active Member

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    Mostly tacks the a few short beads. And no problem dude glad I could help
     
  20. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Im pretty positive you aren't running a purge canister anymore, so if that's the case, what did you do for venting your tank? I also took out my purge canister and I'm thinking about using a vented gas cap, but I don't know where to find one.