Rod knock/spun bearing

[Adam Vinnicombe]

I'm not getting anywhere with fine out if it will all work together, everyone I've contacted so far are all saying they don't know. Is there away of finding out if the clutch kit and the lighten flywheel will work together without bolting it all to the car?

 

[weendoggy]

You can get an ATC flywheel which is the same as a stock one only lighter and it's steel, not aluminum. Take a look at them and you'll see why. I put one in my '02 and a few other cars and they are great. No spacer required. The reason for the spacer is the distance from the fork ball to the flywheel and there's a measurement when you change items. I put a Centerforce Dual Friction in mine and didn't have to change anything, measured out fine. So, unless you're getting some odd setup, you're most likely fine. You can check my setup www.weendoggy.com on the Mustang page.

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

Cheers mate will have a look now

 

[Silver95bird]

why don't you people just put a washer behind the ball stud? i seem to remember doing that with mine and it works great.

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[RAU03MACH]

why don't you people just put a washer behind the ball stud? i seem to remember doing that with mine and it works great.

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That's funny
I remember when the ball stud on my mach1 was jacked up
Jegs sent me a new ball stud with washer

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

Hi all the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing all changed but unfortunately the rattling sound is still there. The exhaust system has been checked and it all good and not hitting anything. If it was a rod knocking how long would it last?
I've now done over 1000 miles and the sound is still the same, it hasn't got any worst

 

[07GtS197]

It would’ve gotten worse by now. You’ll have to keep looking around the motor. I had a spun bearing in my 00 gt years ago and it progressed pretty quickly.


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[Adam Vinnicombe]

May I ask how quickly?

 

[Silver95bird]

Like days or weeks, not months and years.

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[Silver95bird]

is it louder on one side? maybe pull that valve cover then and see if a lash adjuster collapsed/clogged. does it sound like the noise you get for like 4 seconds on startup right after an oil/ filter change? or a chain tensioner that clogged with sludge?

wasn't it oldh2s who had the video of one he pulled apart?

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[Silver95bird]

listened to your video again. especially the feathering the throttle one sounds like it could be a lash adjuster.

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[Adam Vinnicombe]

I have to be honest I don't recall what the engine sounded like when u first started her other the oil change. The sound is hard to pin point due to it echoing but it's either coming from the back of the engine / Bell house area or the rear left side of the engine number 8 cylinder. The colder the engine the easier it is to get it to make the sound but after 30 minutes of driving its almost impossible to get it to make the sound when floating the throttle in neutral but I can always get it to make the rattling sound when driving although it gets a lot harder to do once 5he engine has warmed up.
I'm about to do a 120 mile trip in a minute and I will see how she goes

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

Well just done another 132 miles. Once again there was no rattling sound for the first few minutes of starting her up and driving cold, then the rattling started and it is definitely speed related the faster I go the faster the rattle (in time with the engine rpm) on the motorway the engine performed spot on with just a little quite rpm related rattle. U sat at 70-80 mph most of the drive but was sitting at a constant 110mph for a few miles and she didn't blow up. At the end of the drive which was just over 2 hours I hit town traffic and although the rattling sound was still there it was very hard to find that spot where the engine rattles and even when I did get it to rattle it was very faint and quite. She is now at another gauge been looked over and having a cylinder compression check done plus some other work and will not be ready for a week. I hope they find something I just want to know what this rpm rattle is

 

[ForeverDriven]

Well if the rattle progressively got worse the faster you went, it could be related to the RPMs but that's probably not the main issue. If your pushing 4000 RPMs at 40 with a moderate rattle and then pushing 4000 RPMs at 110 with a really fast rattle, one thing that could tell you is that it's an exterior noise that harmonizes with your engine vibration around that engine speed, which could be a really easy fix.

If not that, it could be related to your engine load. Obviously 4K at 40 and 4k at 110 require different amounts power from the engine, cruising or full throttle. I dont know what kind of issue would cause a load-related rattle, so it could be a super easy or super hard fix. Hard to tell.

Either way, if you dont have an engine code, the engine itself runs fairly smoothly, and the rattle hasn't actually gotten any worse, I would stop worrying about engine internals. When they start to go, they go quickly. If it hasn't changed with 1130 miles, your vital engine components are fine.

A lot of shops like to just stick the car in their garage and go through the RPMs with a diagnostic tool. Tell them they are welcome to bring it out and drive it for a while to listen for themselves.

 

[07GtS197]

Have the shop check the oil pressure with a gauge too. I’m also thinking lash adjusters but it could also be low oil pressure causing the lash adjusters to collapse. Either way though I don’t think its serious.


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[Adam Vinnicombe]

One other thing I forgot to mention was that if I was at a nice cruising speed say in fifth gear doing 60mph and was to down sift into fourth the rattling nose went mad.

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

Right had the phone call today about the engine rattle, theyvdont know what it is
It's not the gearbox, clutch or anything to do with the transmission. It's not an exhaust leak or exhaust knocking on anything. It is definitely something wrong with the engine.
Compression test results in cylinder order from 1 to 8
175
175
178
176
174
177
175
176
They failed to do an oil pressure test which has annoyed me.
There was no metal in the oil or filter.
There is no rattling on a cold start up.
There is no rattling or knocking at idle at all from cold to hot.
The held the rpm steady for 20 second form 1000 to 5500 rpm in 200 rpm steps and now rattling at all.
They floated the rpm up and down and the only time they could get the rattle to show its self when in neutral was when they floated the rpm between 1,800 to 2,200 rpm.
Next they went for a drive, no rattling at all when at a stable/steady rpm below 1,700 rpm.
But as soon as they tried to hold a steady rpm above 1700 in any gear the rattling started and the fast the engine rpm was the faster the rattling.
Once the engine started to rattling they slowly increased the rpm and manged to get the rattling sound to go all the way to 5000 rpm in all gears but if the accelerated to hard the rattling would stop.
Now this is what is confusing them, they start accelerating hard no nosie easy of the accelerator and start a cruse condition and the rattling starts so then they dip the clutch rev the engine and ingage the clutch again and no rattling althe the car is still doing the same speed, same engine rpm and in the same gear.
I'm loosing it now with this car.
Can a lifter collapse when only at a light pedal setting/ cruse condition?

 

[07GtS197]

Yes because they are sensative to oil pressure which increases/decreases with rpm and load.


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[Adam Vinnicombe]

Please forgive me if this is a stupid question but I'm still learning. So will the oil pressure be lower when cruising light engine load when compared to a high engine load? For example in 3rd gear at a constant 3000rpm on a flat road when compared to a constant 3000rpm in 3rd gear going up a steep hill

 

[lwarrior1016]

Oil pressure is rpm related, not load related. Revving in neutral will result in the same pressure as driving down the road.