Rod knock/spun bearing

[OLD H2S]

WRONG.. It's metric and FREEDOM UNITS!

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

Well here's the photos of the 8 rod bearings in order from 1 to 8. Can you lot see anything wrong?
I couldn't find a single rod with any up and down play, they all had forward and backwards play

 

[lwarrior1016]

Those definitely don’t look like they were the problem. You had some trash pass through a couple of them, but they don’t look bad.

Also, the bolts are torque to yield but many guys have reused them and not had any trouble.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Are you going to try to do the mains now? Check them one at a time?

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

Can you get the mains out with the engine still in the car?

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

Do 8 need to buy new end caps cause the bolts as a part of the caps?

 

[Silver95bird]

You can't buy replacements on cracked end connecting rods.
And if you remove the main bearing caps one by one, you should at least be able to tell if one of them spun. At this point, there's not much to lose.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

[lwarrior1016]

The bolts should be able to press out, or be tapped out. The rod caps cannot be replaced, like silver said, and they are directional. They only install one way, please please please pay attention to that.

For the mains, I’m thinking you can get them out one at a time. Don’t forget the side bolts and the jacking screws that are on the caps.

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

What are the jacking screws for?
Yes I've marked which way each end cap cap of, they all ready has a white line on them all on one side only

 

[lwarrior1016]

That’s the jack screw. It is accessed through the side bolt hole in the block, and uses a big Allen wrench to tighten it down. You have to screw those in to get them off.

 

[Silver95bird]

The jacking screws add ridigity to the block while also keeping the main from walking around. Also very good for NVH, which was a main consideration in modular design.

They're a big improvement over standard 2 bolt mains.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

OK so you have to screw them in to get them of and put to lock it.
I'm still a little nervous about removing the main caps.
Can any one post up a link of where I can get the rod and main cap bolts please there is nowhere in the UK that sells them.
Also if I find nothing wrong with the main bearings as well what else could cause cylinder 8 to rattle when I float the rpm around 2000 when in neutral and when at a light throttle setting while driving above 2000 rpm

 

[ttocs]

if you need help getting parts there let me know. I don't mind filling out the customs form for used parts

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

Cheers mate. It looks like I'm going to need rod end cap bolts and the main cap bolts. I'm still pretty scared of taking the main bearings out. Would a main bearing actually cause the issue I have?

 

[lwarrior1016]

You could always order arp studs for the mains and bolts for the rods. I’m not sure if the main bearing will cause this issue or not, but the metal came from somewhere. I guess it could be a bad wrist pin.

 

[OLD H2S]

I agree, this is why the knock was so hard to trace, but this opens a new can of worms.
1. If money was no problem what would you do?
- Keep it?
- Dump it?
- I love it and I will keep it forever... stockish?
- What are you allowed to do or change?
- MOT problems?
We are not familiar with your possibilities.

 

[96blak54]

Ive never had a problem re-using / retorquing the rod bolts.

 

[Adam Vinnicombe]

So its looking like I'm going to have to pull the motor and do a full strip down
What I want, what I'm allowed, what I can afford, what will I need they are all good questions and something I'm going to think about today. If I find damage to the cylinders is that the end of the block?

 

[OLD H2S]

You got a lot of cousins standing buy..

 

[ttocs]

like I said above don't be afraid to hit me up if you need parts shipped out there. I know how they tax you when you get new parts so no need for that crap.