Rod knock/spun bearing

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Adam Vinnicombe

Adam Vinnicombe

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like I said above don't be afraid to hit me up if you need parts shipped out there. I know how they tax you when you get new parts so no need for that crap.
Thanks ttocs I will be taking you up on your offer
 
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Adam Vinnicombe

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Right I've been thinking what I want out if the car and I've actually come up with an answer.
The car is a
weekend/ good weather fun car.
It must be able to drive in town traffic.
It must be safe cause my kids travel in it.
It must sound good and it does at the moment.
I want a slightly rougher Idle so stage two cams.
I'm not chasing power at all and it will never see a race track but it must be able to shut up the boy racers in the BMWs and civic's.
In the end I do want to fit a super charger but not after ever last HP.
Power wise at the moment it should be 260 BHP would live to be around the 400 Mark. I already have long tube header, 4.10 gears, aluminium prop shaft and a diabolo sport 97 Ron tune. Now what engine parts will I need if I want to achieve a goal of around 400 BHP?
 

Silver95bird

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Well as i see it, youve got two options.

1) A take out engine from an Explorer/mountaineer. it's 85lbs lighter than the iron block, which is great for weight distribution and handling. Its an equal to the stock GT block in terms of rods/pistons/crank, so it should be okay for less than 400 rwhp. Take out, drop in, done.

If that doesnt work, I'd choose:
A) any iron block PI engine (same as your current setup)
B) an NPI engine for a head swap of your current heads on to. (more work, slightly better power/efficiency)
C) an NPI engine as a drop in. (same as A but less power).

2) Building a cheap forged bottom end. This is very dependent on if you can get the parts and work done at a reasonable price, and reliably so. Unless you have done it before, it may be a little daunting.

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Adam Vinnicombe

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Unfortunately in the UK we dounr have the Explorer/mountaineer.
I'm totally new to this so I'm going to ask a dum question what is a pi and npi engine
 
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Adam Vinnicombe

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I've just noticed that a post of mine I typed out the other day is not on here so don't know where that's gone.
Basically I found something else out, don't know if it means anything or points to something but all the info I can give you the better the response can be.
Now as said earlier, if I disconnect the injectors or spark plugs one at a time starting with number one the rattling sound was constant until I disconnected number 5 and the rattling sound got deeper and heavier and eased again when number 5 was allowed to fire, then when number 8 was disconnected the rattling stopped all together. Does this mean anything?
 

OLD H2S

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I say wrist pin and a piston that is not round and tight anymore. I had the same problem and it took me a while to figure it out.
 
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Adam Vinnicombe

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Right I've measured up the crank/ conrod journals anf and in order they are
53.04 mm
53.04 mm
53.03mm
53.03 mm
53.05 mm
53.05 mm
53.04mm
53.03 mm
in old money that is 2.088" to 2.089"
All the cylinders have a shine to them but they are all smooth and no abnormal marks. With plugs out all pistons move nice and easy, with plugs in they are all a pain in the arse to move. I've wiggled all the rods and can feel NO play at all in the wrist pins/ small ends. There is no end float on the crank.
I'm going to buy some rod bearings and put it back together, if it works it proves it was a rod bearing if it doesn't the engine is coming out
 
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Adam Vinnicombe

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Hi all can some one tell me the purpose of this golden coloured piece in the photo which goes in the. I can't get it to fit flush again cause it's hitting the two finger plates that are welded to the sump
 

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Silver95bird

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did they use two gaskets or did they just shove that in there? how did it fit in before?

That's not stock.
The picture is becoming clearer.

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Adam Vinnicombe

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Yes it was on the sump when I took it off.
It had a gasket either side, one on top and one below.
 
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Adam Vinnicombe

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If I force it flat it warps massively cause it hits the two strange finger plants that are welded to the sump and what are they for? Also there is a drain plug at the front of the pan as well any ideas what thst is for?
 

Silver95bird

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My first thing would be to ask the previous owner who rebuilt the engine. My second would be to go there and punch whoever did it. lol

the screen is probably intended to work with the two pan flaps pounded down. amazing it wasnt hitting the rotating assembly (or was it?) in there.

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Silver95bird

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additional thought

stock oil pickup +
(added tray and gaskets = lower bottom of the pan) = oil starvation


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Adam Vinnicombe

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My first thing would be to ask the previous owner who rebuilt the engine. My second would be to go there and punch whoever did it. lol

the screen is probably intended to work with the two pan flaps pounded down. amazing it wasnt hitting the rotating assembly (or was it?) in there.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

That would not be funny if it was the windage tray hitting the rotating parts
 
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Adam Vinnicombe

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additional thought

stock oil pickup +
(added tray and gaskets = lower bottom of the pan) = oil starvation

I see what your saying but the oil level was always correct on the dipstick and that is at the stock hight so shouldn't the oil level still be high enough for the oil pick up pipe to was as it should?

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Adam Vinnicombe

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So I have a aftermarket windage tray and a return line for a turbo set up, Im starting to think that this engine may for been racing at some point.
I've been in contact with the previous owner and he said he hadn't touch the engine since he imported it from the states
I'm not going to refit it when I put it all back together. I've been doing some reading and my engine just doesn't need it. I wonder what else the bloke in the states change?
 

lwarrior1016

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That’s a mighty fine question. Can you get a picture of the pistons? Maybe see if there is a part number on them?
 
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Adam Vinnicombe

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I will be able to get a photo of the bottom of them getting one of the top side may be a little difficult
 

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