Rustang Recovery. Red 94 v6 auto fixed w/ help of a 99 V6 5speed

caldeio

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Got this for 300. Owner didnt know anything about it, bought it from "estate" sale. Had no keys, was completely loaded with junk and had algae growing on it. On the tow home found out, tranny and rearend was locked up. Rear end was rusty from what i could see.

Now forward to today..
Runs and stays running. Revs and moves a few feet at least.
Transmission works
Rearend is free and moving
Breaks work
Got new seat of key for ignition and door locks. Still need trunk lock.
Cleaned and steam cleaned interior
Taped off the radio headunit wiring until i can fix it from the hackjob it was.

Bad...
Trunk rust
Underbody rust
Frame rails rust

Doing wire brush to it, and then sand it all out. Next ill por15 the whole underbody and the interior up to the rear seats for sure. Thinking of doing everything at some point.


Replaced fuel filter thinking it was leaking but its actucally coming from right above it on the fuel tank to filter line?? I'm not for sure yet, dropping gastank now. Ill upload pics soon.:headbang:
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White 99 v6 5spd time!:headbang:
Low speed impact in the passenger headlight area. Whole core support and aprons needs replaced. Have one headlight and drivers fender still in good shape. Engine, and radiator are still good. K-member might not be.

Has some mods!
8.8 rear and some shocks? Im not sure?
Ill post more as i go

Barely any rust underside and low miles. I can use everything off this car.
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caldeio

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Got enough for a welder next week or so 8/26 Thinking spare tire delete, with a new trunk floor. Frame braces and reinforcement with 2x3 tubing and flat plate. Maybe mini tub it.
 
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caldeio

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I'm thinking red too! if the rust is workable then i wont have to chop the front off.
I do not like red, yellow, or vert stangs. :deeplist:

My 99 has a 8.8 rearend! its about to storm but i know the 7.5 gasket didnt fit when i change the diff fluid to lucas stuff. it looks way different than the 7.5 in the red stang so it must be a 8.8.

Also the 99 has yellow shocks and yellow poly bushings? Ill take pic. Could be stockers painted yellow during the diff swap. Hmm
3FEemta.jpg
 
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caldeio

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I don't think they are! :( It is hard to see though...Gonna drop the gastank on the 99 next so I'll for sure find out!
Ok so I dropped the 94 gastank finally. Fuel pump pickup is completely rusted to the tank, and the lines just broke right off at the pickup. So I'm gonna check out my 99 tank and see if I can make it work. If not I'm gonna get a fuel cell with a bottom sump.

New fuel lines are $120 8an feed and 6an return, all russel brand stuff so far. Half is line cost and half is fittings.

Clean up the inside and exterior body panels that had rust then spray everything with rustoleam rust spray paint for now. Tomorrow I'll hit it with a top coat. I need to get some more and start prepping the underneath for paint (por15)

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new pics soon!
 

lutter94

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Looking forward to progress, on either of the cars! That 99 t5 would work great behind a 5.0 in the 94

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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caldeio

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Got the fuel pump out! Destroyed the lock ring, but not the lock! Whoever put the pump assembly in ripped the sock lol. Gonna check local junkyard to see if they have a fuel pump bracket for under 40$ that's in good condition. More than that and I can get one off ebay. I think for about this same price I can get someone else to weld me new tubes and AN fittings on. I don't think there's anywhere local to me that can though. It's like 10miles to the nearest grocery store. 15 to a walmart. Anyways!!!

Return line where it connects at the fuel pump broke off. Also wonder if I can go returnless? Gonna need some more fuel line for a return than I thought.

Inside of gastank is clean! There is some junk that fell in from me or from before that I'll clean out.

Until then I'm going to town on that underbelly rust!
 

lutter94

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Until then I'm going to town on that underbelly rust!

How will you attack that? I just experimented with POR15 on a receiver hitch, and like the way it turned out, curious for other options before I undercoat mine. Obvi yours will take a little more prep than I expect mine to, lol.
 
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caldeio

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Ok this doesn't include that I will have some welding to do later!

First I use a hand held wire brush to get all the loose scale off so I don't get rust in my eyes.

Then I'm going to use my angle grinder with some flap sanding pads. 120 grit is enough to take it to bare metal fast. I have 60 and 36 to test with if i need them. I'll hit all the really bad areas that are left and lightly hit all everything that has surface rust.

Last I'll coat everything with por15! It doesn't need to be perfect, like take the white 99 mustang for instance, I'd just wire brush it and then paint! Also if the angle grinder isn't doing a good enough job, I can buy some por15 metal prep and it converts the rust to zinc then I'll do a quick wire brush and then paint.

All of my interior rust I hit with Rustoleam paint that converts rust and then hit it with Valspar paint that is paint and primer because it was laying around. I'll go over it at a later time with the angle grinder and then paint the rear completely with POR15. I should be ordering that next week or the week after.

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Ok update!

I was thinking of doing 6AN on the fuel hat itself, by bulkheads or welding. I already de-soldered the tubes and drilled it but I think I won a fuel pump bracket with a cheap ebay 255lph pump. It's a good enough deal that I'm going to get it and get EFI adapter to AN fittings.

I haven't decided on the hose material yet but it's all the same price pretty much unless you all know a good deal? But 3 feet for feed and return to get to the fuel filter area should be enough. Gonna 6an to efi adapter into the OEM type fuel filter since I don't think the fuel lines leak past this(if so I'll buy some steel line to do this). Honestly I'm gonna check the prices of fittings at an auto store anyways. I'll buy some straight steel line if I can.

The return line broke off at the area above the fuel filter too so If I don't buy hardline. I'll get a 6an to hardline 5/16 adapter for the return? I'll have to get the calipers out to measure all this stuff


Gonna order POR15 within the next two weeks or so.
Gotta decide on how much to get...
 

lutter94

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POR15 will cover a lot more than you expect. Idk how much you plan to do, but I think 1 qt is def a safe bet. If you used a whole gallon, I would shit a brick.
 
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caldeio

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POR15 will cover a lot more than you expect. Idk how much you plan to do, but I think 1 qt is def a safe bet. If you used a whole gallon, I would shit a brick.
Sweet! I'm gonna start with a quart, and if I need more I'll get it. If I got the gallon and used only a quarts worth I'd be mad lol :p (well and the can would seal itself shut or the rest would go bad you know)

So how are you 94-98 guys on hood scoops? I have a gt scoop from my 99, I sprayed it gloss black. I can't decide whether it'd look good enough or if I should sell it. I always wanted to do the M112 supercharger swap but I don't think the hood scoop would clear anyways.
 
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DO NOT PUT THAT SCOOP ON THE SN95 IF YOURE BUILDING THAT...




if its for the new edge go for itll look tits


also if your trunk doesnt have any holes in it DO NOT PUT HOLE IN IT

only and i mean





ONLY...

if you pick this up from my good buddy brett

https://btifab.com/signature-line/1999-2004-mustang/1999-2004-ducktail-wing/

check out his thread on svtp if you want more info. its called "ducktail nascar spoiler"

and yes you have to get it in cf

 

lutter94

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I'm all for putting a stock sn95 gt spoiler on a hole-less trunk! But I wouldn't recommend using new edge body parts on a 94.
 

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