Seijirou's '94 GT "Faster than White's"

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
Faster than White's
My Fair Weather Drift, HPDE, and keyboard warrior toy!

MVIMG_20180426_185654.jpg

IMG_20180403_194558.jpg

MVIMG_20180403_194456.jpg


So I've seen enough of white playing with his toy that I simultaneously feel like some kind of creep stalker and got the gumption to get back in the saddle of my own project, because someone's gotta show this boy that he's slow ;)

The above pics and video are actually from ~4 years ago before several moves for life and work that had me mothball the car. The wife and I have been building a little pit crew since then though so it works out.

Chassis
• '94 SN95 GT Body
• Kenny Brown Matrix Brace

Engine
• '94 9.5 deck roller block .030 over
• CHP stroker kit.
• 3.85 crank, cast, 3" mains
• I beam rods, forged
• -15cc pistons, forged
• Compression about 10:1
• Victor Jr heads, 60cc, as cast
• Victor EFI 5.8 intake (#3887)
• Comp xe282hr cam (0.565/0.574, 232/240 @.050, 112 LCA, 108 ICL)
• Comp rockers, 1.6:1
• Hooker LT headers (1 7/8" 30" primaries, 3" collectors)
• Siemens 80# injectors

Brains
• Megasquirt MS3
• 60-2 crank trigger, hall effect
• Batch fire injection
• Wasted spark ignition, GM D585 "truck" coils
• Dual widebands, 14point7 Spartan II

Driveline
• T56 Magnum 2.66
• Mcleod RST Twin Disc clutch
• AJE T56 crossmember
• 3.08 gears

Suspension
• '03 IRS
• MM Bushings
• MM Tie Rods
• Bilstein shocks, MM grooved
• MM coilovers (not sure on the springs, I think Eibach..)
• Agent47 SLA
• Modified 99-03 spindles
• Solid bushed, heim joints
• MM bumpsteer
• JRi coilover shocks
• Hypercoil springs

Exterior
• Cervini Y2KR style hood, fiberglass
• '94 Cobra front bumper
• Kaenan T1 spoiler, fiberglass

Probably most anything else you can see for yourself.

On to the work! There's quite a bit to do, and one of the 1st things I need to knock out is some clean-up. The car has done a fair amount of just sitting without climate control and it's really taking it's toll on the manifolds and exposed aluminum. The car has also gone through a lot of wiring modifications done in spurts here and there as it's transitioned from factory ECU, to Megasquirt, to TFI deleted direct coil control w/ distributor, to the current state of using a crank trigger with 8 coils in wasted spark and that again is going to change. I have a cam sync for a 9.5 deck coming from 64bittuning which will get the big distributor out of the way, and also give me the cam signal that I need to run sequential ignition and fuel. I don't need to do that, but I may do it anyway. The coils will also be moving to the valve covers from their current home, up where the factory air filter and battery used to be.
There's a fair amount of factory wiring that is no longer used that I've just left in place. The TFI module is still actually bolted in the stock location though hasn't been used in years. The harnesses are also worse for the wear, though the wires are fine. I'll be tearing them down, removing what isn't needed, and getting them back in shape with fresh loom and tape.
It also has a Canton road-race oil pan that has leaked since day 1. I will be finding and fixing that leak, and then deciding if I want to keep it or change to the FRPP M-6675-DRS351, which is the pan that MM actually recommends. The drains are also in better locations, though there's no reason I can't just move them in the Canton.
Next is going to be brakes, wheels, and tires. The front suspension is unusual so there's not a lot of guidance to start from. It has an IRS in the back which we probably all know is wider than the factory axle, well the SLA in the front is even wider still. The wheel base is also extended like forward offset control arms would do. I would like to run a square wheel and tire setup with maybe some 315's on 18" wheels all around, but we'll see what I can make work. Once thing that's nice about the SLA is the coilover is further inboard than a strut sits so combined with the wider track width I can probably get away with more positive offset wheels than typical. I've ordered a fitment tool to assist with that. For brakes I'm not sure yet. Something in at least 14", and I have a hydroboost conversion to do while the engine is out. Also brake ducts. On the wheels it's really going to depend on what I come up with for measurements and then what is offered that's close. I like the Enkei RPF1 though.

Other things in no particular order. Everything related to the fuel system that isn't already attached to the intake. Fuel cell? Maybe. Better trunk mount battery job. Interior cleanout and painting. Cage.. maybe tube the front at the same time? Possibly a rear gear change. IRS cooler. Headers acid dipped and re-coated. New exhaust mid-pipe and mufflers. Revisit intake design - likely will not work with coils moved to valve covers. Upper intake porting to match TB or change intake to carb style with 4150 throttle body? Y2K front bumper or something I can run a splitter with. Blank rear bumper just because I prefer blank. Paint and a little body work.

Step 1, out with the drivetrain.

20220329_163047.jpg

20220330_174107.jpg
 

joemomma

Active Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2020
Messages
704
Reaction score
329
Nice build - she sounds pretty rowdy. You drop that out the bottom?
 

ttocs

Post Whore
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
29,612
Reaction score
4,467
Location
Evansville Indiana
white has already posted the data to show that all he needs to do to make the car faster is to replace the driver so is this car faster than with him driving it, or with someone else driving it? :)
 
OP
OP
seijirou

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
Nice build - she sounds pretty rowdy. You drop that out the bottom?

Nope, came out the front. I put the other half of the car that high and removed the hood after snapping that goofy tilted shot. You bring the motor forward and up inch by inch and let the tailshaft droop farther and farther as you go. Once it's about halfway out you start letting the nose of the car back down. Then use the balance bar to get the transmission back up after the oil pan clears the core support. That's typically all there is to it, but if you have of these extra wide "T" shaped oil pans you'll also pause to take the passenger side header off when it's halfway out, because you need to shift things to the passenger side to get the pan clear of the driver's side motor mount pad.
 
OP
OP
seijirou

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
white has already posted the data to show that all he needs to do to make the car faster is to replace the driver so is this car faster than with him driving it, or with someone else driving it? :)

...Yes :cool:
 
OP
OP
seijirou

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
Little by little. Engine on the stand. Clutch is going back to mcleod for a rebuild. I have half a mind to change the flywheel to aluminum while it's out, and the bellhousing to the quicktime steel unit.

1648868212077.png

1648868241096.png


1648868276357.png
 
OP
OP
seijirou

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
Little cleaning, enough to take the valve covers off without worrying about grime.

1649127674648.png

Different valve covers to mount the coils.
1649127730390.png

Freshened up the coils' wiring harness.
1649127770405.png
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
seijirou

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
I reached out to McLeod about getting the clutch rebuilt. Also decided to change to an aluminum flywheel while I'm at it. McLeod is currently showing a 30 day turnaround time on clutch rebuilds! But I've got more than 30 days ahead of me here anyway.

Found a coating place that will refurbish the long tubes. They've done some incredible work with some pieces in worse shape than mine and I can't beat the price either. I'm going to drop them my pullies, brackets, motor mounts, oil pan, intake, and valve covers while I'm at it. I'm going to keep it a simple silver and black I think but open to suggestions.

I was short some cap screws for the other valve cover to mount the coils so I think I'm just going to get a new set of 16 matching stainless ones and toss the others in the spare bolts drawer. Then the engine and transmission harnesses need to be refurbished. I need to add the coil circuits to the engine harness. Previously my coils were mounted up behind the headlights so I made a long separate harness for them. Pic of one of those shadetree brackets at the bottom when I was still ironing out the conversion from a distributor to a crank trigger with coil packs. It looks funny but it was dirt cheap and got the job done, ended up working for years too lol.

After the wiring I think I'll work on the crankcase vacuum pump. Once that's sorted out the engine should be pretty well sorted so I can take it all back apart and send out for powder coat, and then get the work in the engine bay.

That pic I promised..
1649128607995.png
 
OP
OP
seijirou

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
Just had a couple minutes to clean and toss on the other coils and then see how the upper intake fitment was looking. The throttle bracket interferes just slightly with one of the coil connectors so I'm going to give it a trim. This car will never have an automatic in it anyway so I don't care about the TV cable provision.

Also a little difficult to make out in the pic but the intake tubing is hard in to the #1 coil pack. It's all silicone so it gives and isn't going to hurt anything, but I think I'm going to see if I can't find that upper elbow in a 45, and then run a straight shot to another 45 before the filter.

1649213284153.png


1649213303719.png

1649213335639.png
 
OP
OP
seijirou

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
Been busy with things other than the car lately but stole away some time afternoon to work on the vacuum pump bracket. Cutting from some aluminum billet, started by cutting it down to 1/8" oversize in every dimension, then finishing the work on the mini mill. Quick video taking a 10-thousandths pass off one side, and a pic of a finished side.


1649731741666.png
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
seijirou

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
Crankcase vacuum pump lined up. Need to get the larger pulley that it will actually use and then put the engine back in the car temporarily and check clearances. It's mounted where the smog pump originally was but hangs a little farther out the side. Also need to get a proper length bolt for the bottom so I don't need to stack a mile of washers.

1649891569857.png


1649891628006.png
 

95opal

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
2,444
Reaction score
536
OG stangnet member? Name sounds familiar
 
OP
OP
seijirou

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
Cleaning. A little before and after. Bagged all the electrical connectors.
Unfortunately the white paint itself is actually washing off, that's why some things look almost soapy in the after shots.
Also some rust to take care of on the driver's frame rail but not bad. It's begging to get forward of the strut towers cut off and re-done done in tube...

1650672471389.png


1650672593192.png

1650672668021.png

1650672733438.png

1650672773257.png

1650672825176.png

1650672860719.png
 
OP
OP
seijirou

seijirou

New Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
44
Reaction score
42
Clutch came back from McLeod, freshly rebuilt.
Also a "cam sync" to take the place of the distributor. The distributor hasn't been doing anything but driving the oil pump for a long time now. The sensor on top gives me the option of sending camshaft position info to megasquirt so I could convert to sequential ignition and/or fuel injection if I wanted to. It might help with hot starts but I doubt it would otherwise make any difference.

In the picture it looks different but the height from the seating position to the gear on both is the same. The shaft on the cam sync however stops quite a bit short of the reach that the distributor had. Eyeballing things it looks like there is still plenty of engagement with the oil pump but I'm going to try to figure out how much exactly anyway.

1650844628563.png

1650844652417.png
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
76,114
Messages
1,470,563
Members
14,076
Latest member
Benne02

Members online

Top