ok so i got my 95 5.0 about a month or so ago, was not running replaced distributor and got it to run not well but it ran(shook alot), but was not timed correctly at all. so tonight i got it set right, triple checked all the wires. there all correct. i brought it up to tdc. took dizzy out set rotor to number one cylinder plug. witch is facing the intake manifold.the 0 degree mark lined up with the pointer.. took the pill out. marked 10 btdc, fired it up set it to 10 btdc started missing than put pill back in and it got even worse. if i retard the timing it clears up. i also replace plugs and wires so i know there all good. i re did the timing set up 3 times and came up with same results . i am at a complete loss here. can anyone give me ideas. i feel its something dumb. just cant figure it out. thanks people for your time.
im looking right out of the chilton manual. also online. , i will say i read up on somethings and the balancer has rubber sticking out the back, people say it could have spun. if that was true than all the timing marks would be incorrect.
yeah and thats a common problem too. set timing where it sounds good. a way you can do it to get it close it get it running with the bolt loose hold rev at 1500 and punch it. wherever it moves to is close to the 10 degrees. usually more like 12
A couple suggestions . Take a plug out make sure your piston is at TDC ( use a piston stop if you have one or make one out of a old plug ) Make sure your distributor cap inside isn't burnt up or broke off the piece I'm referring too is the "Carbon Button" . This issue isn't because of where the timing is set at your car should run fine at 10 btc although it might not be the best for your setup or it could be that's for you to tell. Read your plugs make sure they are gapped correctly and they aren't fouled out . You mentioned a pill I'm taking your running a MSD? If so I'll bet you that the MSD is the problem cause their junk hands down the product is simply not what it used to be . Yes they look cool and say MSD in fancy logos but does it work? Removing my MSD was the best descion I ever made and cheapest ! Check your wiring to your distributor . As for your total timing on a small block ford it should be around 32-38 total on most applications . 36 seems to be the magic number on most . Hope this helps you out Good Luck! God Bless! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A spun HB will definately throw off the timing marks and can also cause the shaking you described. I assume the "pill" is the spout connector. It sounds like your on the right track. replace the HB, set the timing and get back to us.
Not to take over ops thread... But im pretty sure my timing is advanced at 14*. Now i have a sct chip and they said to put the timing to 10* stock. Im assuming the chip advances the timing, but should i move it back or leave it? Would it make a difference in power or...?
When adding performance they will advance the timing . For instance look at an aftermarket ignition system such as an HEI. They will tell you to advance your timing ( usually a few degrees past stock ) for better performance. Too much timing is bad And not enough timing is bad. I say leave it where it's at. If your happy with the car and it's not pinging or hard to start then your timing is OK. And yes it will add performance. Hope this helps God Bless Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Car does not ping but, as of recent, she has been dieing randomly at around idle and the idle jumped to 1100 rpms after the chip.
Ok so I replaced the HB and holy crap was it bad. It fixed the running issue and shaking issue. It was spun and the center got pushed back. , I still have a 500-1000 rpm hike in between shifts. No vaccum leak. And throttle position sensor is newer. I took all sensors out and cleaned them still does the same.
Glad you're up and running. The ECU has a goofy strategy that increases RPM to help match shifts. Not sure if that's what going on with yours.
I have never heard of a stock ecu having a feature like that. I have herd of people who are really in to autox or drag getting a ecu modified with some sort if rev match... It also holds throttle even when I'm not shifting. You hit the gas and let off and about 3 seconds later you feel the throttle back off.
Put the timing back to 10.. all the timing advance is done on the chip Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk
There is no way to tell unless you run it on the track or dyno Enviado usando mi SHP-L710 usando TapaTalk