Setting timing

[1994Gtmustang]

Help me understand can you to set the timing all the marks when doing the timing on your 94-95 mustang GT before you pull the distributor out that way all the time it is already set correct? If I’m explaining this correctly, if everything is set before pointing out the distributor for whatever reason you won’t have to do it when you install the new one, right

 

[white95]

So, are we looking to check the timing before you advance/retard it OR setting it after replacing/removing the distributor?

Mark the position of the rotor in the cap before you pull it and when you install the new one it should line up unless you rolled the engine.

 

[ttocs]

as he said just make sure the rotor is pointing at the same plug wire on the cap as when it stopped. But with that being said at that point when the dist is loose it takes 5 secs to pull the spout, hook up the timing light and dial it in perfect before you tighten the dist back down

 

[1994Gtmustang]

So why do people make it so difficult? I’ve done many timing chain jobs. I always said as long as you install the same way when you took out the original one. but you watch videos and Ford make it seem so difficult long as the crank Mark is a top dead center and the rotor cap pointer is faced at number one cylinder from when you first took the original one out everything should be fine. I don’t understand why people make it so difficult.

 

[1994Gtmustang]

So, are we looking to check the timing before you advance/retard it OR setting it after replacing/removing the distributor?

Mark the position of the rotor in the cap before you pull it and when you install the new one it should line up unless you rolled the engine.

Yes, I’m taking the original distributor out to replace the PIP sensor

 

[NXcoupe]

So why do people make it so difficult? I’ve done many timing chain jobs. I always said as long as you install the same way when you took out the original one. but you watch videos and Ford make it seem so difficult long as the crank Mark is a top dead center and the rotor cap pointer is faced at number one cylinder from when you first took the original one out everything should be fine. I don’t understand why people make it so difficult.

No one can make hooking up three wires of a timing light and matching.up marks difficult. I'm not following you. You always need to check your timing after removing the distributor. It's not a step to skip as it's quite important to the proper operation of your pride and joy. Marking it and followimg what the other guys said just gets you in the ballpark. 2 or 3 degrees out can mean the difference between safe, proper operation and detonation on the crap fuel we have today. Please don't skip this step.

 

[1994Gtmustang]

No one can make hooking up three wires of a timing light and matching.up marks difficult. I'm not following you. You always need to check your timing after removing the distributor. It's not a step to skip as it's quite important to the proper operation of your pride and joy. Marking it and followimg what the other guys said just gets you in the ballpark. 2 or 3 degrees out can mean the difference between safe, proper operation and detonation on the crap fuel we have today. Please don't skip this step.

I agree 100%. Wish me luck and thank everybody for their response

 

[weendoggy]

As mentioned, not difficult and getting it back in the "exact same place" is either luck or magic! Also remember that #1 can be put anywhere you want on the distributor, it doesn't know any better. You just have to make sure your wires go to the correct plug.

For me, I tend to stay in the "normal" position of #1 as built, then check timing, everytime I pull or replace a distributor. Why? I'm just not that good to be perfect.

 

[ttocs]

I think some people look at it as an extra step that they do not want to buy the light to have it around for when they need it. As we have said there are three things to hook up on the light, pull the spout and then rotate a little bit. As long as you get the rotor back to close to the same spot it stopped it does not take long at all.

 

[Road_Runna]

No one can make hooking up three wires of a timing light and matching.up marks difficult. I'm not following you. You always need to check your timing after removing the distributor. It's not a step to skip as it's quite important to the proper operation of your pride and joy. Marking it and followimg what the other guys said just gets you in the ballpark. 2 or 3 degrees out can mean the difference between safe, proper operation and detonation on the crap fuel we have today. Please don't skip this step.

I have to agree, the slightest movement of clocking the dizzy will throw your timing off a little. I din't realize this until my pops gave me his timing light set. Now my idle and feel of the engine is smooth as butter.

 

[RAU03MACH]

the timing spout is another part for sure as TTOCS mentioned

 

[Randall Garner]

If your wanting to ensure the rotor is pointing correct. Timing pointer at balancer should be at TDC #1 cylinder compression stroke. Then your rotor should be on #1 in distributor cap. I mark the rotor to cap and a mark the distributor housing to the hold down clap. Then and when it goes back together, use those references . From there a final check with timing gun. To ensure it's correct per specs or if any aftermarket goodies. For easy starting, and no pinging under acceleration. Even then, the oil pump drive shaft could of moved. Even do. Once the gears engage. The engine can be hand rotated a bit in each direction to get the dizzy to seat fully. Do not use the starter for the oil pump engagement