Should I get a cam with GT40p heads and Explorer Intake?

[CrystalWhite]

Hey everyone! I've had my car parked for a while so I haven't been doing much with it and I am looking to do a little winter/spring work to be set for the summer.

The engine in my car is as it was from the previous owner. He claimed it had the following:
-GT40p heads (verified)
-Stock Intake "ported" (could be BS and does it really matter?)
-Different Rockers (I can't remember ratio since it was several years ago)
-Stock cam (No reason to believe otherwise)

I have not had a reason to pull the valve covers off yet to confirm what is in there for rockers and if those heads still have the stock valve springs or not because I have read this can be an issue with higher lift cams.

I have a dyno printout for 241 / 295 to the wheels. The HP curve maxes out at around 4800 rpm....not sure if this indicates anything at all. There are no other mods to the car other than full exhaust (shorty headers, bbk catted x-pipe and a magnaflow catback), UD pulleys, and a 255 l/hr fuel pump.

I am looking to install an Explorer intake that I have lying around and maybe installing a better cam at the same time (if there is any point). I have seen that there is no point porting/gasket matching the intake with stock gt40 heads because of the intake already out flowing the heads, so I am planning on cleaning it up and installing it as-is with an elbow on it, using the stock TB and MAF.

My long term plans for the car (probably 3-5 years away) is to eventually put together a 408 stroker and supporting mods. For now I am just trying to get the best bang for my buck and have something to cruise in on nice days and weekends. Any advice you guys have would be appreciated!

 

[ttocs]

I agree there is no need to port the intake if your keeping the stock maf/tb and if you can afford new cam then why not?

 

[CrystalWhite]

I agree there is no need to port the intake if your keeping the stock maf/tb and if you can afford new cam then why not?

I can "afford" a new cam if it's going to give me a noticeable increase in performance. I keep hearing that the stock cam is not that bad, but I really don't have any good information to go on.

I am also open to going with a 70 mm TB and MAF if that would debottleneck things, but if the heads can only flow so much then I don't know if I would just be throwing money away or not. I understand that the stock TB is 60 or 62 mm and the explorer has a 65 mm? I didn't think it would be that large of a restriction to keep the stock stuff.

 

[Magic]

Verify the rocker ratio. 1.6 or 1.7? This will dictate whether or not a cam install would be OK without having to take the heads off to check valve to piston clearance. Crane or TFS or Alex's Parts for the valve spring upgrade.

Stock MAF is already 70mm. Use a good brand throttle body, stay away from the Professional Products one.

You will get the most out of it (driveability, reliability, and a little extra power) with a tune, even if its a canned tune from a reputable 94-95 tuner.

 

[ttocs]

if everything is done correctly of course a cam will help with power. As he said you need to be sure what is in the car before you start adding more to it. Naturally getting more air to the heads and cam is needed for more power so a bigger maf will help as well. As he said a tune will also help both drivability and power but stay away from bama/amercan muscle there are better places to go if you can't get the car on a dyno.

 

[CrystalWhite]

I wish I could figure out rockers I have without having to pull the intake, but I can only see enough of them through the oil fill neck to tell they aren't stock. I will have to try to get a small inspection mirror in to take a look.

I am hoping to avoid a dyno tune for cost reasons and since I just moved here I have no idea what shops would even know how to properly tune a 94-95. I will likely have to look into mail order tunes when I do select a cam.

For a throttle body I would be keeping a eye on the classifieds for something decent or probably pick up a BBK one because it seems to be reasonably priced and I haven't seen anything about the quality being bad.

 

[ttocs]

I have done the canned tunes and they were just good enough to get me to the dyno to get it done right.

 

[evilcw311]

Talk to adder. For as little a difference as all this will make he can sell you a chip with a tune that should work pretty well.

It's a hell of a lot better than any mail order tune.


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[RichV]

My experience with the GT40 stuff and stock parts tells me you're right on par (hp/tq) with the listed mods. The power dropping off at 4800 may be due to the valve springs, so I'd pull a valve cover just to make sure they're upgraded. And while in there, may as well do a cam and the GT40 intake. The stock intake is crap above 3500, so that don't help either.

My dyno experience would put you in the 250-260 range with the GT40 intake (and valve springs if needed), and a bigger cam would see another 15 or so HP and a lot more usable RPM. I've seen a iron GT40 top end motor with a e303 pull 299HP on a dyno without tuning or port work. So I'd say go for it!!

 

[neverenuff]

Cam and gears are a night and day difference on a pushrod 5.0. Cannot go wrong with Ford Motorsports B cam, CARB legal E cam or trick flows camshaft. Definitely recommend checking piston to valve clearance.

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[evilcw311]

I like the b cam, but I might be biased. Shouldnt have clearance issues using the b cam and 1.7's


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[CrystalWhite]

My experience with the GT40 stuff and stock parts tells me you're right on par (hp/tq) with the listed mods. The power dropping off at 4800 may be due to the valve springs, so I'd pull a valve cover just to make sure they're upgraded. And while in there, may as well do a cam and the GT40 intake. The stock intake is crap above 3500, so that don't help either.

My dyno experience would put you in the 250-260 range with the GT40 intake (and valve springs if needed), and a bigger cam would see another 15 or so HP and a lot more usable RPM. I've seen a iron GT40 top end motor with a e303 pull 299HP on a dyno without tuning or port work. So I'd say go for it!!

This sounds almost too good to be true! Since I'm not driving it right now I'm going to pop the valve cover off in the next little while and see what I've got for springs/rockers. I am not sure how to tell if the springs are upgraded though. Are there any stampings or is it just the look of them?

I did some more research and there is a local shop here who apparently has a lot of experience tuning 90's Fords, so I am going to look into his prices before I look at getting a chip from Adder (who I also see good things about) or elsewhere.

evil, why do you prefer the B cam?

 

[evilcw311]

Good for na motors and creates a nice lower torque over factory.

Honestly tho is has a wicked sounding idle as well!!!!!


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[CrystalWhite]

Good for na motors and creates a nice lower torque over factory.

Honestly tho is has a wicked sounding idle as well!!!!!


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I always liked the sound of the idle with the B cam, but I hear people ragging on it for being an old design and not a good compared to other "newer" cams.

 

[evilcw311]

I always liked the sound of the idle with the B cam, but I hear people ragging on it for being an old design and not a good compared to other "newer" cams.

No your not gonna make 1,000 hp with it but it's still a good cam for a mild build. Compare the specs with other mild cams and it's actually a decent cam for the price.

Just like anything else tons of people have tons of opinions. But their all exactly that, opinions.


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[95opal]

TFS 1 cam, rpm2 intake, 24# injectors with a set of 3.73 will make a fun little street car.

 

[RichV]

*Most upgraded springs will actually be a spring inside another spring. If you just have a single spring, they're likely not upgraded.

 

[TrickVert]

Just as a data point: GT40-P's, Steeda #19 cam, 24# injectors and a TFS Street Heat upper and lower (similar in flow to the GT40/Explorer) were good for 272/298 on mine before I added my Vortech V2. I also had a 70mm BBK TB and 75mm PMAS MAF.

Andy

 

[95GT86SS]

I like the b cam, but I might be biased. Shouldnt have clearance issues using the b cam and 1.7's


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E303 is the last step in the alphabet cams before clearance becomes a issue. I had one in a fox with ported e7s and bored .030 with stock rods and no recess and it did just fine. Think it was stock rockers too though.

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[Firefighter181]

Anderson Ford N41?

http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/n-41-camshaft-2600-6200-range/