Spark plugs and no boat

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So i waa attempting to find tdc. On my 95 gt mustang and checking the plugs for build up due to the poor running condition I've been trying to fix, i may have cleaned them off incorrectly or maybe knocked something else loose getting to them, I'm about to get dressed and go check it some more, but my first question, how many times can you turn an engine manually by the crank before you flood the engine or make it difficult to crank, and what are some spark plug don't that i may have.... did
 

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So i waa attempting to find tdc. On my 95 gt mustang and checking the plugs for build up due to the poor running condition I've been trying to fix, i may have cleaned them off incorrectly or maybe knocked something else loose getting to them, I'm about to get dressed and go check it some more, but my first question, how many times can you turn an engine manually by the crank before you flood the engine or make it difficult to crank, and what are some spark plug don't that i may have.... did
You can rotate the engine by hand until your arm falls off. Injectors wpnts spray a drop of fuel so no worries. You can google how to make a piston stop in order to find true TDC. If your just looking to time it just pull the spout and hit it with your light. Adjust dizzy until your reading shows 14* BTD if you get any ping back it down a degree or two. As for plugs stick with autolite 5.0s dont like platinum crap.
 
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You can rotate the engine by hand until your arm falls off. Injectors wpnts spray a drop of fuel so no worries. You can google how to make a piston stop in order to find true TDC. If your just looking to time it just pull the spout and hit it with your light. Adjust dizzy until your reading shows 14* BTD if you get any ping back it down a degree or two. As for plugs stick with autolite 5.0s dont like platinum crap.
The ones in there are platinum,
Im probably getting new ones here shortly, it would not crank, i pulled each plug cleaned some of the carbon off and re gapped them to .55 but i did kinda hit the firing areas on the plugs with a torch tip cleaning file, I'm sure a couple of you guys know what that is, i had done 3 before it occurred to me that it may be a bad idea
 
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Oh then i probably didn't mess them up, cept maybe the one i dropped and had to re.. re gap, i my still replace them you said autolite not motorcraft? May i have the timing off worse than before, i may try moving that over a tooth. When air is pushed out the plug hole (#1) that is the compression stroke, right, i really don't want to take everything off again to remove the valve cover, but it's not many steps away from that.
 
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I even bought a snake light to try to view the lifters inside the cover, it's a little difficult to manipulate, and mine has a baffle that I have to go around
 
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I wish people in the f150 forum responded as quickly as you guys do, i could at least get one project finished
 
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Ok I'm a bit confused now, at one point yesterday (please keep in mind i still don't understand all i think i know about setting timing, which I've only learned in the last few weeks) i thought my timing might actually be 180 out, but i convinced myself with a little evidence that i was probably only off by a couple teeth. The car was firing up and idling ok at least a few moments before it started surging and so on, now if i get it to crank in sounds like one of those drag cars that cam so low they can barely stay running without wide open throttle. And most times has shut off before I can get back to the engine bay, it stopped with the harmonic balancer sitting dead on 0 and the rotor is exactly 180 from where it should be (in the distributor anyway) i haven't pulled the plug yet to see where it is yet, just wondering if i adjust for it being 180 out and I'm wrong... what could happen?
 

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I think you need to pull the distributor and start over. Or do like Opal said and put a timing light on it. You need to familiarize yourself with finding tdc.

Feeling for the air out the plug hole is ok, but it’s easy to pass tdc. Looking at the rockers and a camera down the plug hole is a sure fire way to get it right the first time.
 
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I had the cam down the plug hole, i put it in after using a tdc tool, so it was all the way up, i pulled it, put the camera in trying to see the valves (i couldn't) , then verified the correct mark on the crank, then rotated everything again until i got air coming out and the kark lined up on the same stroke, back to top, now i had trouble stabbing the distributor where i thought it should be, so I'm pretty sure it's off, but with such a drastic change, I'm wondering if i somehow got it way off, or will a couple of teeth do that much, and could having the timing off cause it to jump timing
 
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I think you need to pull the distributor and start over. Or do like Opal said and put a timing light on it. You need to familiarize yourself with finding tdc.

Feeling for the air out the plug hole is ok, but it’s easy to pass tdc. Looking at the rockers and a camera down the plug hole is a sure fire way to get it right the first time.
And i really think you're right i definitely need to pull the distributor, i just wish (as much as I like the look of it) that the intake manifold wasn't so damn big, not just because I'd rather pull the valve cover to be sure, but also it covered up the valve covers i had bought to go in the car
 
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I think you need to pull the distributor and start over. Or do like Opal said and put a timing light on it. You need to familiarize yourself with finding tdc.

Feeling for the air out the plug hole is ok, but it’s easy to pass tdc. Looking at the rockers and a camera down the plug hole is a sure fire way to get it right the first time.
Ok magically my car cut off on tdc, if I'm looking at it right, and if i am, I'm 180 out. The first pictures are in cylinder 1 looks to me like the valves are closed, the others are well you know, but my rotor is exactly opposite of where it should be
 

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Ok magically my car cut off on tdc, if I'm looking at it right, and if i am, I'm 180 out. The first pictures are in cylinder 1 looks to me like the valves are closed, the others are well you know, but my rotor is exactly opposite of where it should be
I don’t see any pictures. If you’re ABSOLUTELY sure that both valves are closed and it’s on tdc now but the rotor isn’t lined up, then you need to restab the dizzy.
 
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Ok magically my car cut off on tdc, if I'm looking at it right, and if i am, I'm 180 out. The first pictures are in cylinder 1 looks to me like the valves are closed, the others are well you know, but my rotor is exactly opposite of where it should be
 

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I don’t see any pictures. If you’re ABSOLUTELY sure that both valves are closed and it’s on tdc now but the rotor isn’t lined up, then you need to restab the dizzy.
They're coming, my phone was being stupid and I'm not actually 100% sure because if it is that far out it's got to be jumping timing at the chsin, there's no way it could run, and have had been running if it's been 180 out the whole time.... is there?
 

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They're coming, my phone was being stupid and I'm not actually 100% sure because if it is that far out it's got to be jumping timing at the chsin, there's no way it could run, and have had been running if it's been 180 out the whole time.... is there?
So it was running before you parked it? Did you ever mess with the distributor?
 
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Well
So it was running before you parked it? Did you ever mess with the distributor?
It was running for a yearor so after it had been parked because of deer, and ran great considering how long it sat, we put a battery and new tires on it some new wipers and an oil change, and i don't baby this car at all, one day i realized it was leaking coolant. and saw it coming from the.... the place on the water pump that lets you know that the pump is about to go, it was shortly after replacing the pump that i started having the problem I've been fighting for over a year. But before I did what I did last night it ran and cranked better than last night and this morning, it had an intermittent idle surge (more often than not) and something wouldn't crank back, it started out when i was on my way home from work a little over a year ago and was about to play around with someone I worked with who has one of the 99+ models the light turned green he hit the gas and left i hit the gas and mine sputtered and died
 
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So it was running before you parked it? Did you ever mess with the distributor?
When i finally worked up the courage to try to turn it over, it didn't crank, I'm going to go into it here in a few minutes and go down to where i can remove the valve cover so i can be completely sure, does that baffle in the oil fill need to be in there, i could have used the camera to do this had it not been.
 
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You can rotate the engine by hand until your arm falls off. Injectors wpnts spray a drop of fuel so no worries. You can google how to make a piston stop in order to find true TDC. If your just looking to time it just pull the spout and hit it with your light. Adjust dizzy until your reading shows 14* BTD if you get any ping back it down a degree or two. As for plugs stick with autolite 5.0s dont like platinum crap.
Ok i took everything apart this morning and rotated until just before my arm fell off, verified tdc on 0 on compression (god i hope) just got it back together and came in to cool off before i tried it, should I have the engine warm up before taking out the spout or start it without, originally i was under the impression that when you took that out it somehow timed itself, so apparently I misread whatever that came from, so warm or not, to spout or not to spout.
 

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Did you check the position of the rotor when you verified tdc on compression stroke?

Taking the spout out sets the base timing, with the spout in, the ecu controls timing advance. Take the spout out and try to start it. Then check it with the timing light. Set it 10° advance with spout out.
 

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