Spark plugs for a 96 cobra

whitesnake96

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Hey guys got a question. Im wanting to replace the stock motorcraft platinums for some copper ones. The guy at autozone said no way that they are too cold of a plug. But ive seen alot of guys running copper... whats the diffrence?
 

1997GT4.6

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I ran the copper, autolite 764 or whatever, and the car ran poorly. Idle was a bit more rough and had to replace them to often. Went back to motorcraft platinum and have never looked back. 97 Cobra here.
 

96blak54

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I remember a friend switching to copper in his cobra but he was spraying nitrous heavily. Worked out real good for him. And to be honest,...when it comes to parts house employees information. ..be leery. Good deal to ask here too. Last argument I had with an AZ employee was about '94 being the last year of the 5.0l.
 
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whitesnake96

whitesnake96

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I remember a friend switching to copper in his cobra but he was spraying nitrous heavily. Worked out real good for him. And to be honest,...when it comes to parts house employees information. ..be leery. Good deal to ask here too. Last argument I had with an AZ employee was about '94 being the last year of the 5.0l.

I thought is was 95???? Well i decided to go with stock motorcraft replacements. Gotta find this miss between 3 4k rpm.... i bought a motorcraft fuel filter too. Just waiting on the car to cool down
 

96blak54

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The last year is '95, but since that guy had a convertible '94, '94 was the last year for 5.0l cause his car is so rare,...so he claims.
Good idea on motorcraft replacement. Good idea with fuel filter too. How good are the plug wires? I dont suggest AZ replacements.
 

MustangChris

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I thought is was 95???? Well i decided to go with stock motorcraft replacements. Gotta find this miss between 3 4k rpm.... i bought a motorcraft fuel filter too. Just waiting on the car to cool down

clean your MAF, check your spark plug wires and coils for cracking, run a can of BG44K through the fuel and let us know if that mis clears up....
 
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whitesnake96

whitesnake96

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clean your MAF, check your spark plug wires and coils for cracking, run a can of BG44K through the fuel and let us know if that mis clears up....
Cleaned maf and reoiled kandn airfilter. Let dry overnight and reinstalled. Just put 8 new motorcraft platinum plugs in and still missing. Next is the motorcraft fuel filter. This loss of power only occurs under heavy load in the upper rpm range. Otherwise she runs like a champ
 

MustangChris

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inspect your wires and your coil packs while your under there.... for 8 bolts and 5 minutes of inspection time, why not?

good call on the fuel filter -- tahts another 10 minute fix.
 
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whitesnake96

whitesnake96

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It was the fuel filter. Runs like a new car now! Damn didnt know how much power i was losing....
 

MustangChris

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nice... nice.

I used to change my fuel filter twice a year... they're like $10.00 from autozone and take 10 minutes to do.... why not?

now i have an expensive AN filter. ... FML.
 
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whitesnake96

whitesnake96

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By the way the 96 has tge pull clips on the lines. No tool needed to remove the lines. I recommend using goggles when changing the fuel filter. Gas goes everywhere. And also remove the metal bracket holding it onto the chassis.
 

MustangChris

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By the way the 96 has tge pull clips on the lines. No tool needed to remove the lines. I recommend using goggles when changing the fuel filter. Gas goes everywhere. And also remove tge metal bracket holding it onto the chassis.



yes. this is all accurate.... this is quality info righ heeerr.
 

96blak54

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First time I changed a fuel filter was with my bronco2 when I was 17. I parked it on an incline thinking it be alright. Nope... with no eye protection on especially, I seperated the lines from the filter and gas started tracking down the frame and was going to drip all over me so like a kid I scrabbled to get out from underneath to stay dry. As my frace passed directly under the frame...gas dripped all over my face, eyes, nose.....not cool. Good info here
 
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whitesnake96

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One other thing I forgot to mention. Please please please use anti seize on the plugs and electrical contact grease on the boots when changing your plugs. When I pulled out the old plugs they squeeked like no ones business. For the life of me whoever decided not to use antiseize before me ought to be shot. Spend a dollar on The stuff to save your threads for the future. Sheesh....
 

tcb-1

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This is why I joined up on this forum. Great info, gotta change out my filter this weekend in my '96 too.
 
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whitesnake96

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I used seafoam but only let it set for about 10minutes. Imrcs still feel like they are sticking. Ugh. Sometimes it feels like they close at 5k. Is that possible?
 

ScottyDsntKnow

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Also use a torque wrench when doing the plug install. Ppl laugh when I tell them this but these are aluminum heads and even 1/8 turn past hand tight is overtorqued. 12-15 ft lbs and no more, I do 12 with anti-seize and call it good. Copper plugs are just fine and mod motors like 1 range cooler. My 2V gets Autolite 103s and its just fine and a copper plug will run the best and is easier to read. Only negative is they only last 30-40k miles but plugs on a modular are very easy to change. Recommend new wires (for 96-98) every time new plugs are done. New black wire OEM Motorcrafts are $50 on Rockauto.
 

uncltrvlnmatt

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I had motorcraft platinum in my 97 Cobra, when I did the plug change I installed copper plugs. A week later i took them out and threw them in the garbage. The car fell flat on its face, lost tons of power. I installed a set of NGK platinum plugs and all was good with the world. As far as never-seize goes, use the copper not aluminum never-seize. It costs more but has a higher heat rating.
 
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