Spyders Engine Rebuild - 302 to 331

Spyder

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hechtrod said:
I'm in Utah too and if I keep my stang for the long haul, I want/need to do a rebuild. Because of budget and goals for the car, I think all I'd do is a 306 with nice pistons and rods. What machine shop did you take the block too? How much did the block work cost? Did it include clean (hot tank?) and paint? It looks great by the way. :)
Can't wait to see how everything turns out. What intake are you running? I didn't see if you were going to use the Cobra or a new one?

I'll be watching this closely. I too would be interested in knowing what the final cost with a break down ends up?
Thanks,
Chris Hecht

The machine work was done by a local shop here, Pro Machine. They do really good work, and they were really fast with my stuff, so i have no complaints.

Machine shop costs:

Hot tank
Replace freeze plugs and oil galley plugs
bore 8 cylinders with the use of a deck plate
Install cam bearings
polish crankshaft
radius oil holes on crankshaft
(1) set of SRP forged pistons
assemble pistons and rods.
Piston rings
Rod bearings
Mains bearings
Rear main seal
shortblock assembled

and i and i had him order my head gaskets as well, which were 160 bucks

But, all of that for a little less than 1700

The damn pistons were almost 600 themselves.

Dalamar and i painted the block, so that was just the cost of tape and a can of paint.


I will be using the stock cobra intake for now, but i intend on upgrading in the near future.



Hey Hechtrod, are you wanting to add boost or nos when you do your rebuild?
 

Hicks

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Spyder said:
hechtrod said:
I'm in Utah too and if I keep my stang for the long haul, I want/need to do a rebuild. Because of budget and goals for the car, I think all I'd do is a 306 with nice pistons and rods. What machine shop did you take the block too? How much did the block work cost? Did it include clean (hot tank?) and paint? It looks great by the way. :)
Can't wait to see how everything turns out. What intake are you running? I didn't see if you were going to use the Cobra or a new one?

I'll be watching this closely. I too would be interested in knowing what the final cost with a break down ends up?
Thanks,
Chris Hecht

The machine work was done by a local shop here, Pro Machine. They do really good work, and they were really fast with my stuff, so i have no complaints.

Machine shop costs:

Hot tank
Replace freeze plugs and oil galley plugs
bore 8 cylinders with the use of a deck plate
Install cam bearings
polish crankshaft
radius oil holes on crankshaft
(1) set of SRP forged pistons
assemble pistons and rods.
Piston rings
Rod bearings
Mains bearings
Rear main seal
shortblock assembled

and i and i had him order my head gaskets as well, which were 160 bucks

But, all of that for a little less than 1700

The damn pistons were almost 600 themselves.

Dalamar and i painted the block, so that was just the cost of tape and a can of paint.


I will be using the stock cobra intake for now, but i intend on upgrading in the near future.



Hey Hechtrod, are you wanting to add boost or nos when you do your rebuild?
The cobra intakes are pretty good themseklves arnt they? thats what im going to use on my engine i think
 

Spyder

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The cobra intakes are basically a gt40 intake with some different markings

they are a good intake for some mild combinations, but since you have a 347 in the works, i would go with something better

I would suggest a holley systemax or a trickflow, but im sure a cobra would work too, just not as well
 

Hicks

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ic... thanks!! Where is Dalamar at? lol... >>Impatient on the comfirmation of me being a sapporting member<<

Sigh... lol
 

Red96GT

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I can't believe I haven't read this thread yet. Sweet build. Is the reason you had the machine shop build it because you didn't have the time because it seems you and dal know what you are doing pretty good?

Keep us updated! O0
 

hechtrod

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Spydie, my plan for the rebuild is n/a. My goal is to have a very reliable and strong engine that will easily deal with daily driving and running Miller Motorsports Park's road course. The rest of the money will go to suspension, brakes, wheels/tires. I don't have the budget to step up big time in power. There seems to be a big jump in supporting mods required to take a GT above 300 flyHP. It would require more injector, MAF sensor calibration, intake manifold and heads.
For the top end I'm thinking of the Top End kit from FRPP or TFS, both retail for about $2500. Those would make enough power to hit 350fly HP I think and beyond with a better bottom. I like the alu head idea to lose 50lbs off the nose for cornering balance.

We'll see, that's if I keep the car. I'm also looking at some Civic Hatchbacks with dohc swaps. Lightweight and handling for the turns. I know, I know, let the flames begin. :)
Chris
 

Red96GT

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^^Mustangs on a road course are so sweet. There is a video around the net of a supercharged 95 cobra that AutoXes and road races. I think it's on streetfire.net

You did say you were going to daily drive it though. A civic will get three times what the stang would get. :-\
 

Spyder

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Red96GT said:
I can't believe I haven't read this thread yet. Sweet build. Is the reason you had the machine shop build it because you didn't have the time because it seems you and dal know what you are doing pretty good?

Keep us updated! O0

Well it was a combination of not having much time, and the fact that the machine shop only charged 150 to assemble the short block, can and all.

im gonna go wrench on it monday morning and see if i cant get it done by monday night. at least thats the plan :noes:
 

Stangbangin

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Jasperstang308 said:
fastNA 95GT said:
wow were still talking about this.


okay its not that a 347 wont rev that high but stop making power at about 6k rpm while 331 go up high 6800 range and dhift at 7k to 7300

depending cam.

And my 347 had the best of everything and i shifted at 6000 rpm any more and it was pointless.

i think that just has to depend on ones set up. your particular set up may have stopped at 6 but mine kept going

kept going as in kept making power or kept going as in it would rev that high. I had the misconception that my motor was making power all the way til about 7000 but in reality it would only make power til 5600 according to the dyno.
 

Stangbangin

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sorry to contribute to the hijacking of Spyder's badass build thred. I wanna see that sucker in the car.
 
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Dalamar

Dalamar

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Stangbangin said:
I wanna see that sucker in the car.
Here u go

newin.jpg
 
OP
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Dalamar

Dalamar

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well, I guess that depends on if you have a Chain hoist? ;)
 
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Stangbangin said:
Jasperstang308 said:
fastNA 95GT said:
wow were still talking about this.


okay its not that a 347 wont rev that high but stop making power at about 6k rpm while 331 go up high 6800 range and dhift at 7k to 7300

depending cam.

And my 347 had the best of everything and i shifted at 6000 rpm any more and it was pointless.

i think that just has to depend on ones set up. your particular set up may have stopped at 6 but mine kept going

kept going as in kept making power or kept going as in it would rev that high. I had the misconception that my motor was making power all the way til about 7000 but in reality it would only make power til 5600 according to the dyno.

mine kept making power and kept pulling harder. like i said it just depends on ur set up
 

Spyder

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Well, the engine is all in and all assembled................Thats the good news



the bad news, i cant get the damn thing to fire up!!! :rant:

Engine cranks over, but just wont fire up!

Everything is intalleds correctly, all the wires are hooked up accordingly, i have fuel pressure, i have oil pressure and i have spark but i have no bang.

I have checked to makes sure the plug wires are in the correct order, they are
I have spun the distributer, and nothing happens.

I have no clue on what i should do next. Any input would be much appreciated
 
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