Stalling @ stop lights

Matt94GT

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Well I adjusted my idle screw in my 70mm BBK throttle body (im having a brain fart I forget the name of the screw that im adjusting, its the flat screw that you turn in the throttle body its self, NOT the throttle return screw). Anyways that deffently fixed my hanging idle...alot, car runs much better...

...untill I come to a stop, then my RPMs drop to about 600 for about 1 second, then a second later they hop up to about 750ish then drop down to like 400 and it stalls. It seems that it is worse when the car is warm.

Any ideas? I cleaned my IAC last season (only drive my car in summer), and cleaned my MAF. Mabye bump up my idle a wee bit with the throttle retrun screw?

Thanks
 

d_punch

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yeah i would try that
after i put the cam in i can't get my car to not stall if it's not set to idle just above 800 rpm.
 

Spyder

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Yeah, with cam and heads my car wont idle at anything under 800rpms.

Sometimes when it starts to dip down like its gonna stall, it will stay at about 650 for a sec, and i must admit it sounds sick as hell.

If you find i was to keep it down around 650-700, please do let us know
 

d_punch

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i know what you mean spyder. my car too sound sick if it would say idling at like 650 - 700 but it won't stay. it'll start jumping and then die.
as it is now ( @ about 800 ) it will die if once i start it, i walk away after idling for a while it will jump up and down and die. but once it's warmed up it doesn't die. :dunno:
 

Spyder

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im starting to think that a dyno tune might be the only way to cure this
 

Lightning Struck

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Spyder said:
im starting to think that a dyno tune might be the only way to cure this

Im sure it would be a big help, not to mention possibly correcting whatever the problem is
 

Spyder

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From what im told the "problem" is the sensitive computer in the 94-95 5.0L's.

I have heard of people that cant keep one idling with just a cam, so i would imagine with heads on top of that mix its not gonna run like a stocker until it gets tuned
 

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