Steeds Tri-Ax Handle On Stock Shifter Violent Vibrations At High RPM

[Terrorist 5.0]

Hello everyone, recently I bought the Tri-Ax handle off LMR to put on my stock shifter (I don’t like the clunkiness and clicking of short throw shifters). It is very nice. Throws are shortened considerably, and the positioning is basically the same as factory. However, the shifter now shakes pretty violently at higher rpms, doesn’t matter if the car is moving or not, but it is worse when moving. I know that the stock shifter material will absorb vibrations better, and the rubber surrounding it helps (I took the rubber off the stock shifter and used it on the new one), I am going to check my harmonic balancer since it is mostly RPM dependant, just to be sure, although I am 100% sure it is ok. My main question is, is anyone else running my setup, or something similar and experienced this? And how did you fix it? My next step is to check the shifter bolts themselves for tightness, and probably replace the shifter bushing when I find a quality replacement.

 

[07GtS197]

Check your motor and trans mounts. Was there any other work performed on your car recently?

 

[Terrorist 5.0]

Check your motor and trans mounts. Was there any other work performed on your car recently?

Motor and trans mounts are new and in good shape, they are stock replacements as I don’t like a lot of NVH. No other work on the car was performed recently, although I forgot to mention that I am not running the shifter boot for easy access to the bolts holding the handle on. I’m sure this contributes a little but I can’t imagine that much.

 

[cobrajeff96]

Balancers have a life cycle. Factory rubber inside the housing will deteriorate. My personal rule is 10yr/100,000 mi all factory rubber (bushings/balancers/etc) are changed out. Polyurethane is acceptable as a stock replacement.

I recently switched from Tri Ax to the factory shifter and I much happier with it actually. Brand new ATI balancer, poly engine/trans mounts, solidly mounted rear diff and IRS subframe (which might actually get the poly treatment because it is kind of annoying at times). But surely the annoyance you're experiencing is because the Tri Ax is a direct bolt on to the trans. Can't get much more solid than that. Go back to stock, or hell even make your own, it's not hard to do.

 

[Warhorse Racing]

You mentioned transferring the rubber from the stock shifter to the new one. I just want to make sure that you are referring to rubber between the Tri-Ax shifter handle and the shifter. If not, Steeda offers an isolator kit to reduce NVH:

Steeda Mustang Shifter NVH Isolator Kit (1979-2004)

Help keep things quiet in your cockpit with this isolator kit. The rubber isolator works to prevent transmission noise from migrating up the shifter. Works with all Steeda Tri-Ax shifters, and many other brands with two mounting holes for the shifter handle.

www.steeda.com

You might want to check out their Delrin shifter bushing:

Steeda Mustang T5/T45/T56 Shifter Bushing

Steeda's 555-7089 Mustang Shifter Bushing for T5/T45/T56 lets you replace the shifter bushing in your Tremec transmission.

www.steeda.com

You should double-check to make sure they will fit your specific application.

I recently installed those parts (and a Stifflers transmission mount) on my 2004 V6 (T-5). If you are interested, I cover the parts in this video:

 

[Terrorist 5.0]

Balancers have a life cycle. Factory rubber inside the housing will deteriorate. My personal rule is 10yr/100,000 mi all factory rubber (bushings/balancers/etc) are changed out. Polyurethane is acceptable as a stock replacement.

I recently switched from Tri Ax to the factory shifter and I much happier with it actually. Brand new ATI balancer, poly engine/trans mounts, solidly mounted rear diff and IRS subframe (which might actually get the poly treatment because it is kind of annoying at times). But surely the annoyance you're experiencing is because the Tri Ax is a direct bolt on to the trans. Can't get much more solid than that. Go back to stock, or hell even make your own, it's not hard to do.

I wouldn’t doubt that you are happier with stock. I tried driving some cars with short shifters and never liked how they felt.

 

[Terrorist 5.0]

You mentioned transferring the rubber from the stock shifter to the new one. I just want to make sure that you are referring to rubber between the Tri-Ax shifter handle and the shifter. If not, Steeda offers an isolator kit to reduce NVH:

Steeda Mustang Shifter NVH Isolator Kit (1979-2004)

Help keep things quiet in your cockpit with this isolator kit. The rubber isolator works to prevent transmission noise from migrating up the shifter. Works with all Steeda Tri-Ax shifters, and many other brands with two mounting holes for the shifter handle.

www.steeda.com

You might want to check out their Delrin shifter bushing:

Steeda Mustang T5/T45/T56 Shifter Bushing

Steeda's 555-7089 Mustang Shifter Bushing for T5/T45/T56 lets you replace the shifter bushing in your Tremec transmission.

www.steeda.com

You should double-check to make sure they will fit your specific application.

I recently installed those parts (and a Stifflers transmission mount) on my 2004 V6 (T-5). If you are interested, I cover the parts in this video:

I put the piece of rubber from the old shifter between the new handle and the shifter yes. I am sure my bushing is worn out and could use replacing, but I can’t wrap my head around all this new vibration just from a handle. I will watch your video though. They are always helpful. Thank you. I will say that money shift you showed, the RPM only got up to just about 6000 from the sound. You didn’t damage anything don’t worry. A lot of people raise the rev limiter on the 3.8 to a little over 6000 anyway.

 

[Warhorse Racing]

My cars have a lot of added NVH, so I can't say with 100% certainty that I noticed more vibration when I installed my Tri-Ax shifter/handle. But, based on the fact that Steeda sells an isolator kit, it seems like a possibility. My 2.3L has an OEM shifter with a Tri-Ax handle. Even with the interior gutted, the handle doesn't make noise (that car has 55k miles). My V6 developed the vibration after the money shift in that video. That transmission has seen 170k miles. Prior to that, it was fine.

The sound on my camera isn't great. The tach went way past 6,000 rpm. The car did seem to come out okay (thankfully). I changed/inspected the oil, and it finished out the rest of the season.

 

[Terrorist 5.0]

My cars have a lot of added NVH, so I can't say with 100% certainty that I noticed more vibration when I installed my Tri-Ax shifter/handle. But, based on the fact that Steeda sells an isolator kit, it seems like a possibility. My 2.3L has an OEM shifter with a Tri-Ax handle. Even with the interior gutted, the handle doesn't make noise (that car has 55k miles). My V6 developed the vibration after the money shift in that video. That transmission has seen 170k miles. Prior to that, it was fine.

The sound on my camera isn't great. The tach went way past 6,000 rpm. The car did seem to come out okay (thankfully). I changed/inspected the oil, and it finished out the rest of the season.

The tach likely swung past 7 because of the sudden change in RPM. If the money shift was the one caught on video, I guarantee you that was only about 6000. You’re safe.

 

[Warhorse Racing]

The tach likely swung past 7 because of the sudden change in RPM. If the money shift was the one caught on video, I guarantee you that was only about 6000. You’re safe.

Ultimately, my car was okay and went on to have a good season. Getting back to your issue, did you find anything else that could be causing your vibration?

 

[badass98svt]

Never cared for the Tri-ax
I used to like the Pro 5.0 shifters, but when the revised MGW shifters came out, it was a game changer

 

[07GtS197]

I like the pro 5.0 shifter with the steeda tri ax handle myself. The shift handle that comes with the pro 5.0 is way too small.

I’ve never ran an mgw but everyone raves about them so I will secondhand recommend them lol.

 

[lwarrior1016]

See, I don’t like the mgw shifter. The neutral spring was too tight, and hurt my shoulder going in to 5th. And I missed second gear every single time at the track. Put my Tri-Ax shifter back in and never missed a gear again. I always wound up with a triax shifter and a long hurst handle.

 

[07GtS197]

Huh that’s the first time I’ve heard anything bad about an mgw shifter. That’s a good point though. To each his own. You’re running a t45 behind the coyote right?

 

[Terrorist 5.0]

Ultimately, my car was okay and went on to have a good season. Getting back to your issue, did you find anything else that could be causing your vibration?

So far I haven't found much relating to the shaking, I am planning to order that bushing and NVH kit as well to see if that improves anything. I think a fairly big part of it is the lack of a shift boot. I need a new bezel to put my new boot on. At that time maybe it can mask the sound.

 

[lwarrior1016]

Huh that’s the first time I’ve heard anything bad about an mgw shifter. That’s a good point though. To each his own. You’re running a t45 behind the coyote right?

It was a vary built t45. Now I’ve got a 6r80 auto in it.

 

[07GtS197]

It was a vary built t45. Now I’ve got a 6r80 auto in it.

Ah gotcha. I’m sure having it built wasn’t cheap. You don’t see too many people running 5 speeds behind coyotes. I’ve been told it’s better due to the wider gear spacing, as opposed to a close ratio t56 or mt82, but I have no experience myself to compare. I’ve had a few mt82 equipped s550’s and I thought the gearing was great.

 

[Warhorse Racing]

So far I haven't found much relating to the shaking, I am planning to order that bushing and NVH kit as well to see if that improves anything. I think a fairly big part of it is the lack of a shift boot. I need a new bezel to put my new boot on. At that time maybe it can mask the sound.

Let us know if the parts help with your issue. If you don't have a local place to find an OEM bezel (LKQ), you should be able to get one from MPS Auto Salvage in GA.