stereo making loud pop when starting car

piester

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94 mustang gt with the mach 460 in it. clarion head unit, kicker 600.1 amp with l7 10. if the head unit is on i hear a really loud pop noise coming from the speakers when i turn the key to the start position. not sure if its just the sub or all the speakers but ill find that out at some point today. at first i thought it was a bad ground because i would get alternator whine in the speakers at idle and just above. but i cleaned the battery to chassis ground and that went away. plans are to clean all the grounds i can get to and make sure all connections are solid. also going to see how the PO had the system wired in as far as how it turns the amps on (either HU powered or ignition on powered if that makes sense) any other suggestions?
 

Addermk2

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Remote wire for your amp is likely wired wrong. Disconnect it from the sub amp and see if you still have the pop.
 

ttocs

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the stock stereos remote turn on uses a 6v system, where your aftermarket deck uses a 12v. Cut the remote wire and insert a 1.5k ohm resistor on the wire going too the stock remote turn on.
 

99GreenStang

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the stock stereos remote turn on uses a 6v system, where your aftermarket deck uses a 12v. Cut the remote wire and insert a 1.5k ohm resistor on the wire going too the stock remote turn on.

This is what you need to do . Good post friend


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

piester

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the stock stereos remote turn on uses a 6v system, where your aftermarket deck uses a 12v. Cut the remote wire and insert a 1.5k ohm resistor on the wire going too the stock remote turn on.
That is a hell of an idea. Simple and clever. I like it. The only other thing I could think to do was wire a normally closed relay to control the preamp output from the deck and hook it up so it cute the connection between the deck and amp when there is power going to the starter. Does it matter how many watts the resistor is?
 

ttocs

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no its low power it will not matter, the hack shack should have them. What is important is to insulate the connections or you will make some sparks and possibly let out the magic smoke from the electronics. The other option is to install a voltage regulator/zener diode but its a little more in depth then the resistor.
 

ttocs

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make sure the resistor is only going too the factory remote wire or your kicker amp will not turn on with 6 v.
 

ttocs

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are you using the rca out on the deck to feed the mach system or the speaker output(wires)? If your using the rca's to feed the mach system try disconnecting them and see if it still pops.
 

piester

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Unhooked the RCA cables from the back of the head unit and it still does it. It only does it if I let the fuel pump prime before I start it. If I just twist the key all the way to start it doesn't do it
 

piester

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Also this may be a stupid question but how am I supposed to wire the resistor in? Inline from the head unit to the amp in that blue wire right? Not one end of the resistor T'd in to the remote turn on and the other end grounded?
 

ttocs

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you want to cut the wire that leads into the stock wiring ONLY... Then simply put one end of the resistor on one wire, the other end on the other wire. This is called series wiring and in case you were curious, resistors are not polarized meaning it does not have a specific +/- end.

Ok so if you turn the key straight to start it doesn't make the pop, but even with the rca's out of it if you let it prime then start it pops? Not sure what to say. Sounds like a problem with the amp obviously if it does it with out an signal too it.
 

ttocs

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it pops when you turn the key off? Now that honestly is a first, a turn off pop I have never heard before. We could try a capacitor too see if slowly discharching the remote wire would help but we might also need a relay just too keep from pulling too much current from your deck and blowing the remote turn on output.
 

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