stock manifold leak, looking for tips on swapping out headers.

mineralgreygt

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So long story short I've been tracking down this ticking noise when I accelerate in my car for a while now and I'm pretty confident its an exhaust manifold leak on the drivers side. I can feel the warm air coming out with my hand. I plan on just swapping them with a set of shorty headers, unfortunately no one makes shortys anymore aside from BBK and JBA and JBAs are pricey and from what I've read are prone to cracking. So that leaves me with BBKs, from what I've read they seem ok. But I may be leaning towards JBAs SS headers doing a little more research.

I dont want long tubes because I dont want to make life any more difficult when the time comes to drop the transmission. I already have a catted x pipe and I am supercharged so the scavenging affect means nothing to me. Also I dont want to bottom out on the LTs everywhere I go because Im about 2" lowered.

I've seen many people drop the K to install headers while others are successful doing it by just raising the engine. Anyone have any tips and tricks for removing and installing headers? I've looked around the interwebs but I've only come across vague descriptions. I'm assuming its relatively straight forward. I'd prefer no to drop the K but if its going to make life easy I can. Another thought since i'm suprecharged will I benefit having ceramic coated headers? Im assuming no because the whole idea of ceramic coating is to retain the heat in the exhaust which further increases the scavenging affect. The supercharger is just going to push all that air right along under boost condition. Is my thought process correct here? Thanks in advance.
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scotrell

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So long story short I've been tracking down this ticking noise when I accelerate in my car for a while now and I'm pretty confident its an exhaust manifold leak on the drivers side. I can feel the warm air coming out with my hand. I plan on just swapping them with a set of shorty headers, unfortunately no one makes shortys anymore aside from BBK and JBA and JBAs are pricey and from what I've read are prone to cracking. So that leaves me with BBKs, from what I've read they seem ok. But I may be leaning towards JBAs SS headers doing a little more research.

I dont want long tubes because I dont want to make life any more difficult when the time comes to drop the transmission. I already have a catted x pipe and I am supercharged so the scavenging affect means nothing to me. Also I dont want to bottom out on the LTs everywhere I go because Im about 2" lowered.

I've seen many people drop the K to install headers while others are successful doing it by just raising the engine. Anyone have any tips and tricks for removing and installing headers? I've looked around the interwebs but I've only come across vague descriptions. I'm assuming its relatively straight forward. I'd prefer no to drop the K but if its going to make life easy I can. Another thought since i'm suprecharged will I benefit having ceramic coated headers? Im assuming no because the whole idea of ceramic coating is to retain the heat in the exhaust which further increases the scavenging affect. The supercharger is just going to push all that air right along under boost condition. Is my thought process correct here? Thanks in advance.
smile.gif
Not sure witch way is easier, going forward with this 2000 Gt build right now, and having some of the same issues, BBK long tube and Tremek45 ,loosening the passenger side header has helped, but still not sure what else to try,even after rotating it around. Really don't want to drop K-member. And really don't wanna pull motor up out of mounts again with the over sized moroso oil pan that leaves no space next to K-member.
 

SnakeBit!

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I've had the stainless JBA shorties on two mustangs with no issues at all and was happy with both of them.
 

96blak54

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I feel your pain with longtubes! Working on the exhaust in our cars is a pain within its self. Short tube install still aint what you call manageable, everything is close and in the way.

I picked up a set of these DNA brandnew shorty stainless headers locally off marketplace as used and really i am surprised at the quality. Welds, bends and flange thickness is comparable, if not better than the FRPP short headers that i have now. The flanges are thick! Typically not the case with budget headers. They aint light weight either. They also have flat clearance bends for the steering shaft. Id say pick up a set of these and try them out.
 
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ttocs

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even shorty's are a bit of a pain with the modulars? I can drop mine in from the top and only go under the car because it is easier to get the bolts by plug 1 from the bottom.
 

lwarrior1016

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even shorty's are a bit of a pain with the modulars? I can drop mine in from the top and only go under the car because it is easier to get the bolts by plug 1 from the bottom.
With a stock k member, anything exhaust related on a modular is tough.
 

96blak54

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You know the stock kmember is a beast! Compared side by side, the aftermarket is all open and accessible where as the stock is like a impenetrable wall.
 

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