Stupid Gremlin

Discussion in 'Electrical & Stereo' started by i94ponycar, Jul 21, 2014.

  1. i94ponycar

    i94ponycar New Member

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    Okay I've had a super aggravating electrical gremlin running amuck in my 94GT and I am back to square one.

    I had a staring problem since I bought it. However when I disconnected my mach rear amps it became MUCH more reliable. Here is what it does now ...

    1. When I pull into a parking space AND turn the steering wheel as far as it will go in either direction the car dies. Starts fine afterward.
    2. If I use my keyless remote to lock the car AND the horn does not honk it will need a jump to start.
    3. If I use my vert top with the car off it will need a jump to start.
    4. Will randomly need a jump to start. (It is a crapshoot after letting it sit for over approx 8hrs)

    Pre-emptive responses ...

    Battery voltage strong. Correct battery for car (tried a 550 and 650 CCA battery). Happened with 2 new batteries. Grounds are fine. Relays, fuse blocks, and every junction I could find between batt-power steering, batt-vert top, batt-amps all tested fine. I spent HOURS with my meter without finding anything that looked wrong.

    HELP!!

    Thanks all.

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  2. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    sounds like you have a current draw on the system, the mach amps have become notorious for it now and disconnecting it should help/fix it. But we still need to see what the current draw on the system is. Do you have a multi-meter that can read current(mA/I on the meter)? If you do you will need to disconnect the battery and then put the meter in the middle of the battery and the lead you disconnected. After that if the reading is anything close/over .1mA then you will need to start pulling fuses one at a time to see which one you pull will make the current reading go down.
     
  3. i94ponycar

    i94ponycar New Member

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    Did that after a previous audio post. After disconnecting the rear amps it read very low. My friend's husband is an ASE mechanic (ya ya I know ASE is a certification in upselling but its worth mentioning) and I left it with him a month ago. He was baffled too. He said I may never find it, I didn't hear that though.

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  4. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    mechanics hate electronics from my exp. But then a lot of tech(elcectronics techs) are not big on mechanical parts either.... But there should not be a reason you can't figure it out. I would try the current test again with the amps disconnected and see if there is a further draw somewhere. You also said you checked the grounds. When I say to check grounds I mean to remove the bolts, clean the surfaces and then retighten if you/he just looked at them and maybe gave them a pull/tug that is not going to show you much.
     
  5. i94ponycar

    i94ponycar New Member

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    I literally took them off and hit everything with a wire brush lol. It sucks when everything is done right the first time but the problem won't go away. K great did all that for no reason

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  6. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    grounds are always the first place you start with electrical so it was not wasted trust me. Like I said do the current test again with the amps disconnected and see what it finds.
     
  7. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

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    Grounds and current draw as Scott stated. Definitely check those. Make sure you have a strong ground from [negative post] to [chassis] to [engine]. Check starter as well, I have seen a bad starter cause a random current draw.

    Power steering/rack may be an issue in the car dying.

    When it needs a jump, have you checked the battery voltage?
     
  8. Z06killinsbf

    Z06killinsbf Active Member

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    Check your cables, just not the grounds. I had tight, clean connections and the volt meter showed a ground but the batt gnd cable was so corroded that it would'nt start the car. Replaced cable and it starts fast now. Something to look into.