Taking opinions on Shock & Strut setup.

Addicted

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Besides my paint job, and transmission input shaft bearing, my biggest neglected part on my car is my overall suspension, really just the front. Anyway..ive wanted to replace the springs, bushings, struts, and shocks for a while now, but amid my current endeavor with my heads/cams/exhaust/intake, I won't be allowed to spend crazy amounts of $ on a overall suspension package like everyone likes to do. I'm not saying I want to skimp out on it all, but get something affordable at a very competitive price. I also do not want to slam the car to the ground because I dont exactly know how far down the kooks headers will hang. My front end is worn pretty bad, springs are weak, and every bushing needs replaced, including my spring isolators. I do have new front sway bar ends though:D. Ive replaced both tie rod ends, 1 ball joint, and 1 wheel bearing all together last year, but they were cheap parts, and I don't like cheap parts. My cars parts went bad from age, not from wear, it's at 150K miles as we speak.
Ive hunted for the best parts at the best price, and even bought great used parts that are top of the line products in there specific field. When your doing a major overhaul, you really have to do it wisely so you can cover everything you wanted to. I have a part list, a set price for each part that I can spend, parts that I'm willing to spend extra on if needed, and parts that can wait if I do have to spend extra on other stuff. Even after all is said and done, I have to get the old girl tuned!
Everyone wants to be able to pull their car out of the garage after a long wait, looking, sounding, handling, and most of all, performing like brand new car.
Couple hours ago I purchased the Steeda Sport springs new for $188 on sale, 2 new Moog front control arms already loaded. Ive worked on suspension alot, but never have I recommended a certain part to someone, and here's where I need some help. What's some good/great strut & shock combination that is reasonably priced, and can handle the road better than most? My car will not be on the drag strip at all, strictly a daily type car. I know you "get what you pay for with parts", but there are deals out there, and there are products out there better than some. I want to use the fox body struts & shocks because they are 1" shorter than the SN stuff, and the Steeda springs drop it 1.25". What would some of you recommend? ALSO...I WANT MURICAN MADE STUFF! T I will value your opinions, THANKS:)
 

evilcw311

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If the prothane kit I have works on your year as well I could make you a deal on it. It’s a complete car kit and it’s been in the box for a few years. Installed some of the front lca bushings in the Control arms but never installed the arms. I also have new steeds balljoints if I remember correctly. I’m gonna be going out to see the car this coming week to drop off some parts and to remove my cc plates for a member who has been super patiently waiting. I’ll look to see what all is in the box


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If the prothane kit I have works on your year as well I could make you a deal on it. It’s a complete car kit and it’s been in the box for a few years. Installed some of the front lca bushings in the Control arms but never installed the arms. I also have new steeds balljoints if I remember correctly. I’m gonna be going out to see the car this coming week to drop off some parts and to remove my cc plates for a member who has been super patiently waiting. I’ll look to see what all is in the box


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Yes sir! That's would be great. I need a bushing kit. If you have something else to sell just PM me. Thanks Evil.
 

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I should've asked for before I purchased the control arms, but they are at least MOOG components. Shoot! I would have taken your arms, and ball joints. O' well, you taught me a good lesson today. Ask around before I purchase anything else.
 

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You're going to love the Steeda Sport Springs with long tubes. I have BBK long tubes and the Steeda sport springs gives just enough drop to be lowered without banging up the long tubes. I do have to go over speed bumps side ways and slow or the long tubes will scrape, but that's okay by me. I believe the springs advertise a 1.25" drop but I got closer to a 1.5" drop with isolators.

I may take the isolators out of the rear to even the drop. The rear sits a good .5" higher then the front. I'm just not sure if I want to completely yet because I do like ground clearance and I'd have to readjust my projectors in my headlights. I'm lazy - I know.

Regarding your moog control arms - are you speaking of the lower control arms with new rubber bushings installed? If so, I went the same route but I took out the ball joints it came with. While it may be MOOG branded, they looked cheap as hell. I pressed them out on my vice with a ball joint press I own and pressed in new MOOG problem solver ball joints with the grease fittings.

It's truly hard to answer your post honestly because over the years I've learned to not buy cheap as to only cry once. I got so tired of cheap parts failing prematurely OR not being happy with the budget parts and just buying good parts instead over time. This lead to more time and money so I tend to go with quality the first time around now.

LMR and AM are expensive. Cross shop ebay, rock auto, amazon, CJ Pony Parts ect. If it isn't a specialized specific part, chances are other places on the net have what you want. I know my post isn't the most informative but honestly I can't recommend budget parts anymore in good faith. Just burned too much in my younger years. If I can't afford a good part, I'll save til I can unless it's an emergency - which isn't the case anymore because she isn't my DD.
 

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You're going to love the Steeda Sport Springs with long tubes. I have BBK long tubes and the Steeda sport springs gives just enough drop to be lowered without banging up the long tubes. I do have to go over speed bumps side ways and slow or the long tubes will scrape, but that's okay by me. I believe the springs advertise a 1.25" drop but I got closer to a 1.5" drop with isolators.

I may take the isolators out of the rear to even the drop. The rear sits a good .5" higher then the front. I'm just not sure if I want to completely yet because I do like ground clearance and I'd have to readjust my projectors in my headlights. I'm lazy - I know.

Regarding your moog control arms - are you speaking of the lower control arms with new rubber bushings installed? If so, I went the same route but I took out the ball joints it came with. While it may be MOOG branded, they looked cheap as hell. I pressed them out on my vice with a ball joint press I own and pressed in new MOOG problem solver ball joints with the grease fittings.

It's truly hard to answer your post honestly because over the years I've learned to not buy cheap as to only cry once. I got so tired of cheap parts failing prematurely OR not being happy with the budget parts and just buying good parts instead over time. This lead to more time and money so I tend to go with quality the first time around now.

LMR and AM are expensive. Cross shop ebay, rock auto, amazon, CJ Pony Parts ect. If it isn't a specialized specific part, chances are other places on the net have what you want. I know my post isn't the most informative but honestly I can't recommend budget parts anymore in good faith. Just burned too much in my younger years. If I can't afford a good part, I'll save til I can unless it's an emergency - which isn't the case anymore because she isn't my DD.
Your okay man, I actually want real life experiences, and I completely understand what you mean when it comes to buying cheaper parts. I always tend to go with expensive parts when it comes to something that's really difficult to change, and important as can be, and yes the steering is important dont get me wrong there, but its what they come with and its saved me time and money them already being in place.
Ive always liked the look of the Steeda springs springs on our cars, and I actually think the Kooks it a tad higher to the car than the BBK's do, but we will see when I get there. I plan on going full tubular K, and A-arms maybe later in the year so I made cost sutting decision on some stuff that can be changed out easy. Ive got one Moog ball joint on the car as we speak w/zerks. I'm going to be buying evils bushing kit whenever he realizes what he has, and may get everything he has.
I'm replacing the iso's all around and may make some changes if I feel the desire to. I make post like these because I value the guys who have been through it, their opions, and I greatly appreciate it good sir!
 

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If the prothane kit I have works on your year as well I could make you a deal on it. It’s a complete car kit and it’s been in the box for a few years. Installed some of the front lca bushings in the Control arms but never installed the arms. I also have new steeds balljoints if I remember correctly. I’m gonna be going out to see the car this coming week to drop off some parts and to remove my cc plates for a member who has been super patiently waiting. I’ll look to see what all is in the box


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I think the only thing that different is the front sway bar bushings, for some reason they almost always changed year to year.
 

TheOdessa

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Your okay man, I actually want real life experiences, and I completely understand what you mean when it comes to buying cheaper parts. I always tend to go with expensive parts when it comes to something that's really difficult to change, and important as can be, and yes the steering is important dont get me wrong there, but its what they come with and its saved me time and money them already being in place.
Ive always liked the look of the Steeda springs springs on our cars, and I actually think the Kooks it a tad higher to the car than the BBK's do, but we will see when I get there. I plan on going full tubular K, and A-arms maybe later in the year so I made cost sutting decision on some stuff that can be changed out easy. Ive got one Moog ball joint on the car as we speak w/zerks. I'm going to be buying evils bushing kit whenever he realizes what he has, and may get everything he has.
I'm replacing the iso's all around and may make some changes if I feel the desire to. I make post like these because I value the guys who have been through it, their opions, and I greatly appreciate it good sir!

I like it. Good luck to you! There's always a middle ground (say BBK LT vs Kooks LT. To me BBK fits the bill but going Kooks would have been the best) but sometimes you just got to go to the top.

Example I got Koni STR.T shocks/struts but wish I went Bilstein. What shocks/struts are you eyeing for those steeda sports?
 

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I wasnt saying BBKs were bad lol:D Ive had a pair myself, but had to sell them due to financial reasons in the middle of winter, doing construction dont mix well. They was new and chilling there, I lost $100 but wasnt ment to be. I dont have the money kooks either, nor would I buy them new, I just got lucky there was a set on craigslist 1.5hr away for $300. I wouldve bought BBK or MAC if I hadn't found them, so no shot at you!
 

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Actually looking at the koni's, KYB AGX's, but im going with a fox body type for the 1" shorter design.
 
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Actually looking at the koni's, KYB AGX's, but im going with a fox body type for the 1" shorter design.

I’m not sure if you plan on using your car for autocross/track, but, if you plan on doing any performance driving, there are some things to consider…

Going too low will make 94-04 Mustangs handle worse in certain performance situations. Lower springs and shorter struts limit suspension travel, which makes you more likely to hit the bump stops when your suspension articulates. How much you should lower your car depends on whether you are driving primarily on the street, a track or on an autocross course.

Going too stiff will also hurt the handling of the car. If you stiffen up your springs, struts, bushings, sway bars and chassis up front, you are ADDING understeer to a car that already has understeer.

Stiffening up everything in the rear suspension ADDS oversteer.

If you make the car too stiff, it will feel like it’s driving on ice.

You listed some adjustable struts in your post. If you plan on doing any performance driving, I would highly recommend using adjustable shocks & struts. They completely change the way our cars respond to suspension mods, and they can adapt to future mods.

Here’s a link to a video I made about the front suspension mods on my 2004 V6 autocross car. It uses Steeda Sport springs up front, Tokico adjustable struts, and other upgrades. I review those parts in the video. That car won a local autocross championship in 2019 and has beaten s197 and s550 Mustangs out on course.

The Tokico struts have been discontinued; many people I know are using Koni Yellow adjustable shocks & struts.

If you have any questions, please ask.

 

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I’m not sure if you plan on using your car for autocross/track, but, if you plan on doing any performance driving, there are some things to consider…

Going too low will make 94-04 Mustangs handle worse in certain performance situations. Lower springs and shorter struts limit suspension travel, which makes you more likely to hit the bump stops when your suspension articulates. How much you should lower your car depends on whether you are driving primarily on the street, a track or on an autocross course.

Going too stiff will also hurt the handling of the car. If you stiffen up your springs, struts, bushings, sway bars and chassis up front, you are ADDING understeer to a car that already has understeer.

Stiffening up everything in the rear suspension ADDS oversteer.

If you make the car too stiff, it will feel like it’s driving on ice.

You listed some adjustable struts in your post. If you plan on doing any performance driving, I would highly recommend using adjustable shocks & struts. They completely change the way our cars respond to suspension mods, and they can adapt to future mods.

Here’s a link to a video I made about the front suspension mods on my 2004 V6 autocross car. It uses Steeda Sport springs up front, Tokico adjustable struts, and other upgrades. I review those parts in the video. That car won a local autocross championship in 2019 and has beaten s197 and s550 Mustangs out on course.

The Tokico struts have been discontinued; many people I know are using Koni Yellow adjustable shocks & struts.

If you have any questions, please ask.

Great info there, exactly what type I was after. I'm glad you asked! I will be driving my car on the street only, driven maybe 3 times a week, and only sunny, dry days. I have a perfect unibody underneath that's not been abused the slightest bit, but needs every suspension component replaced to match the rest of the car.
I purchased the Steeda springs because of the small amount of drop it produces, plus they were on sale. Ive been eyeing the koni adjustable stuff alot. The reason why I said I would choose the fox struts is because of the 1" difference due to the springs. I will watch your video because I'm interested in learning the suspension as well as I have the engine.
 
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Great info there, exactly what type I was after. I'm glad you asked! I will be driving my car on the street only, driven maybe 3 times a week, and only sunny, dry days. I have a perfect unibody underneath that's not been abused the slightest bit, but needs every suspension component replaced to match the rest of the car.
I purchased the Steeda springs because of the small amount of drop it produces, plus they were on sale. Ive been eyeing the koni adjustable stuff alot. The reason why I said I would choose the fox struts is because of the 1" difference due to the springs. I will watch your video because I'm interested in learning the suspension as well as I have the engine.

I would recommend using struts for a 94-04 Mustang, not a Fox. If you are installing CC Plates, they will come with metal spacers that can be rearranged to compensate for different ride heights.
 

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I would recommend using struts for a 94-04 Mustang, not a Fox. If you are installing CC Plates, they will come with metal spacers that can be rearranged to compensate for different ride heights.
Which plates would you recommend? Or should I say put on your car?
 
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Which plates would you recommend? Or should I say put on your car?

I don't use coil overs, and I don't plan on using coil overs, so 3-bolt CC Plates work fine for my application. I use Steeda 3-bolt CC Plates. I have used them on 3 different autocross cars for many years and they work great.

If you plan on switching to coil overs down the line, you will need 4-bolt CC Plates.
 

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I found out why the car was leaning a little to the right about an inch. I have a broke spring. It was doing the ganster lean.
 

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