The battery drain issue I mentioned in my intro thread.

Texas_Black_5.0

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Hello all,

I planned on making this thread sooner but every time I tried the act of typing out my steps helped me to realize there was something else I should check, and that has gone on for a little while now. So this is more of a "where I'm at and how I got here" thread, not the desperate plea for help I thought it was going to be. Long story short my car was slowly draining the battery, some parasitic load. I started pulling fuses under the hood and that led me to the fuses inside the car, to fuse 8. I looked and saw everything on the other end of that fuse, and figured this could easily be a big instrument cluster nightmare. So I figure before I got that deep into all this I'll get the state safety inspection done on it and get the thing legal.

I hadn't messed with this car at night, so I hadn't turned on the headlights in years, the inspector pointed out the driver side headlight was really dim, too dim to pass inspection. No problem, I'll replace the bulb, replaced the bulb, still dim as can be. Cool, it's not the bulb, then I notice that with the car turned off, no accessories or anything on, if you turn on the headlights, the driver side blinker indicator (inside the cab) glows ever so slightly, if you turn your left blinker on when this is happening, the indicator light goes out, if you unplug the headlight, without the blinker on, the indicator glows much brighter...

OK, so this is looking suspicious, I decided to get more in depth into what the wiring for that blinker light looked like. It looked like this:

I2llgNb.jpg


So basically, the connector, spliced into three brown wires, spliced into blue wires, clipped into the infuriating connector block things, into the cars stock wiring. Plus a yellow wire just hanging out. Got to asking the previous owner (my dad) and he pointed out the aftermarket mirrors with blinkers on them that he paid someone to install. He seems to remember the wires for the blinkers on the mirrors being blue. There is some blue connector nonsense going on with the other light as well.

I'm getting rid of the aftermarket mirrors, buying new pigtails for both blinkers, and rewiring the whole thing. Has anyone done this before? I've worked in the electronics field for years so I'm confident I'll be able to get it done, I have the schematics. Does anyone know what the part name to the pigtails I'm looking for is? Are they common enough than I can just run down to autozone for them or am I going to have to order them and wait? How long are the wires that come out of the back of the pigtail when it comes? Long enough to splice back into the stock wiring, getting rid of all that excess stuff, and still reach to the light assembly? I'm trying to get rid of as many connections as possible.

Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
 

ttocs

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First, do not go have any electrical work done at the place that installed the mirrors.... If that was all done by one place then they are either to lazy to care or two stupid to learn with three different types of connection methods to splice into existing factory wires. Autozone does sell a few different headlight harnesses but not sure if they have one to match. As long ass there is a few inches of wire like you have there is no reason not to reuse that same harness as long as it has not broken anywhere else.
 

Thomas_W

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Its always worrysome when you see electrical tape and wire taps...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ttocs

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Looking at that pic again today it still makes the geeky installer giggle inside. I have to wonder if they only had 2 or 3 of each connector and 6" of tape or what happened to lead to that.
None of that wire is stock, trace it back to the stock wire, cut out everything that is not stock and start over. Its not that hard honestly just take one wire at a time.
 

lwarrior1016

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WHY?!?!?!?!

That looks like a lamp cord thats been separated and then cut up into small pieces and the blue wire almost looks like speaker wire.
 
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Texas_Black_5.0

Texas_Black_5.0

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OK, so I was out of town for business but now I can give an update:

I got all the frankenwire cleaned up, special thanks to ttocs for telling me to just reuse the same harness, I would have wasted some time and money on that.

I think that's got the battery drain issue solved when the car is not in use. But I want to verify for sure, so I was hoping you guys could give me some info. Here is the method I'm using to measure the amp draw on the battery. I disconnect the battery on the negative side, then I use a multi-meter, one lead on the post, one on the cable, to complete the circuit.

When I do that I get a reading of .21 amps for the first about 13 seconds. Then it drops to .08 and holds. It drops to .04 when you pull the faceplate from the stereo. I'm operating under the assumption that the initial reading shows some capacitor charging (in the turn signal flasher unit?) and that the .08 amps is the standard amp drop this car experiences when dormant, from stuff like the clock and the stereo and whatever else. Is this an expected/acceptable amount of drain on a battery? Do you guys know what your battery drain is and how it compares? Because if it's similar I'm going to happily declare this solved. At least this part of the problem...

The battery drains when you drive it. It always did, I thought the two were caused by the same thing and I was wrong. I'm having a hard time tracking down the reason. I found a pretty extensive alternator test, and everything reads correctly according to that, it is a new alternator. But if you hook up my at home battery charger tool, and run the alternator check it has, it says the alternator is bad. I took the battery to the local auto zone and it tested good. I checked continuity through those two fusible links and the fuse that make up the charging circuit, they all passed. What I think is happening is this, the alternator is charging, but there is something shorting to ground or pulling more than the alternator puts out. There are some other things going on with the car that may or may not be a part of all this. For one, the oil pressure gauge. I’ve read up on how simple the oil pressure sensor is in this car. When I start the car the oil pressure goes very high, then slowly creeps up to pegged-out-max. I changed the oil pressure sending unit, it didn’t help. Also, here is a picture of the connector for the fan.

Ub9uSRp.jpg


So that's not great. This car has a hard time keeping cool. I've been planning to upgrade the fan, I decided just to do that now, it connects differently than the stock fan, so this connector needs removed for that process. The fan is on order, this is getting fixed, but I don't know if it is the root of my issue.
What would be the best way to proceed? Isolate the issue by pulling fuses one by one? Does anyone know exactly which fuses are required for the car to run?
 

ttocs

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yes you are doing the amp check correctly. If you want to further narrow down which circuit is drawing, start pulling the fuses one at a time. At some point the current should drop to show which circuit is drawing and from there it is easier to narrow down which part of the circuit.
 

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