The everything suspension 95 GT

Discussion in 'Suspension and Brakes' started by beyondEOD, May 6, 2020.

  1. beyondEOD

    beyondEOD Member

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    Hello I'd like to hear some first hand advice for my goals. I have a 95 GT Automatic. My goal for the car is a fun street car 98% of the time at this point. I will take this to the drag strip occasionally and may also try autocross as some point.

    I'm going to leave out the motor setup and just want to focus on the suspension at this point. I would love to try and do as much as I can with less, budget is always a concern.

    Currently the car is on stands and I have the following going on soon.

    Front
    -BMR A-Arms w/Spring Perches
    -BMR 1 inch drop 525 Springs
    -Tokico D Spec Struts
    -Poly Spring ISOs
    -Stock 27mm Sway Bar
    -Poly Front end links and Sway Bushings
    -No strut brace (explorer intake)

    Rear
    -Strange 10 Way Shocks
    -BMR 1 inch drop 235 Springs
    -Poly Spring ISOs
    -Stock 95gt Sway Bar
    -MM Pinion Snubber
    -Stock Quads

    Future wants:
    -Would like to run a square tire setup on a 17x9.
    -Cobra Brakes
    -Rear Drag wheel and tire for strip

    Couple questions

    1. How does that setup look for starters?

    2. Do I need CC plates at this point?

    3. I need new Tie rod ends. At what point does one need bumpsteer kit vs regular rod ends?

    4. For the rear setup MM recommended the following: RLCAs with spherical bearings in both ends. Without those, the car will have a lot of wheel hop. For the UCAs you can use either new stock rubber bushings or Steeda UCAs with 3-piece polyurethane. Any input here?

    5. For what I'm wanting what subframes? Stifflers, Steeda, MM?

    6. Torque Boxes. Should I do upper and lower?
     
  2. Warhorse Racing

    Warhorse Racing Member

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    My experience is all in autocross, so I can't really help with the drag racing side of your build. But, in terms of autocross, it's a very good start.

    You don't need a ton of mods to start autocrossing. It's better to change the car after you have some experience on course.

    You have adjustable shocks and struts, which will help get the car closer to neutral handling.

    1" is as low as I would go in a non-coil over car (these cars handle better for autocross when they aren't slammed to the ground).

    Around 1 inch, you start to get into the area of needing CC Plates and a bump steer kit. But, that's not set in stone. If you plan on doing several autocross events a year, you will want more negative camber. This will help reduce understeer and you won't wear out the OUTER edges of your front tires as quickly. But, if it's a daily driver, you won't want -3 degrees of camber in the car (that will wear out the INSIDE edges of your tires).

    If you never plan on installing coil overs, 3-bolt CC Plates will be less expensive and work fine. I use Steeda 3-bolt CC Plates on all my autocross cars.

    You might want to mock-up your tie rods and see how they sit when the car is on the ground; that angle will determine if you need a bump steer kit.

    The rear end is where drag racing and autocross can take you in two different directions. I'm not a big fan of spherical bearings in both ends of the LCAs for autocross. I've used Steeda LCAs/UCAs on my SRA cars (with 3-piece poly on both ends), and they performed and held up really well. I didn't use Torque Box reinforcements and my Torque Boxes looked fine after several seasons. If you're drag racing the car, I think it's wise to strengthen the Torque Boxes.

    Perhaps LCAs with 3-piece poly at the chassis and a spherical bearing at the rear end would work for drag/autocross? I would check with someone who drag races about that.

    I would recommend Spherical Upper Axle Bearings for autocross. I talk about the LCAs/UCAs and Spherical Upper Axle Bearings in this video...



    I have since installed J&M Spherical Upper Axle Bushings in my 1992 GT autocross car and they made a huge difference.

    You should run a square setup, and 17x9 is a good size for your goals.

    I'm a big fan of the Stifflers FIT System, but that might be overkill for the amount of racing you intend to do. A good set of subframe connectors that have a cross-brace under the seats will work. If you think you'll do more autocrossing in the future, get the Stifflers subframe connectors, they work with the FIT System and can be purchased individually.

    Make sure your Quad Shocks are still working. I'm a fan of keeping them on an autocross car, but many people remove them. Having autocrossed cars with and without Quad Shocks, I prefer to have them on the car.

    Cobra brakes with good pads will be all you'll ever need for autocross. I use OEM Cobra brakes on all my autocross cars with Hawk HP-Plus pads and they work very well. I wouldn't recommend the HP-Plus pads for street driving.

    I hope that helps. If you have any more questions, please ask.
     
  3. beyondEOD

    beyondEOD Member

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    Very very helpful response. Thank you so much. I have watched almost all your videos. You have great content and do a good job editing.

    I did forget to mention I currently do not have the stock shock tower brace due to the explorer intake.

    Since you mention J&M, any experience with their caster plates. Their price is nicer.

    I bought the Wild Rides upper and lower torque box kit today for $90.

    For the subframes I'll look for the best deal I can find. I do like the fact that with the stifflers I can add on later. Steeda stood out to me because theirs included an additional tq box reenforcement, not sure if this makes them better than stifflers.

    I'll mock up the tie rod ends and see how it looks. Should match the a arm angle correct?

    Since you adjust your setup do you have a good set of alignment tools that you use?

    As for the rear I'll tell MM that I'm looking to try autocross and see if that changes their recommendation. Also ill tell them that I'll be doing tq boxes.

    Quad shocks are original 1995 with 75k miles on them. Probably replace?

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  4. evilcw311

    evilcw311 Most Evil Member! SN95 Supporter

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    Get a k member to help stiffen the front and shave weight


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  5. Warhorse Racing

    Warhorse Racing Member

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    I'm glad I could help. And thanks for checking out my videos.

    Does the Explorer intake hit ALL strut tower braces, or just OEM braces?

    I have not used the J&M CC Plates, but based on the quality of the Upper Axle Bushings and SS Brake lines I've used, I think they'll work well.

    There are many things that factor into bump steer. Having the tie rods level with the steering rack (not angled up toward the spindle) usually means you don't need a bump steer kit.

    I only adjust the shocks, struts and rear adjustable sway bar on my SRA car. My cars aren't daily driven, so I leave the camber settings where they need to be for autocross. If you plan on knocking in camber at events, you can make two permanent marks on the CC plates that indicate "street" and "autocross" camber.

    The combination of age and mileage suggests your Quad Shocks are probably not working as well as they should. If you aren't cramming massive tires in the rear (you shouldn't, staggered is bad for autocross), you can get KYB Quad Shocks. They have a covered piston and can hit larger tires, but they are inexpensive. You do NOT need to buy super-expensive Quad Shocks. They just need to work.
     
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  6. beyondEOD

    beyondEOD Member

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    I will have to research the strut braces. I believe some of the aftermarket ones work.

    I'll look into the quads.

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  7. beyondEOD

    beyondEOD Member

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    Ok I ordered the isolators and pinion snubber last night. Ordering the quads soon. I'm going to see how its does without the caster plates and bumpsteer. If I need them I'll order. I figure I'll really only be around 3/4 drop with the new isolators installed.

    I'm going to hold off on subframes for the immediate moment until I figure out if I need the CC and Bump kit.

    I wont be installing the battle box kit until I have different UCA/LCAs as I dont want to disassemble twice if I dont have too.

    I'll definitely do the spherical upper mount on the diff. If I invest in the MM tool is that all I need to install them?

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  8. Warhorse Racing

    Warhorse Racing Member

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    I think that's a good plan.

    The MM tool makes removing the factory bushings and shells much easier if the rear end is still in the car. It will also help install the spherical bushings in the diff housing. When I installed them in my Fox, I put the spherical bushings in the freezer overnight and they just slid into place without the tool. But, based on my research, that's probably not the case every time.

    You will need some Blue Loctite and a wrench wide enough to install the retaining nut. Don't overtighten the retaining nut; it's aluminum.
     
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  9. beyondEOD

    beyondEOD Member

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    I was able to grab some lightly used steeda 3 bolt CC plates for $100.

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  10. Warhorse Racing

    Warhorse Racing Member

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    That's a good deal. Make sure to get the instructions (Steeda has them on their website). The metal spacer orientation varies with different struts and springs.

    Because you will need to get an alignment after you install the CC Plates, it's worth changing your steering rack bushings (if they're OEM, they're pretty old). You can choose between Poly, Delrin or Aluminum.

    Steering rack bushings are often overlooked and you don't want to find out that they're bad after you've had the car aligned.
     
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  11. beyondEOD

    beyondEOD Member

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    Steeda sells a poly and MM recommends the Aluminum ones. Cost is within a reasonable amount if the aluminum is better. Global West makes derlin for the fox but not the SN from what I could see on their site.

    Aluminum worth the money?

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  12. Warhorse Racing

    Warhorse Racing Member

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    I would double-check this with GW... Most poly steering rack bushings fit 86-04 Mustangs. That leads me to believe the GW 86-93 RB-3 Delrin rack bushings would work on 94-04 cars. It's worth calling GW and asking if there's a specific reason why their bushings wouldn't work in 94-04 cars.

    The MM Aluminum rack bushings performed really well in my 2000 GT, but they do transfer more vibration and harshness into the steering wheel. If your car isn't primarily an autocross car, they might be overkill. They were a BIG improvement over the poly bushings I took out.

    The Delrin bushings felt as good as the Aluminum bushings in terms of steering feel, without as much added vibration and harshness. And the Delrin is an easier install.
     
  13. beyondEOD

    beyondEOD Member

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    Perfect GW is in the next town over from me. I'll call them.

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  14. beyondEOD

    beyondEOD Member

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    Actually I guess there are not the next town over. Either way I'm calling.

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  15. Warhorse Racing

    Warhorse Racing Member

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    Please let me know what they say. I just double-checked the MM Aluminum bushings and they work for 85-04 Mustangs with a stock K-member. The fact that the other types of bushings work on both generations makes it seem very likely that the GW bushings will work on 94-04 cars.
     
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  16. evilcw311

    evilcw311 Most Evil Member! SN95 Supporter

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    Steering Bushings are the exact same for the fox’s as they are for the sn’s and new edges.


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  17. Warhorse Racing

    Warhorse Racing Member

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    For some reason, GW says their RB-3 Delrin bushings fit "86-93 Mustangs". That could simply be due to the fact that they don't focus much on 94-04 cars. I'm pretty certain the GW bushings will fit our cars. But, it can't hurt to check with GW before ordering.
     
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  18. beyondEOD

    beyondEOD Member

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    GWs are good for 84-04. I ordered them. Slight backorder though.

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  19. waynenorcross

    waynenorcross New Member

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    I used aluminum offset bushings in my slightly lowered '94 rack and they worked good.
     
  20. TheOdessa

    TheOdessa Member

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    I'd do MM CC plates. They are extremely high quality and you'll never look back.

    On a 1" drop, I'd just get MOOG tie rod ends. While I was in there I did MOOG inners as well but that's depending on your budget.

    I've read to use stock UCA with new rubber bushings but I did get the BBK uppers. I don't drag hard so I'm not sure what issues I'll run into. I also have BMR UCA reinforcement kit with weld in battle box reinforcements.

    Subframes I have MM and they fit amazingly well and made a HUGE difference.

    It's hard to go wrong with anything MM. Their advice is usually rock solid on our platforms. Good luck!