the momstang rebuild begins TOOK A TRIP AROUND THE BLOCK!

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Factory base idle was around 10 and with mild tuning you could get it up to around 14 with no issues. You didn’t do any crazy cams or higher compression so I wouldn’t go much higher than that.


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see now at 210 degrees its at 12 degrees. I am going to play with it tomorrow and see what runs the best. In the video I had it at 25 degrees at the temp it was running at
 
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if it ain't one thing then I can find another.... During the 5-6 times I had to jack up the passenger side to adjust the ride height sensor it was strange to see a fuel leak just between my first filter and pump. It didn't make any sense to me because it didn't leak when I was running the car and it was under pressure. I tightened the connection a little bit and then when I ran it last night I looked when I was done and there was no leak. Tonight I come back out to find another small puddle under the same fitting. I again take it off and make a much closer inspection but can't find an problem so I again put it together, start the car and there is no leak. I do some tweeking/tuning and when I am almost finished and closing up the garage I again see the same puddle. Now I am on a quest to find a 6" piece of -10 an fuel hose this holiday weekend. I know I got some somewhere but I can only seem to find some -6... How does a hose leak with no pressure and seal with the key on? I assume its causing some kind of expansion or something but idunno....
 
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All I can say is that your a happy dude when after a long search, you finally find your hose... I took the old ends off afraid that maybe there was a leak in one of them as the hose was only 5" long and there didn't appear to be any problems with it. Cut a new piece and put the old ends back on and was happy to see it sealed. Then I crossed my fingers and came back in an hour, two hours, three hours to check that the fittings were still dry and they were. I made a couple changes to the IAC hold position to let it fire up faster and adjusted the timing table so now its holding a nice lopey idle at 800 with everything in check. Its revving up to 4k pretty smoothly and after an adjustment to the IAC ramp down its recovering nicely from short revs. I am afraid to say that I am starting to enjoy looking over the data to see what needs to be changed or adjusted and learning how to do it. With that being said I am not a fool to think that there are more sections of the tuning that I do not yet know and need to so I am happy that I found someone reliable that does remote tuning with the holley system live so he can show what he is doing and teach as well. Now with no fuel leaks I have to wait till the holiday weekend to get the abs pump bled but I am gonna have to get it up to temp and take it for a short drive tomorrow.
 
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every have one of those days where you just can't seem to win but by the end of the day it isn't that bad? last night I decided to take the car for a short spin. The brakes were my biggest concern and I was not going to go far because of them but after maybe a few 100 yrds I was actually scared at how the front end was handling. I went to pull a U-turn and heard a popping noise that didn't make me happy and went back home. Looking at the front end the front tires were actually pointing in towards each other a just a bit for some reason. Today I got it jacked up and not sure if I just never paid attention to them or what as all the joints looked tight so after a few adjustments now they look like they are straight.

Another problem I had on my drive last night was that I killed it pulling into the driveway and it did not want to start hot at 190 degrees. Today I did some reading on the holley forum and made some adjustments and tonight it fired up better both cold and just in general at 190 so = win.

oh yea the bad news was the popping noise during the u-turn. Turns out the place the ride height sensor was mounted by the shop that originally did the work was not happy with the larger wheels/tires and during that turn it popped the sensor off of its mount. I have a new sensor ordered as well as some steering limiters but I might also see about moving the sensor as well. Ya win some ya loose some....
 
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I got under the car and adjusted the steering so it was better while waiting for the new sensor and some steering rack limiters. I also did a remote tuning session and was happy to see that it was running/idling really nicely and starting while hot. I was hoping the rack limiters would allow the wheels to turn enough and not rip off the ride height sensor but after 2 limiters it was still going to rub so the only other option was to move/flip the ride height sensor so that it was behind the strut which of course required some other slight modifications to wiring and brake lines. So I got everything moved around, put back together and then cleaned up and put the wheels back on and double checked that they would not rub anything and put it on the ground. Not sure why but now it looks like the steering still needs an adjustment made to it now and of course after the remote tuning session it doesn't seem to want to start cold now... Its been a long day, I will try again tomorrow.
 

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Not if he is sitting around reading the fake news!

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Not if he is sitting around reading the fake news!

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I told you already I do not follow what alex jones reports :)

The remote tuning session the other day exposed a problem with my throttle position sensor. When the motor would get up to temp it would drift from 1-6% off randomly. I diagnosed the problem with technical taps by tapping on it with my knuckles and watching the live data jump each time I did it. As I went to the store to get a new tps sensor it occurred to me that the sensor might be original from 94, but then at the very least the harness to it was as I took it off the stock harness to make this one. TPS is just a variable resistor that when voltage is applied to it, the computer can read the change in voltage to know how far its being pushed. If the harness was not tight(heat expansion it seemed) it could cause a variation in voltage. I got the new sensor they had in stock and had them transfer in a new harness in case it was that. I swapped out the tps and fired the car up and thought I was all good. Then when it crossed the 140 degree mark again tapping on the sensor showed it drifting and now the harness was much looser and it again cause it to drift by wiggling it. So I picked up the new harness to night and will put it on tomorrow hopefully.
 
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so I did another remote tuning, at least the 1rst hour of one. We had problems at the end of the first session when we realized the throttle position sensor was starting to drift when I wasn't touching the throttle. Suddenly it would show 3-5% and that would change everything in the tune when it thinks I am starting to give it gas. I checked it the next morning when it was cold and it didn't do it so it was something heat related. On the way to vatozone after some thought I realized that it could also be the harness on the tps that was getting hot, expanding and causing it to drift. They had the tps, not the harness so I took the tps and had them transfer in the harness. The next day I slapped it on, fired it up and again cold it showed no problem and once it hit 140 degrees then it started to drift again. This time I giggled the harness to see it was much looser and that caused it to drift, so back to vatozone the next day for the harness. Now with new plugs, new harness/tps its not drifting up at temp and running MUCH better. Not sure how long that its been doing that but its probably been screwing me the whole time. I had been chasing the throttle stop screw/IAC balance for a while now. I was also having a problem with my cut outs but after a quick look I have my loud button back. I will get a video tomorrow in what I hope is an identical warm up to today
 
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its been a while but not because I have not done anything to it. I still need to do another remote tuning session but money has been holding that up. I would also take it for a short ride but the roads in front of my house and a 100 yrs before and after has been torn up in the name of construction. I think they are actually trying to make it worse and if so they are doing a great job... With the alignment still off I just don't want to risk it so I decided to concentrate on putting the interior back together. I thought I would start simple and slide the airbag in and if you saw my question on the passenger airbag differences that went about the normal one step forward two back. The inner dash where the bracket mounts too was bend when the old one went off and it made any new bag slid in stick out 2". So I decided to make a cover and give it some attitude.
36u9RtX.jpg

0SUgqKY.jpg

ExFmM9N.jpg

I used a 1/32" end mill to do the small details on it.
So then I thought I would put the drivers side airbag in. Easy right? Well while I was trying to tighten the screws for the bag I could not get the horn to quit honking and after removing the horn switch I discovered they were also bend when that bag went off. So now I have new switches on the way and I can finish installing it... I decided to fill the hole in the center of the dash so I got the new metra kit and then modified it to house the usb and remote radar detector buttons.
iGoRvoc.jpg
 
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I am trying to finish up getting the interior back together. When I put the stock door panels back on I remembered that I had got these ford puddle lights to go in the ones I was building when I had the wreck. They were pretty easy to install considering I had the wire to power it already in the door so I threw them in. Seeing them lit tonight for the first time I think I will angle them a bit to match the mustang logo angle.
6gimFeI.jpg

at the moment they come on when the door is open but I have a switch to turn them off if I want. I have some more wires to clean up before I can install the kick panels but with door panels, the airbags, center dash all in place I hardly recognize it.
 

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I have the exact same lights. Only thing I don’t like is how small the light is when they’re that low. I want to find a spare power mirror to dissemble and see if there’s any room to put them in so that the image will be larger on the ground.


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these are 5-6 yrs old and I don't doubt they have a different style now that is smaller. With these if you were more then a foot away the image got blurry pretty quick. These look like a long lipstick container as far as size and I am also not sure they would fit in a mirror with out causing a problem in the mirrors movement. I always enjoyed the light up sills myself and I think these will give me just as many grins. I know some of our crowd will roll their eyes and repeat "RICE" like a zombie but I am fine with that.
 

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these are 5-6 yrs old and I don't doubt they have a different style now that is smaller. With these if you were more then a foot away the image got blurry pretty quick. These look like a long lipstick container as far as size and I am also not sure they would fit in a mirror with out causing a problem in the mirrors movement. I always enjoyed the light up sills myself and I think these will give me just as many grins. I know some of our crowd will roll their eyes and repeat "RICE" like a zombie but I am fine with that.

I fired them up and held them right at mirrors height and the image was perfect. There is a little more room than you think but that’s why I need a power mirror to take apart and look.




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Scott here’s old pics for reference. I took these when I first got the lights years ago. One in day light and one in the evening.
168b912fcc54f5c17d559b7a02b6cbab.jpg
2d5457d6549ffb3b48260f51dd71fd79.jpg


Both were taken from the same height as the mirrors


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we were finally able to finish the tune yesterday now with out the tps giving problems. I took it for a short drive today but it was limited still by the fact the brakes and alignment sucks but it was the first time the motor didn't seem to stumble or have issues so I count that as a win. I am going to check something on the brakes asap and see if I can get them any better before I go have the abs pump cycled to bleed it and the alignment done.
 
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so over the past month when it was running I started to notice a rattling noise from the passenger side of the car. Originally it would only start after the motor was hot but now over the past couple of starts its been from right from the first crank and getting louder. Last night as I pulled it in to the garage I was really concerned. I am pretty sure its the cat converter on that side rattling in the housing. Why am I running cats? I got the pipe in Az where they did inspections and got it used(magnaflow catted high flow X) for $100 with out a mark on it. So now another X has been ordered and I will be swapping it out.
 

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