ElrodKTPQ_89
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I’ll probably get a delete block myself.
the momstang rebuild begins TOOK A TRIP AROUND THE BLOCK!
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I’ll probably get a delete block myself.
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I considered it but I am not going to act like I am a pro driver, or that I have even ever driven a car with out abs into locking up to know how to react. Yes I know pump the brakes but I am afraid the learning curve from abs to non-abs could be high and expensive especially considering this entire build started because I could not stop fast enough.... It would make it easier by a lot to delete it but this build has never been about making something easy by deleting a part that is known to work.
It is not actually as bad as you might think. Add in a quality proportioning valve and a bit of study on Threshold Braking and you would be able to get the car pretty well dialed in, but that is just my thoughts. Having a lot of training in emergency vehicles without ABS (big Firetrucks) in the past I'm very comfortable driving (braking) at the limits.
Once you understand the balance and behavior of the vehicle Threshold Braking in good conditions is proven to be faster than ABS. Now that changes in in-climate conditions however it is still just being aware of what is going on.
Personally I believe it makes you a more focused, more in-tune, and more confident driver rather than relying on R2D2 to make decisions when the driver forgets to monitor road conditions or leave adequate space, but again my opinion. That to comes with 17 years of driving emergency vehicles and cars in Solo II to the limit.
....and it is less electronic s**t to fail
Once you understand the balance and behavior of the vehicle Threshold Braking in good conditions is proven to be faster than ABS. Now that changes in in-climate conditions however it is still just being aware of what is going on.
Personally I believe it makes you a more focused, more in-tune, and more confident driver rather than relying on R2D2 to make decisions when the driver forgets to monitor road conditions or leave adequate space, but again my opinion. That to comes with 17 years of driving emergency vehicles and cars in Solo II to the limit.
....and it is less electronic s**t to fail
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"a bit of study on threshold breaking" - this sounds all nice and dandy on here, and I have experienced it on forza with no abs but again now that I have added just a itty bit more hp, I am not sure this is the time to start testing my braking threshold and learning how to operate with out abs. It just seems like a great way to set myself up to fail.
I was really tempted to go with grundy insurance but it just seemed too damn cheap at $200/year. All the others were 2x as much but I don't trust insurance companies any more then I do dr's, cheap dr's and cheap insurance again just seems like I am setting up to fail so I went with haggardy.
I needed to put my dash back together before I could move it as at the moment it looks like the gauges puked on the steering wheel. As i did I noticed the digital dash was not reading some things correct. I have a question on their forum that will hopefully answer it and allow me to put it in. I took the time to tweek the tune a bit and bring the idle down. up till now I have had it idling around 950 rpms, too high. Not sure where it should be but I moved it down to 850 and it afr was stable and it seemed to be holding ok. I have to be honest it sounded pretty damn good and seemed to be reving better when I took it up 4k.
Tomorrow if I can get out I am going to take care of the registration and if I can figure out the dash program finish aiming the lights finally.
I was really tempted to go with grundy insurance but it just seemed too damn cheap at $200/year. All the others were 2x as much but I don't trust insurance companies any more then I do dr's, cheap dr's and cheap insurance again just seems like I am setting up to fail so I went with haggardy.
I needed to put my dash back together before I could move it as at the moment it looks like the gauges puked on the steering wheel. As i did I noticed the digital dash was not reading some things correct. I have a question on their forum that will hopefully answer it and allow me to put it in. I took the time to tweek the tune a bit and bring the idle down. up till now I have had it idling around 950 rpms, too high. Not sure where it should be but I moved it down to 850 and it afr was stable and it seemed to be holding ok. I have to be honest it sounded pretty damn good and seemed to be reving better when I took it up 4k.
Tomorrow if I can get out I am going to take care of the registration and if I can figure out the dash program finish aiming the lights finally.
Scott I just gotta ask..........
You mentioned needing abs now cause of the added hp, but do you generally hit the gas and the brakes at the same time??? [emoji6]
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You mentioned needing abs now cause of the added hp, but do you generally hit the gas and the brakes at the same time??? [emoji6]
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Post Whore
this/your the exact reason I put the eject button in the car.
I thought my name was on the new loud button???? Not eject........... [emoji38]
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the eject button operates the line lock
95opal
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BIt is not actually as bad as you might think. Add in a quality proportioning valve and a bit of study on Threshold Braking and you would be able to get the car pretty well dialed in, but that is just my thoughts. Having a lot of training in emergency vehicles without ABS (big Firetrucks) in the past I'm very comfortable driving (braking) at the limits.
Once you understand the balance and behavior of the vehicle Threshold Braking in good conditions is proven to be faster than ABS. Now that changes in in-climate conditions however it is still just being aware of what is going on.
Personally I believe it makes you a more focused, more in-tune, and more confident driver rather than relying on R2D2 to make decisions when the driver forgets to monitor road conditions or leave adequate space, but again my opinion. That to comes with 17 years of driving emergency vehicles and cars in Solo II to the limit.
....and it is less electronic s**t to fail
Been saying the exact thing for years. Abs us nothing more than a fail safe and 99.9% of stangers dont run stock size tires and wheels which inturn throws the Abs into fubar mode off the rip. To me its nothing more than i big idiot light with a lot of added weight and clutter.
If you haven’t been in a lot of “oh shit” moments, its probably best to leave the ABS intact. Panic braking isn’t something you have time to think about - it’s purly reactionary - so if you haven’t had any practice to train yourself to react properly, chances are you’re just gonna mash the brake pedal as hard as humanly possible and lock up the wheels - and that’s why ABS exists.
^ intellectual thought placed into words. Im impressed!
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so explain to me how since it has not been on the road for 6 years that the state back charged me for last year as well as this years, and now its only good till oct?! I was so happy just to have it legal I didn't really think about what she said till I was driving home. Another question, if it was salvaged officially it would say it on the title or registration wouldn't it? It is a new title, it looks just like the old one that I found 2 days after receiving the new one, thinking the old one was lost.
Does your state make you hand in your plates when you take it off the road? In NY, if you don’t hand in your plates, you’re responsible for paying registration fees regardless if it’s running and driving. It also needs insurance as well. Here in WA, none of that is true.
In Kentucky you just tell them it’s off the road and you cancel insurance. But you still have to pay taxes on it each year. Once I’m ready to put it back on the road I get insurance and go pay for a new tag.
Not sure about the title. I could of swore in Indiana that it showed salvaged title
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Not sure about the title. I could of swore in Indiana that it showed salvaged title
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I pulled it out last night and started to adjust the lights only to find out that two mounts on each light were just loose enough that no matter what I did I could still grab and move the lights. I took them out today and the fittings are press fit and just loose enough that they would wiggle no matter what. So a few dabs of epoxy locked them in place and I was able to confirm finally that I will be able to get them where I want them. I will start putting them together tomorrow.
I was also finally able to track down the source of the digital dash reading wrong. Goes back to when I upgraded the ecu firmware to V5, silly me to think the dash display would not need an update as well. I just consider it a display/monitor but there is a lot more to it that I forget about. So after a quick update it is all reading correctly now and for the first time in a long time I was able to put it all back together.
I started to dick with the idle speed tonight. I have had it at 1000 rpms up till now and I have been wanting to move it down a bit but I have been busy with everything else. I tried 750 but it didn't seen to like it much. Tried 800 and it was still stumbling a bit so tomorrow I will try 825 and see if its happy.
Tomorrow I am going try to find a shop that has the abs diagnostic computer and can do alignments.
I was also finally able to track down the source of the digital dash reading wrong. Goes back to when I upgraded the ecu firmware to V5, silly me to think the dash display would not need an update as well. I just consider it a display/monitor but there is a lot more to it that I forget about. So after a quick update it is all reading correctly now and for the first time in a long time I was able to put it all back together.
I started to dick with the idle speed tonight. I have had it at 1000 rpms up till now and I have been wanting to move it down a bit but I have been busy with everything else. I tried 750 but it didn't seen to like it much. Tried 800 and it was still stumbling a bit so tomorrow I will try 825 and see if its happy.
Tomorrow I am going try to find a shop that has the abs diagnostic computer and can do alignments.
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Post Whore
I got the lights back together and mounted. Really happy I went with the one piece style and retrofit.
Also spent a good 45 mins making some adjustments on the digital dash. You can do anything with this thing its just a matter of if you know how, and how long you want to spend hunched over with your head almost to the steering wheel to read all the settings.
My stomach has kept me from getting underneath it to see what is up with the ride height sensors but hopefully today I can tackle that.
Also spent a good 45 mins making some adjustments on the digital dash. You can do anything with this thing its just a matter of if you know how, and how long you want to spend hunched over with your head almost to the steering wheel to read all the settings.
My stomach has kept me from getting underneath it to see what is up with the ride height sensors but hopefully today I can tackle that.
DKblue98GT
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Definitely not your average SN95 dash... Looks awesome.
97stanger
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That came out awesome. Looks great and functional. This is how I ended up setting up mine
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I am not sure why but one of the rear ride height sensors has been having issues. Not sure what changed with it in all the other changes but it was reading just a TAD too high when it was all aired out and causing issues with the controller. I had to jack the car up/down 6 times to make adjustments to it to get it back down to the right voltage but now its finally working right.
I have not really done much to the base tune because I had been chasing fuel gremlins all related to a dirty tank. Now that I think I finally have all them out(knock on mofoing wood/fingers crossed) I have finally been able to look into the tune. The idle has been too high this whole time at 1000 rpms just to get it running but I was finally able to fine tune the throttle stop and iac and get it down to 800 rpms and it has its got its lope back. Also while looking around I discovered the base idle timing at warm up temps was set to 30 degrees and causing problems. I am no expert on it by any means but even the graph didn't look happy. I made sure to save and back up all my old tuning adjustments and then I got a little crazy and started adjusting the timing down and I might be learning something. It fired right up and still needs to be knocked down more and some other adjustments but its sounding so much better now. Any recommendations as for idle base idle timing at low temps?
I have not really done much to the base tune because I had been chasing fuel gremlins all related to a dirty tank. Now that I think I finally have all them out(knock on mofoing wood/fingers crossed) I have finally been able to look into the tune. The idle has been too high this whole time at 1000 rpms just to get it running but I was finally able to fine tune the throttle stop and iac and get it down to 800 rpms and it has its got its lope back. Also while looking around I discovered the base idle timing at warm up temps was set to 30 degrees and causing problems. I am no expert on it by any means but even the graph didn't look happy. I made sure to save and back up all my old tuning adjustments and then I got a little crazy and started adjusting the timing down and I might be learning something. It fired right up and still needs to be knocked down more and some other adjustments but its sounding so much better now. Any recommendations as for idle base idle timing at low temps?
Factory base idle was around 10 and with mild tuning you could get it up to around 14 with no issues. You didn’t do any crazy cams or higher compression so I wouldn’t go much higher than that.
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