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Thinking about buying a 98 GT convertable. Opinions wanted.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by DKblue98GT, Feb 4, 2016.

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  1. Feb 4, 2016 #1
    DKblue98GT

    DKblue98GT Well-Known Member

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    I'm thinking about buying a 98 convertible and swapping over all of the mods from my 98 GT coupe. I would like to hear your opinions on the pro's and con's of a vert. My end goal is a fun driver with about 300rwhp and good handling. I would definitely do subframe connectors and probably a MM rollbar. I also plan to stay 2 valve and a 5 speed.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Feb 5, 2016 #2
    joekd

    joekd Well-Known Member

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    Plus - open air driving, Negative - have to maintain top and eventually replace

    Sorry, that's all I have :)
     
  3. Feb 5, 2016 #3
    stingracer

    stingracer Member

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    Joekd pretty much nailed it. Your plans are exactly inline with mine.

    I mainly like it for nice drives to the beach or Keywest and a little power to have fun with friends. The car rattles a bit and is louder than a coupe would be but I really enjoy drives with the top down. My car is a weekend car, therefore I don't daily it. If I had to daily the car I would have sold it a long time ago.
     
  4. Feb 5, 2016 #4
    DKblue98GT

    DKblue98GT Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the replies! I like the idea of a convertible but a car that rattles would bug.

    I am considering another car because my 98 by has some issues.
    My clear coat is so oxidized that the car looks horrible.
    My PATS system has me locked out right now...

    For what it would cost to fix these 2 issues I can buy another 98 GT with good paint since these cars are not worth much.

    My "donor" has a lot of good parts, most of which I can easily move to a good car.
    Engine:
    PI intake
    SR 70MM intake and plenum with a cold air kit
    MSD coils and Ford racing wires
    Steeda underdrive pulleys
    BBK shorty headers
    SLP catted X pipe
    Magnaflow exhaust
    New radiator
    New battery
    New PS pump
    Walbro 255 fuel pump
    Energy suspension motor and trans mounts
    SVE clutch and New Ford racing flywheel
    Stifflers trans crossmember
    Ford racing aluminum driveshaft
    SCT tuner
    I just need some PI heads and good cams

    Suspension:
    MM subframe connectors
    MM strut tower brace
    MM steering shaft
    MM cc plates
    MM solid rack bushings
    MM hd rear lower control arms
    MM pinion snubber
    J&M rear upper control arms
    New axle side Ford control arm bushings
    Tokico blue shocks and struts
    Eibach Pro kit springs
    Eibach sway bars
    Cobra brakes with stainless hoses and Power slot rotors
    New Moog ball joints
    Poly front control arm bushings
    Steeda bump steer kit
    17x9 and 17x10.5 Bullit wheels with 275 and 315 MT Street comps

    Exterior:
    Cobra front bumper
    2" Cobra R hood
    Cobra headlights
    Shorty antenna

    Interior:
    New grey carpet
    Corbeau CR 1 seats
    Triax shifter
    Rear seat delete
    Pioneer receiver with 4 6x8 speakers. I still need a subwoofer.

    So the only question now is which body style... I am not in a big rush to find a car and I don't mind travelling for a good one.

    Any more opinions are welcome.
    Thanks!
     
  5. Feb 5, 2016 #5
    PinkieT

    PinkieT Well-Known Member

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    My wife and I both have 98 GT ragtops for weekend fun. Coupes are common, ragtops not. We love them! Nothing like cruising around on nice day with the top down. Absolutetly, do the chassis stiffening mods - subframe, strut brace, rear shock tower brace. Might not be the best choice for a daily driver, but for a toy why the hell not. Add a style bar!
     
  6. Feb 5, 2016 #6
    blackdemon007

    blackdemon007 Active Member

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    I am basically at the point you want to be with my 98 vert - 300hp, 5speed, sfc, and 4 point roll bar.

    As stated above being able to put the top down is great, but will need maintenance and possible replacement.
    Replacement isn't really a concern of mine as the parts are available and can be done by a shop for about $1000.
    However, be sure that the header seal (weatherstripping around the windshield for the top) is in good condition, because I have not found a quality replacement. It will leak if damaged.

    If the roads where you live are hole filled and bumpy like the ones in Ohio, it will limit your lowering capability, due to the extra bracing beneath the k-member.
    First set of springs I bought lowered the car about 2 inches in the front and I hit the skid plate everywhere, but it did protect the oil pan.
    The extra bracing also limits long tube options, but haven't seen any fitment issues with shortys.

    All in all I much prefer my vert over the coupe for SN95 and love every minute of driving.
     
  7. Feb 5, 2016 #7
    Tally_4.6

    Tally_4.6 Well-Known Member

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    You posted a thread?!?!

    lol
     
  8. Feb 5, 2016 #8
    DKblue98GT

    DKblue98GT Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I know... I'm still figuring out what to do.

    Lots of things I didn't know like rattles, the brace scraping, the header seal. I know what to look for in a hardtop but not a vert. I want the best car for the least amount I can spend.

    Thanks again guys. Any info is appreciated!
     
  9. Feb 5, 2016 #9
    Tally_4.6

    Tally_4.6 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah for somebody like me the rattles drive me up the wall. And with my H&Rs I scrape damn near everything with the xBrace. My top seal is still holding up for now though.

    Tha trap house.
     
  10. Feb 6, 2016 #10
    g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Just remove the 25 pound weight lol
     
  11. Feb 6, 2016 #11
    Tally_4.6

    Tally_4.6 Well-Known Member

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    Where is that thing anyway

    Tha trap house.
     
  12. Feb 6, 2016 #12
    evilcw311

    evilcw311 Most Evil Mod! Staff Member Staff

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    Front right fenderwell


    This message courtesy of crapatalk!
     
  13. Feb 6, 2016 #13
    g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    If you look up towards the headlight area from under the car you should be able to see it. It literally says "25 LB" on it
     
  14. Feb 6, 2016 #14
    Tally_4.6

    Tally_4.6 Well-Known Member

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    Easy to remove without taking much apart?

    Tha trap house.
     
  15. Feb 6, 2016 #15
    DKblue98GT

    DKblue98GT Well-Known Member

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    Is it only on convertables?
     
  16. Feb 6, 2016 #16
    Tally_4.6

    Tally_4.6 Well-Known Member

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    Yes.

    Tha trap house.
     
  17. Feb 6, 2016 #17
    DropTopPony

    DropTopPony Administrator Staff Member Admin SN95 Supporter

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    The weight is only on 94/95 verts IIRC.

    I prefer a convertible and drove mine daily for @ 5 years or so. I drove it up and down I-95 from NJ to FL a few times also.
     
  18. Feb 6, 2016 #18
    g36 monkey

    g36 monkey Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    That may be right, I have only removed it on 94/95 because I've never played with a 96+ vert. hmmm
     
  19. Feb 6, 2016 #19
    joekd

    joekd Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I actually went looking for that weight when I had my 96, oh well
     
  20. Feb 7, 2016 #20
    PinkieT

    PinkieT Well-Known Member

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    I swapped the interior on my wife's car and added a strut tower brace. Rattled over bumps, drove us nuts. I stripped the dash to the essentials and still couldn't find it. Took the dash out, checked all parts, padded possible trouble areas, put it back in, still rattled. Turns out a small fitting on a hose on top of the motor was hitting the strut brace. Twisted it 1/4 turn, car no longer rattles. Don't blame the 'vert part for all rattles, they could be someplace else!
     
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