This $#!+box, now P1740 code, trans solenoid?

Wmac

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If you decide to replace the tcc, make sure you get one for your vehicle year. There are 2 types, the early one had a wiring harness connector, the other had a type of printed circuit board connector.

If you have not changed the filter, your overdue. If you think the fluid is clean, strain it with a paint strainer and reuse. I did this in a 5r55e when I had to pull thr vb several times. Worked just fine.
 
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dwcopple

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I'll pull the pan tonight. Plan on getting the solenoids, accumulator springs for 1-2, filter, and a Dorman pan with drain plug. If that doesn't do it, I'm parting this car out. F it
 

Wmac

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Good choice on parts, you will need a "big" set of snap ring pliers, a method to compress the 1/2 accumulator and check that bore for wear. Maybe consider a new hard wiring harness, what I referred to as a printed circuit board above.

Good luck.
 
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dwcopple

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Pulled the pan, magnet was sludged. Fluid clear, no sparkles. Here is the residue in the pan. The OEM plastic plug was still in the pan and the filter was marked Filtran Motormesh? I'm gonna install a new filter, new solenoids and circuit board, new Dorman pan with drain, and refill with fresh Mercon V. Letting it drip drain for a few hours before I go pull the circuit board and old solenoids. Then I'll work on the accumulator but may need to buy bigger snap ring pliers.
 

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dwcopple

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Found it! Pulled 1-2 accumulator and sure enough, bottom spring is broken and gouged up the piston. Bore is good thank goodness. Gonna order a new piston. Now, the jmod eliminates the bottom spring, should I leave it out or order one?
 

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Wmac

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If there were not any slivers or chunks of mat'l on the magnet, then what you see is normal friction material wear from the bands. The plug indicates that its never been dropped and the filter probably never changed.

You will need to compress the accumulator just enough to take the tension of the snap ring. Insert the pliers tangs as far as possible, otherwise you risk snapping the ends off the tags. A bottle jack with a small deep socket works well for this. Otherwise a second set of hands, with strong arms to push the accumulator with a socket or hammer handle, etc.
 
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dwcopple

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If there were not any slivers or chunks of mat'l on the magnet, then what you see is normal friction material wear from the bands. The plug indicates that its never been dropped and the filter probably never changed.

You will need to compress the accumulator just enough to take the tension of the snap ring. Insert the pliers tangs as far as possible, otherwise you risk snapping the ends off the tags. A bottle jack with a small deep socket works well for this. Otherwise a second set of hands, with strong arms to push the accumulator with a socket or hammer handle, etc.
Look above. It's already done
 
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dwcopple

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I ordered the purple spring off ebay for $10. I also ordered new solenoids, new circuit board wiring, new filter with gasket, new Dorman pan with drain plug, new accumulator piston, new cap, ...$230 or so. It better last...;)
 
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dwcopple

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Got it all installed and buttoned up tonight and filled with fresh ATF. No more codes. Yet, shifting to "2" still instantly stalls the engine, WTF? Car shifts much better. Much better. Still gonna dial down the line pressure with the tuner. So far so good...pray for me.
 

Wmac

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Stalls on the 1-2 manual shift or when you place the shifter into 2nd and try to take-off from a standing start in 2nd?
 
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dwcopple

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If the selecter even sniffs "2" she dies instantly
 

Wmac

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So, if you take-off in drive, it shifts into all gears. If you take-off in 1st and manually shift 2nd, it stalls? Is that correct?
And if you move the selector from park to 2nd, it stalls?
 
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dwcopple

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So, if you take-off in drive, it shifts into all gears. If you take-off in 1st and manually shift 2nd, it stalls? Is that correct?
And if you move the selector from park to 2nd, it stalls?
Yep anything in selector 2 is a stall
 

Wmac

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Possible transmission range selector switch malfunction (mlps) or out of alignment? Wiring issue at the mlps?
Would be nice to have a shop manual that covers the 4r70w. Anyone?
 

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